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Old 15th May 2009, 01:40 PM   #2291
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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Default free Playstation (with conditions) ?

OK - I have accumulated a number of working playstation 1's which are surplus to my requirements. I am happy to give these away for free, but there are some conditions :

1) You collect, I don't want to post these. I live in Fleet, Hampshire, UK. I work in Reading, Berkshire, UK so happy to arrange collection from Thames Valley Park if that is easier

2) None are the desirable SCPH 1002 models

3) Some are just the basic unit without controller , mains lead or audio adapter

email me if you are interested and happy with the above conditions.

jonathanDOTivesATgmailDOTcom
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Old 15th May 2009, 04:26 PM   #2292
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Default State of Play

Well, I am assuming that the second rectifier (BD243C) is shot. Since my external power supplies are adjustable, I have simply redialled the voltage from the separate PSU box. Now all is working and the PS1 runs extremely cool.

As for the sound. Since I built in a pre-amp with its own decoupling capacitor on its input, I could see no reason to use the capacitor / resistor filter on the DAC output of the PS1, so the DAC is now fed directly to the preamp. There is a clear difference in the sound. I seem to have more detail and depth, and a much drier sound, less boomy.

The situation now is that I am burning it all in. I may resurrect the second rectifier later (when Maplin have some BD243Cs in stock) but right now I like the sound and the lack of heat.

The remote control is integrated into the external box and apart from turning on the occasional strange sound effects, works very well. All in all this has been a lot of fun... now resting until burn-in has finished. Thanks to all for the advice and help en route.
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Old 15th May 2009, 11:03 PM   #2293
fangio is offline fangio  Chile
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Hi everybody, I've just bought a scph1001 (about U$10), I have removed the modchip, and adjust the laser alignment, however the value of 11,4 mv given by Mick doesn't work for me, the lens goes up and down, but couldn't reed. Making test, it appears to work fine with 14,3 mv.

Now I pretend to modify the rca audio output stage (with external jacks) and I have the following doubts:

Is it necesary to take out the muting transistors?. Another thing is that in Mick's web it appears how to calculate the values of the resistors and capacitors, however, it donít mention nothing about the value of the voltajes of capacitors (how you calculate that?, it is important?), for example I saw a modification that used Russian 4,7uf K75-10 PIO caps, whatís the voltage value of them?. Thanks!!

pd; sorry about my english.
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Old 16th May 2009, 12:33 AM   #2294
rhing is offline rhing  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by fangio
Hi everybody, I've just bought a scph1001 (about U$10), I have removed the modchip, and adjust the laser alignment, however the value of 11,4 mv given by Mick doesn't work for me, the lens goes up and down, but couldn't reed. Making test, it appears to work fine with 14,3 mv.
That should be fine. With some laser units, age has decreased their effective intensity level, so it is not a problem to increase the power to the laser. However, keep in mind that a higher voltage could shorten the laser life a bit. I've had to do this with a couple of my Playstations and they've worked fine.

Quote:
Originally posted by fangio
Now I pretend to modify the rca audio output stage (with external jacks) and I have the following doubts:

Is it necesary to take out the muting transistors?. Another thing is that in Mick's web it appears how to calculate the values of the resistors and capacitors, however, it donít mention nothing about the value of the voltajes of capacitors (how you calculate that?, it is important?), for example I saw a modification that used Russian 4,7uf K75-10 PIO caps, whatís the voltage value of them?. Thanks!!

pd; sorry about my english.
No need to apologize for your English; it's completely clear to me what you are asking.

I removed the muting transistors just in case there could be a grounding issue that could interfere with the sound quality. Removing them per Mick's instructions is a relatively easy task if you use a small screwdriver and soldering iron. Simply heat the single lead on one side and use a small screwdriver to lift the transistor. I completely removed them by heating the other two leads and used a small screwdriver to lift and move the transistor off the pads.

The output signal is less than 2 volts, so a capacitor rated at 10 volts or higher is safe. I used 4.7uF/25 volt Elna Silmic II electrolytic caps with 22kohm 1/4 watt metallized film resistors on my output stage mods, and it sounds perfectly fine. The Russian K75-10 PIO caps should be okay.
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Old 16th May 2009, 08:08 AM   #2295
fangio is offline fangio  Chile
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Thanks so much Rich
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Old 17th May 2009, 03:17 AM   #2296
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Default Re: sony playstation cd player...

Quote:
Originally posted by pozo1992
Hi gents,

The older version (SCPH1002) has got RCA jacks, the others do not. I would say that to my ears the 1002 version sounds best.

Pozo1992

thanks will have to try to get one. It does have the play and stop button?

Quote:
Originally posted by Nanook
well I did manage to get the old playstation for $16 USD

Separate on-board power supply, RCA outputs (+digital out). It sounds surprisingly good, much better than it should.

Apparently nothing else need be done, except perhaps an 5" LCD screen (found one for $20USD) so I can see what I'm doing.
I don't need a screen to control the unit?, right?

thanks

gychang
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Old 17th May 2009, 04:06 AM   #2297
amt is offline amt  United States
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To control it you need to either use the controller or a PS2 DVD remote
(which is much better) It works perfectly with the PS.

I purchased a couple of Sony remotes from this guy. Great service and no surprises.

https://vpgames.com/p-119-official-s...-open-box.aspx

amt
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Old 6th June 2009, 12:16 PM   #2298
Ziggy is offline Ziggy  Australia
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Well,..........many weeks down the track and the Playstation CD player with step up output transformers(I went back to the 600ohm : 10k Altronics ones) and the sound is better than ever : amazing clarity

Will try battery supply with 2 regulators tomorrow.
I'll report back on my results
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Old 6th June 2009, 09:05 PM   #2299
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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With all this very positive talk of using transformers at the output (and I agree with this from using some on the 'BIG' chinese DAC project on another thread) isn't it even better still to just wire directly to the output phonos? Nothing to colour the sound then.

Most pre-amps have DC blocking coupling caps on the inputs anyway so - in theory - shouldn't this be a better way of doing things? (good though the transformers are)??

Cheers,

- John
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Old 7th June 2009, 09:24 AM   #2300
Ziggy is offline Ziggy  Australia
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Yes, John.....that's true. I did it because the output from the DAC is so low. The transformers provide considerably more gain and some ''grunt'' so that less amplifier volume is required.

I am actually surprised how good even cheap transformers sound - quite transparent, especially when devoid of D.C.

Any opamp, I have found, no matter how good, or any discrete solid state or tube output stage has left an obvious coloration or ''signature'' in my experiences with the Playstation output.

So, has anyone used BATTERY POWER on their Playstation and would like to report back their impressions?
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