I use the tiny remote on Mick's page.
When I get around to add controls on the PSX, I will use this remote instead. It's the "Mp3 Card" remote at the top of the page. It's pretty ugly. But the biggest fault is that it has no pause button. That's annoying since the pause button might just be the most important button on a remote. But it's the only remote I know of that allows you to use controls and remote at the same time. It uses the memory card slot.
When I get around to add controls on the PSX, I will use this remote instead. It's the "Mp3 Card" remote at the top of the page. It's pretty ugly. But the biggest fault is that it has no pause button. That's annoying since the pause button might just be the most important button on a remote. But it's the only remote I know of that allows you to use controls and remote at the same time. It uses the memory card slot.
Hi
While good reports of mods to the SCPH1002
using Black Gates and Nitais and Polypropolene
caps are all the go on this thread, I was
reflecting on the "Picking Capacitors"
PDF articles by Jung and Marsh. I was thinking
that maybe a few bypass caps might add to the
quality of the brew. Of course caps have improved
since the article was written but none the less
the cost of these added bits will not break the bank!
In particular I refer to figure 17 a, b & c on page 8
of this Pdf file.
I have always been a Polystyrene fan. Largest styrene cap I have
is a 1mf example and a crazy potted military 0.5mf 100v
that is huge. (It would not fit in a Playstation)
Here is the URL:
http://waltjung.org/PDFs/Picking_Capacitors_2.pdf
Hope it can add to the quality of our Greystation outputs.
Regards
AnthonyPT
While good reports of mods to the SCPH1002
using Black Gates and Nitais and Polypropolene
caps are all the go on this thread, I was
reflecting on the "Picking Capacitors"
PDF articles by Jung and Marsh. I was thinking
that maybe a few bypass caps might add to the
quality of the brew. Of course caps have improved
since the article was written but none the less
the cost of these added bits will not break the bank!
In particular I refer to figure 17 a, b & c on page 8
of this Pdf file.
I have always been a Polystyrene fan. Largest styrene cap I have
is a 1mf example and a crazy potted military 0.5mf 100v
that is huge. (It would not fit in a Playstation)
Here is the URL:
http://waltjung.org/PDFs/Picking_Capacitors_2.pdf
Hope it can add to the quality of our Greystation outputs.
Regards
AnthonyPT
I just finished reading the thread, well most of it. Wow, that is a lot of information, and a couple of hours gone by. I also read Mike_F's website, also very informative. And I just wanted to say that you all have convinced me to get a PS1. A lot of my friends play video games and I'm sure atleast 1 of them has a PS1 laying around, if not I can probably buy SCPH 1001 at 1 of the many gaming stores around my house.
Thanks,
Josh
Thanks,
Josh
http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/AsahiKaseiMicrosystems/mXryztx.pdf
Is it the good DAC, I don't remember??
Seems like 10kOhm
Is it the good DAC, I don't remember??
Seems like 10kOhm
phn said:
Thanks phn and yes you did post earlier with that recomendation when pre-amps were being discussed.
Being a bit...no...a lot.. of a novice, I don't know if reducing the gain reduces the impedance?
I kinda got the inpression that some pre-amps don't necessarily allow impedance matching? Is that right?Anyway, what I'm really asking is what is the simplest way of reducing the impedance of the PS1 with minimal affect to the signal quality? (audio nirvana?)
I've been pointed in the direction of units like the Burson HDAM but that's a bit rich for my blood and anything DIY is always at the top of my list
Impedance is audio voodoo to me.
Don't take this to the bank, but opamps have very low impedance.
The way I understand it, the resistors, not the opamp, decide the impedance.
There are other things you might want to consider. FETs, like tubes, are linear. Opamps are not. If that makes a real-world difference, I wouldn't know. (Lots of things in audio seem to be based on philosophy.) The FET buffer looks nice, though. But then, FET designs always look nice. Opamp designs look ugly.
A tube stage could be fun, but complicated and expensive.
I brought up the opamp design (again) because it should be the easiest and cheapest alternative. Two opamps and six resistors and a 12V PSU.
Tube buffer Popup warning!
Don't take this to the bank, but opamps have very low impedance.
The way I understand it, the resistors, not the opamp, decide the impedance.
There are other things you might want to consider. FETs, like tubes, are linear. Opamps are not. If that makes a real-world difference, I wouldn't know. (Lots of things in audio seem to be based on philosophy.) The FET buffer looks nice, though. But then, FET designs always look nice. Opamp designs look ugly.
A tube stage could be fun, but complicated and expensive.
I brought up the opamp design (again) because it should be the easiest and cheapest alternative. Two opamps and six resistors and a 12V PSU.
Tube buffer Popup warning!
phn said:Impedance is audio voodoo to me.
Don't take this to the bank, but opamps have very low impedance.
The way I understand it, the resistors, not the opamp, decide the impedance.
There are other things you might want to consider. FETs, like tubes, are linear. Opamps are not. If that makes a real-world difference, I wouldn't know. (Lots of things in audio seem to be based on philosophy.) The FET buffer looks nice, though. But then, FET designs always look nice. Opamp designs look ugly.
A tube stage could be fun, but complicated and expensive.
I brought up the opamp design (again) because it should be the easiest and cheapest alternative. Two opamps and six resistors and a 12V PSU.
Tube buffer Popup warning!
I can't argue with that, it sure seems a simple solution and I can then remove my amps pot I suppose.
Voodoo.... yeh, I know what you mean..and I'm only a novice!
Thanks phn, I can only learn through knowledge and experience!