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Old 5th November 2008, 02:01 AM   #2151
troystg is offline troystg  United States
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"If anyone would like the measurements or construction/wiring photos ,I'd be happy to post them."

Photos of the construction would be GREAT!


I have one (1) Play station and I want to be sure before I start hacking on it.

Pictures posted here would be very helpful.

And yours looks incredible!
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Old 5th November 2008, 11:35 AM   #2152
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Wink PS1 music

Just sit back and enjoy, life is far to short. If you don't enjoy listening to it. Buy a T/Table.
Cheers tabard
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Old 6th November 2008, 03:31 AM   #2153
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I've had some email about pimping my ps1 thanks for kinds words I'm blown away.
I'll get around to answering them asap.I'm somewhat dyslexic
It can overwhelming trying to responde to email promptly at times please bear with me.I will get around to it.
I'm putting together a list of construction materials and how to photos but this takes me a little longer than most people.
I'll happly reply to all email and posts asap .
Thank you Paul.
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Old 6th November 2008, 02:16 PM   #2154
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Default pimp my ps1 for beginners

The reason I've gone into such a long winded post is because when I 1st started to pimp my ps1 I noticed most of the posts were by advanced DIY guys I didn't want to bother them they had way more technical questions to repond to.I'm sure they would have helped I just didn't want waste their time.So after a lot of trail and error heres the result its basicly a stage one cut and shut job. Hope you like it. and makes things a bit easer for you.

Please excuse my spelling and grammar it can be a real shocker.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13338965

It's fabricated out of 4.5 mm Alcrylic black gloss perspex.(all my measurements are calculated around 4.5 mm)

Glued together with I.S.P Weld.on # 16 clear medium bond solvent cement.

Cutting list

Base cut 1 @ 271 mm x 230 mm (271 mm is your front edge)

Sides cut 2 @ 230 mm x 43 mm

Front cut 1 @ 278 mm x 43 mm

Top cut 1 @ 282 mm x 235 mm
Note the top has a 2 mm overhang this creates a slight shadow line so it doesn't look so boxy.

No need for a back.

A few tips before we get stuck into the construction.

Tip get it cut to size, I'm carpenter by trade its not worth the hassle. It cost me$20 AUD they cut while you wait, man I couldn't do it that cheap. Tip don't remove the outside cling wrap until you've finished glueing.this adhesive is a plastic weld type and can't be removed very ugly. Go easy the perspex it scatches easly if it is a small scratch, car polsih may remove it but do a test on some scrap to test that is ok to use .

Tip use your rca plugs and not your a/v cord if your doing lots of test runs. But definately use it during play back it sounds way better.

pcb = printed circuit board . h,s = heatsheild psu =power supply unit whole shooting match = h,s + remote sensor. + pcb.
Refer to photo link below = RPLB

Construction Method

Use masking tape to hold the base in position while building. Run a bead of glue along one the EDGE of the base and the inside face of the SIDE and butt join together,using a combination square to aline them correctly. Hold in position until glue goes off approx 2 minutes (full set is 24 hrs). Repeat the same process for the front you've now got a corner making it easy to square up ,repeat for last side. RPLB

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13375065

When it's stable run a bead of glue around all inside corners caution don't over do it with the glue.

Remove everything from the orignal box and unclip the uniplug from the psu.Keep the pcb and its h/s and chassis. although the orignal base to ps1 fits in the new box its to high and you wont get lid on the new one so disguard it. RPLB

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13351220

Glue the remote sensor into its socket just a few dabs to hold it in place don't flood it.

Lenght wise the sensors all pretty within a few mm of each other brand wise worse case the chassis will hang out the back a few extra mm its no biggy.

Lightly masking tape the whole shooting match, together makes it easy to work with while you doing your dry runs.

Positioning the whole shooting match.

Whilst looking from the front, place the whole shooting match in the box move it all the way to right hand side of the new box also make sure sensor is in the right spot, the sensor sensor butts up to the inside front so it sits squarely in the box. Theres no need to drill a hole for the sensor to read the remote if you've used the 4.5 mm perspex. . This will also be the final position for the pcb and chassis from which all other measurements are taken, so don't let it move make sure everything is squared up and tape it in position for now.
This photo is taken from the back it shows how it has to sit square in the box.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13363011

Now is a good time raise the laser unit to ts final overall height. We need to do this so we have clearence of approx 5 mm from the top of the box to the underside of the cd..Just lift up laser unit and lay it aside then gentlely unclip it from the pcb .You'll see 3 support posts slip some 4 mm high plastic gromets over the posts replace the laser unit and check that it sitting level .You may need to pack it on 1 or 2 of the posts with some thin flat washers to get it sitting level. Place a straight edge (must be 4.5 mm thick use some of your perspex for this) from one side of the box to the other. The top of the laser unit (not the spindle) should be about 5 mm above the top of the straight edge.

This shot will give you idea of what we are trying to achive.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13385249


http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13376633.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13363011

Marking out top for the laser unit.

Remember to take into account the extra 2 mm overhang. Take a measurement from left hand side the box to the centre of the spindle if your've got measurement of 142 mm your on track. Next take a measurement from the front of the box to the centre of the spindle if you've got a measurement of 142 here also your on track, These measuremenst are just a guide your box maybe a mm different to mine. Mask up the area on top of the lid so you can transfer the measurements of these points when mask up a large area this way you jig saw wont mark the perspex . Drill a.pilot hole for your jig saw and cut it out .Tip dont rush the drilling or jig sawing it tends to chip if rushed.RPLB Measure twice cut once.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13391163

Step 1 Use your 142 x 142 guide measurement to get a starting place
Easiest way to find the correct spot for the laser unit is to create a parallel line between the laser unit and the left outside edge, of the lid about 86 mm only a guide for set out. the final cut will be plus 2 mm . You should cut slightly under size you can always file/trim away the excess later if everything lined up correctly. Create a parrallel another line from the front its about 124. Mark it out and cut it to the size of the laser unit and do a dry/test run.
Step 2

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13375494

If every things lined up correctly now cut it to the final size so you ve 2mm clearence around the laser unit this will minimize the vibration transfer though the box and chassis . A little vibration should'nt transfer the lens it reads only 0 and 1 and not viabration like a turntable but as a background noise its can be annoying.

Final set postion of h/s pcb and chassis
Lightly silicon the whole shooting match into position just enough so its secure and easy to cut out if you need to make some fine adjustment or /mods/repairs at a later stage. Silicon is a better option to screws they tend to crack the perspex hold it in postion with masking tape until the silicon goes off.

att'n: Caution go easy with and where you put the silicon it may have to come out one day.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13375494

Setting up so the lid has somewhere to fix to.
Cut up some glue blocks glue them on their flat side flat to the top inside edge of the box in the corners,place some very thin double sided tape on the top of glue blocks and place the lid in position. The benefit here is when you come to do a upgrade or repair all you need do is break the d/s tape seal. Also these no ugly fastenings seen on the outside just nice clean gloss lines.

If you have a look on the finished unit there is a gold screw to the top right of the CD this solves the problem of the stop /start spindle connection from where the lid use to close .


My solution to this problem is teloscopic plunge screw system using the original sprung switch on the pcb as the resistance. Its bit tricky to fabricate but operates smoothly. If want to know how to build one email me I'll email you directions or post a how to. RPLB.

Or you can take the easy way out and just wedge something in there this leaves it jambed on

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13385249

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13377272


Next
Simple cut and shut extension from pcb to psu. Make sure you solder all joins and cover them with srink wrap tubing.
RPLB

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13375199


http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13363191

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13351220


Thats it go hook it up to your rig, And make your speakers move some air around.
[
url]http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=307794803& albumID=0&imageID=13385988[/url]

[url]http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=307794803& albumID=0&imageID=13338965[/url

Paul

P.S. off topic pic

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...mageID=3397798
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Old 6th November 2008, 02:42 PM   #2155
Quaddy is offline Quaddy  United Kingdom
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wow, great post AL, some inspiration for the rest of us beige box users!

thats a great walk through and the photos really help to bring it all into context

looking good!

really appreciated!!!

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Old 6th November 2008, 04:28 PM   #2156
troystg is offline troystg  United States
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WOW!

I was going to be happy with just pictures.

Sorry to make you go through so much but I know I appreciate it.

Mine will soon undergo surgery.
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Old 6th November 2008, 09:27 PM   #2157
rhing is offline rhing  United States
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Audio Luddite,

Thanks for the detailed write-up and photos. I suspect we'll be seeing more Perspex encased Playstations in the near future on this thread.
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Old 7th November 2008, 01:46 PM   #2158
fraserh is offline fraserh  United Kingdom
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Thanksfor that -A-L, great write-up. Off to get myself some perspex...
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Old 10th November 2008, 12:22 AM   #2159
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Thank you for the kind words.
When I put the guide together,I tried to put myself in the position of someone who had no little expierence working with tools.

I wish someone would do the same for removing the caps as I've zero idea when it comes electronic side of it apart from a simple cut and shut , all the posts Ive seen talk in electronic shorthand eg: for advanced DIYers or electronic technicians.

I need a post for DIYers who cant read an electronic shcematic just simple pictures detailing desolder here run wire from A to B.
Hope someone can help thanks Paul. In other words cap removal for dumbasses. .
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Old 10th November 2008, 09:51 AM   #2160
Quaddy is offline Quaddy  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by Audio Luddite

I need a post for DIYers who cant read an electronic shcematic just simple pictures detailing desolder here run wire from A to B.
Hope someone can help thanks Paul. In other words cap removal for dumbasses. .
me three! amen to that.
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