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Old 29th December 2005, 08:13 AM   #511
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Mick, about LEDs and lasers..

Quote:
Originally posted by Mick_F
Jives, I am happy to hear that the mod has brought some improvement.


Btw. I also have a Tivoli Model One in my kitchen.....



Mick
Re. Tivoli
Tivoli Model1 PSU hum fix / upgrade?
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Old 29th December 2005, 01:41 PM   #512
Dommi is offline Dommi  Germany
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mick_F



You dont have to. I will try again this evening, but as far as I remember, operation is completely the same with and without the connection. Do you reset the PS1 after every CD? (I dont).

I will also try the laser at 11.4 mV. Yesterday I tried 11.7 mV just because I had memorized the wrong value....

Mick
Hi Mick,
o.k. now i know my mistake. I've muddled the reset switch with the open switch. You are richt, if pin 7 is the reset switch we don't need it. Thanks.

Dommi
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Old 29th December 2005, 01:49 PM   #513
Dommi is offline Dommi  Germany
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mick_F
Dommi, is the 11.4 mV value given in the manual supplied with a new laser unit? Or where did you get it?

Does the lifetime of the laser depend on this voltage or to the laser bias (i.e. the voltage set by the lower right trimmer on the board?)

Mick
I messured it on 5 new delivered laserunits and it was always 11,4 mv. For info on your HP you should give the value for the long cable Version on the laserunit of 24,4mV.
The lifetime of the laser depend only from the gain at the unit,this is the intensity set of the laser. With the bias on the board you can adjust the distance from lense to CD. With the gain you can adjust how much is allowed the laser to follow waviness of the CD.
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Old 29th December 2005, 01:51 PM   #514
Dommi is offline Dommi  Germany
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Default Re: blue LED : who cares if it looks good ?

Quote:
Originally posted by jives11
Is the light from the blue LED visible when the CD lid is closed ? i.e do you get any light emerging from the edge of the lid ?

I don't know wether it makes any difference, but a vague blue glow coming from under the lid does sound very cool - like the hatch on some alien spacecraft opening.

But I do have a valve amp so a free light show is always a bonus in my book.
Hi back,
i have an other Case, whan the lid is closed there is noch light visible outside.

Dommi
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Old 29th December 2005, 01:57 PM   #515
Dommi is offline Dommi  Germany
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mick_F
I also start to understand now what the function of the strange "thing" is. If no plug is inserted into the RCA jack of the right channel, there is a short between the two solder tags. This short is seen by the "thing" (and the desoldered capacitor may belong to its perifery) and then it leads a mixed L+R signal to the left RCA jack.

Mick

Hi,
the signal is not mixed, is Mono i think
Dommi
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Old 29th December 2005, 02:09 PM   #516
Dommi is offline Dommi  Germany
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@ Mick

i have a question about your information at your HP.

< The corner frequency (-3 dB point) is calculated according to f = 1/(2 x Pi x R x C), where R and C are the values of the ground resistor and DC blocker cap, respectively. The values used here yield a f=2.2 Hz. >

I think you have a little mistake there. If i now it right, for change the corner frequency the cap and the resistor have to be in row and both parallel to the rca jacks. In our config the cap is in row to rca but the resistor is parallel. Or im totaly wrong ??

Regards Dommi
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Old 29th December 2005, 03:02 PM   #517
Mick_F is offline Mick_F  Germany
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Hi Dommi,

the serial cap and resistor to ground is a classical high-pass filter. The equation is valid here too.

Ciao,
Mick
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No statement here.
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Old 29th December 2005, 04:47 PM   #518
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dommi



Hi,
the signal is not mixed, is Mono i think
Dommi
Yes thats right.

I have the special UHF multiplexer connector which this device is designed for. If you have an old TV set with no scart (yipee!) and no composite video input, then the only way to get the sound and picture from your PSX game on your old TV is to combine the video and audio data into a single UHF signal, just like used to come down from the aerial. The PSX included a very odd looking connector which had 2 RCA connectors - one for the Composite video and one for the Left Audio Signal, and one 2.5mm jack from a single small box. These were contained in a small box and the 2.5mm jack was a power connection which mates with the tiny hole between the composite video and left audio RCA connectors (yes there is power down that hole !).
In order that any right channel audio was included in the mix to the mono UHF signal, the special device and circuit must downmix both l + R into a single mono signal, which the special copnnector combines with the composite video to give UHF.

Of course all of this is completely unneccesary if your TV set has either composite video + audio inputs (most now do) or scart (which includes these in it's million pins )
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Old 30th December 2005, 12:49 PM   #519
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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Default SCPH1002 measured response

Check out here for scope analysis of the Playstation output

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...197#post802197
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Old 30th December 2005, 01:16 PM   #520
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This is with 1kHz -60 dB

Both channels look equal.

Click the image to open in full size.
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