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#2381 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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I just found a 9001 my boys had long forgotten about. Luckily they had a converter cord that went to RCA. I must say I am very impressed with it. Never would have thought I would be using a PS 1 as a CD player. Anybody else using a 9001?
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#2382 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Portugal
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Hi karlton
You have a "wrong" model,check this site : SCPH-1002 :: playfidelity There are significant differences in the sound between different models,if you like the sound of the one you have now it's ok. Long time ago I had nothing but possibly scph-9002?,at the time I didn't play much music though and to be honest it didn't sound good at all.It was then replaced with the cheapest Sony cd player at the time,and the improvement was huge.
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xxx I should correct my spelling xxx |
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#2383 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
But I don't expect too much improvement in sound quality.
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Regards Thomas |
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#2384 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sarasota, Florida
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Yes it is only the US model #1001 that is believed to be good enough to bother with. However some of the later PS1's do have a superior transport/laser. Can't remember what the model # is for them. The model #'s can be confusing since they are different for US, Europe, Asia, etc.
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#2385 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Well, the 1001/2 and the 5000 models share the same DAC, so modding the output stage will have the same results.
Using another newer transport will require some modding also to fit! To Tolu, I could try to design one to fit on the PS case, but keep in mind that Mick strongly suggested that it should be outside! Regarding the grounds again, do you think I can use a ground plane for all of the circuit, or at least for the rectifiers part (msr860) I shouldn't use the same, or abandon completely the idea and return to separate signals? |
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#2386 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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You can check it @ any used games stores,Craigslist. I bought mine on a garage sales last summer.you need to buy a remote control too, I got mine on a pawnshop near ur place.
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#2387 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Hi,
I have been modifying PlayStation SCPH-1002 models by making the changes Mick suggested and connecting the DAC directly to the phono outputs via an R-C network (again according to Mick). I now have a batch of these machines, all cleaned and with adjusted lasers and with IR remote controls. I have been providing them to friends and family, but I am now advertising them on eBay for £50 plus postage. If anyone is interested please contact me. I can also make these mode to your machines if you like. |
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#2388 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
I don't know how hot the supply will get. But I don't think that the 10 or 15 Watt will be such a big issue. You can drill some additional holes in the top of the case. The rest of the PS1 is the more heat releasing part. I am not the ground plane guru but I would divide the drive circuit from the audio circuit.
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Regards Thomas |
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#2389 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
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Can it be done? I have looked several times at Mike diagram of the upgraded P/S for the PS1. Quite frankly it is beyond my ability (and several others as well, if truth be know). But can the PS1 be run from a suitable battery supply that are set to the 7.6 and 3.6 voltages. Are these voltages mandatary or can there be a +/- to them without any harmfull or for that matter audiable affects.
Cheers and thanks for any replies
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tabarddn |
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#2390 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Portugal
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Hi
Battery supply is Ok but it really needs to be regulated and the battery must be relatively big,that means more or less the same type of circuit as you have seen at Mikes site,except the diode bridge and transformer. It isn't really that difficult,if you put some time into it ,I believe you could make it.But there are still some safety issues even with the batteries(short circuit,fire ).
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xxx I should correct my spelling xxx |
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