Playstation as CD-player - Page 5

DragonMaster · 20th November 2005, 08:28 PM

For the PSU, it needs a multi-wire cable, but is it preferable if it has a shield?

Mick_F · 21st November 2005, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by DragonMaster
For the PSU, it needs a multi-wire cable, but is it preferable if it has a shield?

The one I use now has no shield and it works fine.

Mick

jives11 · 22nd November 2005, 03:27 PM

I have read some posts which discuss providing an RF 'screen' around the PSU (assuming you leave it in the chasis).

Does anyone have a view on how enveloping of the PSU a screen would have to be ? Is a simple copper 'wall' between the PSU and laser assembly sufficient ? I have seen gear where brass or copper 'walls' seperate sections, but do not cover the sections.

I found that an old copper RAM cooler (as used in PC overclocking) fits nicely between the clear plastic screen and the assembly. discard the clips and put the two sides facing you the same way, overlapped

You need to be careful, but the plastic screen supports the copper screen and also provides some insulation. I assume the clear plastic screen is to deflect heat in the PSone, or maybe deflect fuse shrapnel in case of a catastrophic fuse failure

You can overlap the two sides of the RAM cooler the same way and 'telescope' from the front to back of the grey box, under the supply cables from PSU to board.

Difficult to explain, needs a diagram but imagine a 20mm high wall of 1mm copper from from to back along the divide between the PSU and laser.

Nanook · 22nd November 2005, 05:35 PM

yes, a shield made of any easy to bend metal (preferably a good conductor but most metals are good at this), and tie it to ground. That's it.

BUT : BE CAREFULL! it should not come anywhere near any voltages and certainly not the input AC!.

Take a lid off of almost any digital component of quality and it will have a shield.

If unsure or uncomfortable, please do not do this yourself, get a friendly tech friend or electrician to do it for you.

Mick_F · 23rd November 2005, 07:54 AM

But you still have the heat problem then!

Mick

Nanook · 23rd November 2005, 08:09 AM

RF noise, no thermal shielding... ok, make a 2 layer shield with a space to allow heat to convect from between them and vent the enclosure as well.

Mick_F · 23rd November 2005, 08:13 AM

But dont do this with the first version SMPS.....

Nanook · 23rd November 2005, 08:20 AM

why not? If heat is a problem and RF is as well, please explain to me why one couldn't do it? . I can rebox the thing (I have a 1001) in an Aluminium case from an old car amp, it will fit....and just use tha whole amp case as a shield and drill some holes in the top so that heat has someplace to convect to ....

Any further insight?

Mick_F · 23rd November 2005, 08:23 AM

I was referring to the different versions of SPMS used for the PS1. The very first versions came with a SMPS that dissipates quite a lot of heat. Later versions came with a Nichicon SMPS that dissipates 3W less of power. With the latter one you can try to leave it in the original place and maybe even shield it, but I wouldnt recommend to do so with the first version

Mick

Nanook · 23rd November 2005, 08:25 AM

so the need to change the orientation or location of the the transport vs. the power supply, or remove the power supply completely from the same box , and shield it for rf?

20th November 2005, 08:28 PM	#41
DragonMaster diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Montreal	For the PSU, it needs a multi-wire cable, but is it preferable if it has a shield? __________________ Antoine http://dmsaudio.ca/

22nd November 2005, 03:27 PM	#43
jives11 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Hampshire	simple shield ? I have read some posts which discuss providing an RF 'screen' around the PSU (assuming you leave it in the chasis). Does anyone have a view on how enveloping of the PSU a screen would have to be ? Is a simple copper 'wall' between the PSU and laser assembly sufficient ? I have seen gear where brass or copper 'walls' seperate sections, but do not cover the sections. I found that an old copper RAM cooler (as used in PC overclocking) fits nicely between the clear plastic screen and the assembly. discard the clips and put the two sides facing you the same way, overlapped You need to be careful, but the plastic screen supports the copper screen and also provides some insulation. I assume the clear plastic screen is to deflect heat in the PSone, or maybe deflect fuse shrapnel in case of a catastrophic fuse failure You can overlap the two sides of the RAM cooler the same way and 'telescope' from the front to back of the grey box, under the supply cables from PSU to board. Difficult to explain, needs a diagram but imagine a 20mm high wall of 1mm copper from from to back along the divide between the PSU and laser.

22nd November 2005, 05:35 PM	#44
Nanook diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Chinook Country.Alberta	more correctly we could call it a "Farady cage" yes, a shield made of any easy to bend metal (preferably a good conductor but most metals are good at this), and tie it to ground. That's it. BUT : BE CAREFULL! it should not come anywhere near any voltages and certainly not the input AC!. Take a lid off of almost any digital component of quality and it will have a shield. If unsure or uncomfortable, please do not do this yourself, get a friendly tech friend or electrician to do it for you. __________________ stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane."

23rd November 2005, 08:13 AM	#47
Mick_F diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Cologne	But dont do this with the first version SMPS..... __________________ No statement here.

23rd November 2005, 08:20 AM	#48
Nanook diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Chinook Country.Alberta	not trying tro be a pain,But... why not? If heat is a problem and RF is as well, please explain to me why one couldn't do it? . I can rebox the thing (I have a 1001) in an Aluminium case from an old car amp, it will fit....and just use tha whole amp case as a shield and drill some holes in the top so that heat has someplace to convect to .... Any further insight? __________________ stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane."


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

23rd November 2005, 07:54 AM	#45
Mick_F diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Cologne	But you still have the heat problem then! Mick

23rd November 2005, 08:23 AM	#49
Mick_F diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Cologne	I was referring to the different versions of SPMS used for the PS1. The very first versions came with a SMPS that dissipates quite a lot of heat. Later versions came with a Nichicon SMPS that dissipates 3W less of power. With the latter one you can try to leave it in the original place and maybe even shield it, but I wouldnt recommend to do so with the first version Mick __________________ No statement here.

23rd November 2005, 08:25 AM	#50
Nanook diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Chinook Country.Alberta	point taken... so the need to change the orientation or location of the the transport vs. the power supply, or remove the power supply completely from the same box , and shield it for rf? __________________ stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane."

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Playstation CD Player	Beau	Digital Source	2	19th March 2004 07:59 PM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read