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Old 29th May 2012, 02:37 AM   #2711
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What a long thread! Seems like the theme of this thread is to replace the analog output stage with better design and parts, but my question is, why not bypass the D/A converter all together? I'm not sure if this link has been posted on this thread, but is the main design goal here to obtain a good analog audio output or use your own high quality DAC?

The I2S audio lines and the master clock line can be driven longer distance with a differential line driver, like some form of RS485 transmitter or a differential line driver IC for transmission of I2S over something like CAT5. It wouldn't add too much jitter, would it?
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Old 29th May 2012, 07:02 PM   #2712
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"the main design goal here to obtain a good analog audio output". The Sony DAC chip is what makes the Sony PS-1 (mdl 1001) so special.
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Old 29th May 2012, 09:47 PM   #2713
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I see. So Sony used a really good quality chip then? Better than the Cirrus Logic CS43122?
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Old 29th May 2012, 09:49 PM   #2714
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default a positive response and comments.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelphoto View Post
Would someone PLEASE respond to to the last two post with some positive input. We are late to the party but the PS 1 is still alive.
Guys,

I am far from the true experts here, but I have used these Greystations off and on for the past 4 or 5 years. I currently have 10 (not looking to sell them). I can make a few positive comments regarding these PS1 used as a cd player:
  • they are very robustly built
  • they are easy to modify without going over the deep end
  • with very simple mods they sound very good
  • they are not "transparent" compared to th big $ units, but better than almost every midfi product out there
  • with a tune-up they can read almost every disc available (even burnt ones)

And here are a few negatives:
  • the enclosure is very poor
  • there is no direct visual interface, so knowing where you are at or what you are doing can be a PITA
  • on the earliest versions (SCHP100X) the power supply is on the LHS. As the laser gets towards the end of the disc, the heat of the power supply can have a negative effect
  • besides being a poor enclosure, it is FUGLY

pixelphoto, emuman100:
Quote:
"the main design goal here to obtain a good analog audio output". The Sony DAC chip is what makes the Sony PS-1 (mdl 1001) so special.
Yes!
Quote:
I see. So Sony used a really good quality chip then? Better than the Cirrus Logic CS43122?
I can't say strictly that the chip is better, but I have had experience to speak (in person) to a fellow tinkerer who owns a Wadia transport/DAC. His feelings are that with the minimal effort required to get great sound out of these, that it is the same sonic league as the Wadia pair.


emmbee:
Quote:
I've been listening to to my PS1 unmodified for a while now and I really like it. I have a 1001. I've been practicing my soldering skill and am now ready to do the output replacement. I do have a few questions. There seems to some differing opinions as to using the 3.3 or 4.5 caps for the DC blocking. What is considered the best? Also what's the best place to order caps. The wima's seem to be mostly available overseas. I'm in the US. I don't have the skills to make a linear power supply. Are there any over the counter one I could buy? Could I hire a skilled modder to make me one?
I think a good linear supply can be had pretty easily. Look at a linear supply with dual voltages. I have one that has 5VDC and 12VDC out. I've never used it, but it should be more than capable of meeting the requirements. You can use ferrite beads on each leg of the power supply as it connects to the other boards. If you like a voltage regulator (well actually 2) could be built on a small board or purchased.

There are many suppliers of good parts. One that has a lot of good audio stuff is partsconnexion. (I am in no way affiliated to any supply business ). I know Mouser and Digikey and perhaps PartsExpress would be pretty good. Also check out Solen

Hope that helps. As for more technical questions, I defer to others.
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Last edited by Nanook; 29th May 2012 at 09:53 PM. Reason: added a comment, Sony chip vs Cirrus
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Old 31st May 2012, 06:50 AM   #2715
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Hi Nanook, thank you for your response. I discovered the PS-1 (1001) a few months ago and now have three. I've become a little obsessed with the whole thing. All three work and have been tuned. I'm now moding the output stage of the oldest one (my test bed) and waiting for caps and resistors to finish that part. I've also mounted a two prong IEC jack (comments) and drilled vent holes over the PS location.
I'm not trained in electronics and don't understand the finer details; but I have taught myself to solder and desolder and I can follow instruction.
I would like to change the RCA's for better quality ones but am not entirely sure how to. Is this correct?: Solder caps (+) to DAC, solder caps (-) to wire, solder wire to replacement RCA's (ignoring the old RCA's), solder resistors. Must I still cut the traces for the old RCA's?


Regards,
Marvin
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Old 31st May 2012, 07:44 AM   #2716
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Default "No direct visual interface"

Hi Nanook,

Thanks for the informative piece on the PS1.
I really just wanted to remind you that you can connect an LCD screen to the video output of the PS!. This then will let you view PS1 status, current track (number) and total number of tracks. It is better than nothing. I use a screen designed for use in a car.. very cheap and about 4" by 3". You need a 12VDC supply which I managed to embed in my PS1 modified chassis.

George
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Old 31st May 2012, 04:34 PM   #2717
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default no direct visual interface...and is this corrct?

georgebrooke: Yes I am aware that this can be done. I was using the example of a stock set-up.

pixelphoto: for the RCA jacks I wouls take the existing ones out and replace with better ones. That will give you more space on the back panel. I use my PS1 without any mods except the capacitor "leg lift", so no muting caps. But basically (AFAIK) you gave it correct.
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Old 3rd June 2012, 08:02 AM   #2718
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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I have copied this from the thread on Swap Meet as it is likely to have wider interest. It increases the output in case you are using a passive pre.

EDIT: Just realised I saved the pic from Audio1st's post. The Dac op-amp is located under the main board (so you have to dismantle the whole thing (again). Remove the resistors marked 183 and replace with 10k for both. I managed to solder two qtr watt metal fim resistors in there by keeping the leads very short. You will note that the adjacent pads are linked which gives you more room to solder the non-SMD resistors. You will be amazed by the difference (well I was anyway)

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 3rd June 2012, 09:43 AM   #2719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puffin View Post
I have copied this from the thread on Swap Meet as it is likely to have wider interest. It increases the output in case you are using a passive pre.

EDIT: Just realised I saved the pic from Audio1st's post. The Dac op-amp is located under the main board (so you have to dismantle the whole thing (again). Remove the resistors marked 183 and replace with 10k for both. I managed to solder two qtr watt metal fim resistors in there by keeping the leads very short. You will note that the adjacent pads are linked which gives you more room to solder the non-SMD resistors. You will be amazed by the difference (well I was anyway)

Click the image to open in full size.
It must be something that I am drinking ... I stared at your diagram but could only see components marked EB1 ... then the penny dropped. Will pursue as soon as new glasses arrive
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Old 3rd June 2012, 12:09 PM   #2720
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgebrooke View Post
It must be something that I am drinking ... I stared at your diagram but could only see components marked EB1 ... then the penny dropped. Will pursue as soon as new glasses arrive
Ha ha, let us know how you get on.

Rob.
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