A lot of equipment over the years looked cool, but didn't play cool. The sound was mesmerizing, but completely flat, no any 3D sound with deep separation.
My first revelation came when I connected something like a very good Denon with good wires, but it still played just as flat. Unlike PS1, or Rega. I really liked Rega at the time, both the sound and design, just like Cyrus. There were many good devices, but even more that had nothing to do with good sound.
Regarding the old Philips, you can actually get good sound from them, but from models of the more recent 7*-8* series.
Everything is quite relative. But when you have a sensitive system with good wires, you can convince that some old Tops are quite meager at this time. Yes, they play well, but it's educational when you start going deeper with them and realize that's their ceiling. All. Unlike the same PS1. How much you put into it, that's how it plays. It's weird as hell, but it's true. This is a upgrading treasure. Of course, also up to the level of limitation. But he is quite tall.
The irony is that quite a few early CD players used R2R decoders, but these were later considered not accurate enough.
By the way, it was noticed that increasing the input HV capacitance neutralizes the influence of the power cable. That is, you begin to hear not the power cable, but the capacitor presentation itself. So I would not recommend greatly increasing the capacity, since you are depriving yourself of the pleasure of using different power cables.
If laser generally reads normally, but sometimes gets off track, try increasing the gain voltage (from 1.7V to 1.75-1.78V) with same offset on 1.82-1.85V.
Overall I would stick to a slightly higher gain 1.73-1.75V.
Also, for those who want to equalize the tonal balance, I recommend changing the cross-section at the power input from IEC to power supply board. It is recommended to use at least 20AWG conductors for neutral balance. To achieve lower tonal balance (downward bias) with extended bass and lower mids, 16AWG is recommended.
Overall I would stick to a slightly higher gain 1.73-1.75V.
Also, for those who want to equalize the tonal balance, I recommend changing the cross-section at the power input from IEC to power supply board. It is recommended to use at least 20AWG conductors for neutral balance. To achieve lower tonal balance (downward bias) with extended bass and lower mids, 16AWG is recommended.
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Short list of modifications:
- Case painted matte black
- Chassis coated with copper foil for improved shielding
- The power supply casing is covered with copper foil and additionally grounded to the main shield
- The input socket was replaced with Furutech copper gold plated
- Power wires replaced with Neotech UP-OCC multistrand copper and copper silver plated wire, also Neotech UP-OCC copper solid core wire
- The buffer cap has been replaced with Mundorf MLytic, also bypassed with Mundorf Silver-Gold cap
- The power supply has been upgraded with capacitors of the following series: Wima MKP10, Nichicon KA, Nichicon ES Muse.
- Factory fuse replaced with audio grade fuse
- Factory audio video connectors removed
- The analogue part of the output has been removed
- Signal wiring replaced with Neotech UP-OCC silver solid core wire
- Blocking capacitors have been replaced with Mundorf Silver-Gold cap
- RCA Connectors replaced with KLE Innovations
- Kiwame resistors installed
- Installed Duelund ground wire
- The remote control transmitter is integrated into the case
- Decorative front panel installed
- Damping supports replaced
- The remote control has been modified
