Playstation as CD-player

lmao

yeah.. thats pretty messy.

the pot is wired like this;

playstation left signal | amplifier right input | ground from amp and playstation
playstation right signal | amplifier right input | ground from amp and playstation

I dont know if that helps, but this configuration works perfectly from my computer or mp3 player.
 
Hi

I have 1002s and some 5502s. At the moment
we have just had Australia Day and it was 41c (105.8 f) &
today is going to be 40c so gear gets a bit
of a beating temperature wise. I have found that the
1002s work quite well in the hot conditions but
the 5502 seem to be less reliable in the heat.
The chips underneath on the 5502s get very hot
and after a few cds start to mistrack. This is something
that in sub 29c temperatures does not happen.
Todays line voltage is 249volts & in times past
it used to reach 260v !! Could be a factor??
Anyone else has such problems?? Maybe try heatsinks
on the bottom of the player or something. I have a
copper dam between the power supply and the main board
and initially I felt this helped but now I am not so sure
with the 5502s. I have been experimenting with some
Altronic 0707/600/600ohm line transformers on the output
of the 5502s and like what I hear. Still the 1002s seem
more rugged and seem to behave better in the heat.

regards
AnthonyPT
 
Hi Anthony,

Strange that you'll have those problems with the 5500 series over the 1002, the first revision had greater problems with reading discs and were more prone to failure, at least for gaming.

Is the heat affecting the CD mech or something else, have you tried playing with the top cover off? Which chips is it?

The copper dam is that for RF shielding or for heat?, if for RF shielding is it earthed? and as far as heat is concerned I drilled more holes in case both in the bottom and the top for increased ventilation in the area where the PS sits. Wouldn't hurt increasing ventilation all around with your hotter weather.

Very interesting with the line transformers, does that allow you to drop the DC blocking caps?
 
playstation output stage FET

Hi, the output from DAC SCPH1002 playstation1 is inverted, so I wanted a second reverting for absolute fase and also for more output voltage. Here is a simple output stage with a FET. It sounds not bad...I use a 9V battery for each channel.
 

Attachments

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insert an RCA plug then measure. I think there is something special about these sockets i.e when you insert a plug you break the short. It's to do with the TV adaptor which has to convert stereo to a mono UHF signal.
Yep, the TV adapter only takes Left and Video, and since Right is shorted, the little strange SMD component detects it and send the right channel audio to the left as well.
 
Friday night I did a serious listening session with the recently published linear power supply in direct comparison with the stock SMPS.

The improvement is large! The main effect is that the soundstage becomes significantly broader, and as a result there is more space between the instruments, everything becomes more ordered and natural. In comparison to the SMPS, you are almost embraced by the music, which makes the sound impression fuller and much more involving.
Another obvious change is that the bass improves. It is much tighter and seems to go deeper.

Cheers,
Mick
 
After much ado, I finally got the linear PSU ready. It doesn't work!

The 7.6 and 3.5V (roughly) becomes 4.2 and 1.4V when I hook it to the PSX!? And I only get noise.

I have traced the leads of the PSU, looking for shorts and whatnots. Nothing. But I'm tired and a bit ticked off right now.

By the way, the schematic I posted some pages back comes from the dddac site, I believe. I just don't want to take credit for somebody else's work.
 
The trafo measures higher than it should, about 16VAC, 8VAC paralleled. (It's probably 1-2V lower with load.) Or about 18VDC and 9VDC after rectification. It's a 120VA trafo. So there's enough voltage and power.

Your old and new designs are basically identical save for the values of the components. I use another voltage regulator than the LM337. But it's the same except for the higher rating. I have also added a small 10uH inductor at the PSU output and a 0.1uF cap inside the PSX cabinet. None of those alters the overall design.

I did find an error on my part when I examined the PSU. Now everything should be fine. But it evidently isn't.

I just cannot understand this power drop, from 7.6V to 4.5V and 3.5V to a bit under 2V. I don't remember the exact values. Equally annoying is the noise.
 
I do not know what "Calculate the voltage drop over any serial resistor you have in your circuit" means.

Yes, the input voltage is higher. Much higher. Something like 16 and 8V. With load there should be at the very least 12 and 6V.

I measured the paralleled secondary after the after the 220Ohm (R2) resistor. I got 7-some volts . When I connect it to the PSX it drops to 5-some volts. That should still be enough. But the 3.5V drops to about 1.4V (previous figures are wrong). The voltage remains 1.4 even when I increase the voltage to 4.5 (after the regulator) without load.

I made a new PSU just in case. (I'm sure there's nothing wrong with my PSU. But...) This time I used only an LM317, resistor and potentiometer. No change. I still get 1.4V and 4.2V (again previous figures are wrong).

This is frustrating. It's frustrating because there's no logic behind this that I can see. I mean, the drop from 3.5 to 1.4 V comes after the voltage regulator. 7 or 5 V before the voltage regulator should still translate to 3.5V. At worst, if the voltage regulator needs 2V headroom, I should get at least 3V. Where the hell do those 1.5-2V go?
 
I paralleled the 220Ohm (R2) resistor with a 22Ohm one. Both are 5W. They still get hot.

Anyway, it meant I had to adjust the potentiometers. The 3.5V and 7.6V with load now become 1.5V and 10V!

There's also lots of noise coming from the PSX.

I do not get this at all.