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#2341 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Brisbane QLD
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MikeNZ,
Short answer is 2.2uF or 3.3uF caps and 22K resistors. Long answer is, um, search on Google for terms like "high pass filter", "output impedance", "line stage output impedance", wikipedia is good too. It just goes on and on, there is no simple answer that is less than a page or 2 or 4 long, unless someone else here can do it... |
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#2342 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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What watt rating should the 22k resistors be? I too am performing Mick F's output stage mod.
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#2343 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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I determined my amplifier (no-preamp) to have a 50K ohm input impedence. What would the ideal capacitor and resistor specs be for my configuration?
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#2344 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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I've done the calcualtions on Mick's site and have decided to use 0.47uf 50v capacitors and a 100k resistors for the RCA output stage.
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#2345 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Has anybody tried output transformers? I have a pair spare so may give that a whirl.
Secondly, if one has a DC blocking cap in the preamp, can you just omit the cap in the PS1 and just have the 22k resistor? Thanks. - John |
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#2346 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
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Output transformers have been discussed further up this thread. If you have suitable transformers it is a "go for". (Have not tried it myself.)
__________________
Thanx! |
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#2347 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Thanks - just starting to go through the thread from scratch again after dallying around with some other projects for a while.
If I leave out the DC blocking caps from the output of the mods (my pre-amp already has them installed - Quad 34 in this case) do I still need the resistor between positive/ground or not? Can't find any hard/fast confirmation of this in the thread (so far....!) Many thanks, - John |
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#2348 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Found some Solen 3.3uF caps from a gutted pre-amp, and had some 22k metal film resistors in the parts box so installed these in the space between the metal cover, and the outer chassis, on the right hand side. Also installed some gold phonos at the back, also on the right hand side.
Worked first time thank goodness (been a while since I'd used it as a CD player) and sounds awsome! Will post some pics later.
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#2349 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Here it is. Bought one of those translucent chassis. Decided to remove the lid as one thing less to vibrate and disturb the laser tracking. Drilled a few holes over the PSU for some added ventilation. Will have a stab at Mick's PSU at some point.
You can just see the solen caps on the right hand side, by the cd TOC switch. Power is supplied by an old DPA 'the power' mains filter - seems to work extremely well on digital sources, though I never like using filters on amplifiers as they seem to squash the dynamics. VERY happy with how it's sounding - thanks MickF and to all others here for such a fab project! - John Last edited by johnm; 18th September 2009 at 10:45 PM. |
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#2350 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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I replaced the stock diodes on the power supply at D101, D102, D103, D104 with Schottky 11DQ10 (1.1A) diodes. The fuse immediate blew when I powered up the PS1. Is it possible that I damaged the unit? Or did the fuse save me from further damage? I just made a purchase of four new FRED 600V 30A diodes from Digi-Key.
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