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Old 5th December 2005, 07:50 AM   #231
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default er diodes and caps...

I guess I had LED on the mind...therefore diode stuck in my head..

Any comments on the preferred method for the additional addition of light noise? white or blue, with the sled, or stationary?

As far as power supplies, do you think it is a linear power supply or the higher current that is responsible for the effects reported ?
The use of a higher current capable power supplies is a well known"tweak" for many devices including DACs and amplifiers of most types within limits.

The present state of my PS is out of the box, safety disabled, jumpers between cap pads as per dragonmaster.
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Old 5th December 2005, 09:33 AM   #232
back is offline back  Greece
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dommi psu means power supply unit.

nanook i think both are responsible.

the higher current helps and the cleaner voltage helps.
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Old 5th December 2005, 09:52 AM   #233
Mick_F is offline Mick_F  Germany
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Quote:
Originally posted by jives11


good question. I recall that most of the old Marantz CD players used around 100uF DC blocker . I recall that lower than this there was some bass rolloff ? maybe I'm wrong.

What is the diameter of 10uF polyester ? You may find there is not enough height due to the metal "roof" that has the CD trasport on top.

It depends on the resistor you are using in combination with the cap. The formula for the -3dB point is 1/(2*Pi*R*C). If the resistor is very small you should use a large capacity.

I think there are no 100 uF polyester caps. The highest value I know of this type is 4.7uF. The size is about 6 by 6 mm and about 10 mm height. If you combine it with a 22k ground resistor you have a cutoff frequency of 1.5 Hz.

Mick
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Old 6th December 2005, 02:41 AM   #234
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Hi back,

your link seems interesting but I don't know if I'll just go with LM338s in my case. It seems a bit complicated to work with it, especially the multiple transformers.
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Old 6th December 2005, 06:38 AM   #235
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mick_F



It depends on the resistor you are using in combination with the cap. The formula for the -3dB point is 1/(2*Pi*R*C). If the resistor is very small you should use a large capacity.

I think there are no 100 uF polyester caps. The highest value I know of this type is 4.7uF. The size is about 6 by 6 mm and about 10 mm height. If you combine it with a 22k ground resistor you have a cutoff frequency of 1.5 Hz.

Mick

Thanks Mick

So what would the resistance to ground be in the case where we just removed the 6 caps ?

With these caps a) I had these caps in my parts bin and b) the signal goes through 4 of them up stream in the preamp anyway.

below is a picture showing that a) my photography is getting slightly better but b) my soldering shakes have taken there toll on the poor old saftey switch at the top still works though !
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File Type: jpg ps1.jpg (41.9 KB, 1656 views)
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Old 6th December 2005, 06:48 AM   #236
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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Default SM PSU mods ?

Backs PSU mods are very interesting BUT , I'd like to keep the form factor of the unit "as is" with 250v AC directly to the unit. Which means sticking with the internal Switch mode.

Has anyone tried modding it ? I wondered if better caps (OSCONS) might lower the noise level while retaining the high current.

I also wondered if there is a way to increase the attenuation on the interconnect cable between the two boards. Mine has 2 ferrite cores, but is there a way if placing ferrite beads around each wire ? hard to disassemble the interconnect, can you get split beads which glue together around a cable which is already terminated for example ?
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Old 6th December 2005, 08:35 AM   #237
Dommi is offline Dommi  Germany
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Hy Jives,
why you don't connect the caps direkt to the RCA ? The muting stage semms to be a bottleneck.

I don't know if i understood you right, but i modified the original PSU. I soldered out all caps and renewed them by Mundorf caps. Than i renewed the Diodes by faster ones.
BR Dommi
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Old 6th December 2005, 08:48 AM   #238
Dommi is offline Dommi  Germany
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Hy @ all,
you know about my fake with the caps C424 and C423.
Now my question. Is it possible that whan i remove the caps C423 and C424 the load for the AVM is an other and therefore it sounds different ?
I ask because im not the only one who heard a difference between the old an new caps
And some of them argued (?? ) with the total load change of the AVM.
I hope you can follow my english

regards Dommi
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Old 6th December 2005, 12:30 PM   #239
back is offline back  Greece
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Default Re: SM PSU mods ?

Quote:
Originally posted by DragonMaster
Hi back,

your link seems interesting but I don't know if I'll just go with LM338s in my case. It seems a bit complicated to work with it, especially the multiple transformers.

hi the LM338 is the way to go.
i couldn`t find that`s why i did all that but 5A is enough.
the one i made delivers 7A.
use a transformer 2 X 12 volt and use one winding for each voltage.


Quote:
Originally posted by jives11
Backs PSU mods are very interesting BUT , I'd like to keep the form factor of the unit "as is" with 250v AC directly to the unit. Which means sticking with the internal Switch mode.

Has anyone tried modding it ? I wondered if better caps (OSCONS) might lower the noise level while retaining the high current.

I also wondered if there is a way to increase the attenuation on the interconnect cable between the two boards. Mine has 2 ferrite cores, but is there a way if placing ferrite beads around each wire ? hard to disassemble the interconnect, can you get split beads which glue together around a cable which is already terminated for example ?

jives 11 i don`t understand who is stoping you from putting the new psu in the same box with the PS1 and run only one cable to the wall.
one new heavy box is needed anyway.
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Old 6th December 2005, 03:26 PM   #240
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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Default Re: Re: SM PSU mods ?

Quote:
Originally posted by back


jives 11 i don`t understand who is stoping you from putting the new psu in the same box with the PS1 and run only one cable to the wall.
one new heavy box is needed anyway.
Thanks back. I assumed that a linear PSU capable of supplying the current equal to the Switched Mode would be physically too big to fit in the PSone case, in the cavity left by the old PSU (transformer size etc)

I don't want to use an external DC supply (brick/wallwart style) as I don't really have the space.
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