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Old 23rd November 2005, 08:31 AM   #51
Mick_F is offline Mick_F  Germany
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My preferred option would always be to put the SMPS into a separate (metal) case, as this leads to optimum results in terms of RF and heat with not too much effort.

Relocation of the transport seems only to be an economic option if you recase the whole PS1 anyway.....

Mick
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Old 23rd November 2005, 08:34 AM   #52
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default thanks...

do you have a website?(oops, I just saw the link...) I'd be interested, and as I had stated previously, German enthusiasts seem way ahead on this sort of thing... particularly the PlayStation, and speakersa, and electronics, and.., and...

makes me want to learn another language just so I can gain some knowledge...
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Old 23rd November 2005, 08:37 AM   #53
Mick_F is offline Mick_F  Germany
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sure

But I have not yet finished the section on PSU recasing. I promise to publish it soon.....

Mick
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Old 23rd November 2005, 11:20 AM   #54
Mick_F is offline Mick_F  Germany
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Well, I have at least now made an update of the remote control section. Have a look

Mick
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Old 23rd November 2005, 12:18 PM   #55
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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Default OK here aremy pics

Mick_F - you are a fantastic photographer, those pictures on your website are crystal clear and sharp.

Mine are not but this post and a follow up will hopefully clarify how to make a simple screen from two halves of an ASKA brand copper RAM cooler.

The first picture (hopefully) shows the two halvesfacing the same way overlapping. You can slide one across the other to select the appropriate width. The aska brand is a nice fit but another brand I have is not quite so good.
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Old 23rd November 2005, 12:29 PM   #56
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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and here with the ram cooler 'screen' inserted behind the plastic screen and under the mains cable. Then extended to the full width of the depth of the chasis.

As has been stated be VERY CAREFUL that the screen does not contact the PSU board. A couple of grey plastic uprights from the base also help to keep it in position. It does not appear to move once the lid is on . (I shook one then reopened it) as I don't think there is any space left.

To clarify one last time. Looking down on the unit , from left to right we have :

1) PSU board 2) clear plastic shield 3) copper screen (RAM coolers) 4) laser transport.

The clear plastic screen helps hold the copper in place and insulates from the PSU. If it's damaged or absent do not attempt this

The copper screen is in contact with the transport metal casing underneath and on the side on the transport side. I measured 0Ohms using the multimeter
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Old 23rd November 2005, 03:08 PM   #57
Mick_F is offline Mick_F  Germany
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I think what you were doing will help indeed. That the shield is in contact with the metal frame is good as the latter is a ground plane.

Btw. you have the later version of PSU, the one which dissipates less heat.....

Mick
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Old 23rd November 2005, 05:01 PM   #58
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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thanks Mick , good to know I have the cooler PSU. I have raised the height of the greystationa little with some rubber feet. I was considering making some holes in the case underneath the PSU to encourage some convection cooling.

Anyone swapped any PSU caps (i.e for OSCONS)
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Old 23rd November 2005, 09:18 PM   #59
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And the other's a Mitsumi SR670? (Mine is)

Mine has a grey transformer. I don't know if it's just because I have the 120v edition or something else, because the rest of the layout seems the same. It heats a lot tho.


You want to make good pics?

You need lots of light and a good cam. Light often makesa big difference, even with the flash.
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Old 24th November 2005, 08:22 AM   #60
Mick_F is offline Mick_F  Germany
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The first version SMPS board is dark brown, has a grey transformer on it, and rectification is done by an IC instead of four diodes as in the later version.

See image attached.

Mick

PS: Yes, the light is the key
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