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Old 7th March 2012, 04:17 PM   #2691
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I hope its just as good, i feel cheated!
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Old 8th March 2012, 09:43 PM   #2692
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default Don't feel cheated.

BNWaddict: AFAIK the SCHP 1000/1001/1002/1003 are essentially the same thing, just for different markets (utilizing different video standards and power supply input voltages). I'm willing to accept that I'm wrong....

Blink: beautifully built. I suspect it sounds outstanding! I wonder if you've tried any dampening material since the photos were taken?

The power supplies that these things use is not great, but could be worse. I "discovered" by accident with some devices that dropping the supply voltage slightly can alter the sound dramatically. The noise floor disappears. Then use a small amplifier or transformer to step up the voltage. As long as the transformers are shielded with mu-metal (magentic and electric shielding) then there should be no problem. Mu-metal is pretty expensive, but so little would be required, it would be worth it. It is available as a foil. I think a 4" X 18" piece, .004" thick is under USD$20

note: I have not tried using transformers or the mu-metal on any of my Greystations, and cannot comment on the outcome , but my experience suggests that these additions would work well. If electrical shielding is only required, then copper foil is more than adequate.

I think I'll make a wooden enclosure for one of mine. If it is good enough for Bernard Salabert (PHY handmade single driver loudspeaker maker), it's good enough for me . If I ever get the capability to do some precision construction, I'd love to try an enclose such as Blink's. It does seem to me that Rega may have used these mechanism (or similar) for their cd players and transports. The more I think about audio/video playback, the more I am convinced that well built and implemented modular design consisting of the transport and DAC is the way to go. I wonder if any have hacked a PS3 and to what effect?

Flikoman:Please, can you repost your attachments so they can be opened up larger?
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Last edited by Nanook; 8th March 2012 at 09:45 PM. Reason: asked Flikoman to repost his images so they can be opened larger...
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Old 9th March 2012, 06:08 AM   #2693
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I hope the pictures will be OK this time.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

In the meantime, I've moved shunt regulator to another place because of electromagnetic field and high peak voltages of PSU.

Local decoupling of DAC is very important (notice MLCC & MKT capacitors) and resistor between DAC and output capacitor (220R will be enough). DAC needs this resistor when driving capacitive load.

Shunt regulator with CCS is the ultimate mod/tweak and I recommend it to everyone.
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Old 23rd March 2012, 03:37 PM   #2694
ceteras is offline ceteras  Romania
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Default transport transplant?

Anybody ever tried to adapt a transport from another cd-player to a PS1?
I believe the plastic transport in these old machines are their weakest point (they sure are in mine), and unfortunately I can't trust the vendors of cheap KSM440's on ebay.
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Old 23rd March 2012, 07:52 PM   #2695
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default A-dapta-transport and images.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flikoman View Post
I hope the pictures will be OK this time.

In the meantime, I've moved shunt regulator to another place because of electromagnetic field and high peak voltages of PSU.

Local decoupling of DAC is very important (notice MLCC & MKT capacitors) and resistor between DAC and output capacitor (220R will be enough). DAC needs this resistor when driving capacitive load.

Shunt regulator with CCS is the ultimate mod/tweak and I recommend it to everyone.
Flikoman, thank you for the larger images. At least I can see them now

Quote:
Originally Posted by ceteras View Post
Anybody ever tried to adapt a transport from another cd-player to a PS1?
I believe the plastic transport in these old machines are their weakest point (they sure are in mine), and unfortunately I can't trust the vendors of cheap KSM440's on ebay.
ceteras: Ive never really had any problems with any of mine. There has to be a means to either get something better or improve the stock ones. I know that many of the Sony transports look cheap but actually work very well, even when worn. What is the problem with yours?
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Old 23rd March 2012, 09:04 PM   #2696
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No problem Nanook.

PS1 is fenomenal.
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Old 23rd March 2012, 10:11 PM   #2697
ceteras is offline ceteras  Romania
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Nanook, my PS1 skips badly even with commercial CD's, and even after I've adjusted the laser trim pot, twice. That's why I don't trust the old plastics, but I'm going to give it another try, perhaps I'll get some newer versions just for the laser (SCPH102 or 9002).
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Old 24th March 2012, 04:59 PM   #2698
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default a couple of suggestions....

Quote:
Originally Posted by ceteras View Post
Nanook, my PS1 skips badly even with commercial CD's, and even after I've adjusted the laser trim pot, twice. That's why I don't trust the old plastics, but I'm going to give it another try, perhaps I'll get some newer versions just for the laser (SCPH1002 or 9002).
The lasers are orientated in different directions in the various models of GreyStations. This is one of the shortcomings of the the SCHP-100X ones. The power supply and laser get in close proximity of one another and the heat from the power supply can be an issue.

I'd have to take a couple apart, but to change the laser you may have to create longer wiring to join the two. Can't remember if there is a ribbon cable involved or not (that would be the real issue I guess). Any new transport needs to use the same instruction set as the old one, regardless of what mechanism is used.

If you are wanting to make a new enclosure, then really no issue at all (AFAIK).
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Old 24th March 2012, 05:35 PM   #2699
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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I got three different non-SCHP-100X units along with the real thing from a multi-unit eBay sale ($9.00). Tore them all apart and couldn't find anything that was usable. There is a positioning post (that could be cut) on one end of all the others that fits into a recess on the metal frame. They all would require new wiring.

I even found one that used the same plugs. The laser would cycle up and down at turn-on, but nothing would respond to the remote. If I ever develop a problem I'll just look for a new 100x
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Old 21st April 2012, 02:26 PM   #2700
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Exclamation if your lens starts...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ceteras View Post
Thanks for the suggestions & images.
I didn't find the time for modding, I've had some trouble with the laser unit.
It started skipping heavily with commercial CD's, so I've raised it to 11.9 (it was at 10mV initially).
Then I could listen to a CD-R audio, up to the last song, when it started skipping just a little. Playing the same CD-R from the beginning, it skipped badly again, so I took it to 13.5mV.
This time it played well throughout the CD, but I wonder how much time this laser unit has got left, it seems to go worse and worse.
if your lens starts skipping the problem is only with sledg rails.the white plastic on aluminium which touches the rail track ,it loses its vertical alignment by friction and time so PLSASE ...NEVER TOUCH THE POTENTIOMETER its very delicate and risky and it is only for laser FOCUS .ALWAYS use the original SONY rated dark ink blue color disc. it SPINS GEOMETRICALLY FLAT and ACCURATE
ENHANCING MOTOR PERFORMANCE !!!!!. OTHER DISCS WOBBLES
CAUSES LASER TO LOSE ITS- - FOCUS-- WHICH IS CONTROLLED
BY THE POTENTIOMETER. if the pot gets damage REPLACE laser unit .
HA..HA..HA..[/IMG]

Last edited by Pano; 21st April 2012 at 02:31 PM. Reason: bad image link
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