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Old 28th May 2008, 08:48 PM   #2051
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You can safely leave those two caps in. They are 120pF, their function is to keep out any eventual RF interferences.
I am no engineer either hehe... but glad my post was helpful
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Old 29th May 2008, 07:05 AM   #2052
Tolu is offline Tolu  Germany
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OK, now it is better than before. I have to do some serious listening comparisons between original PS1 Multi-A/V-output (reference) and the modded one. What I can say is that the new mod now plays very fine and detailed with a good but a litte bit narrower stage. I have to give caps a little time to acclimate.

I will further report...
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Old 31st May 2008, 08:25 AM   #2053
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I just modded my PS1 today and I am very impressed. I really appreciate what Mick and the boys have done. Thanks guys!

I used Wima Black Box Audio 3.3uF 5% 400V capacitors, some carbon 22K resistors. The wire I used was nexxtech 18 gauge hook up wire I got from The Source. The solder was silver loaded rosin.

I know nothing of electronics and just mimicked the site for the most part. Does anyone think I should use better wire? I thought it might be a bit crude. Were the Wima caps a good choice? They are much higher voltage than those on the site and are so large they must be placed externally. Would metal oxide or any other kind of resistor be better than the carbon ones? I think the solder is good though and have used it for my cartridge tags.

Anyway, the results were great! Yesterday I just tried the shortening the signal path with the jumper wire mod and that really cleaned up the sound but, like the stock PS1, I found the bass was just a little muted and overall the player needed to hit the 'loudness' button to live up to the claims. Well, I'm very pleased that the full modding did just the trick. I'm really looking forward to the power supply and circuits warming up.

I want to make some more for my dad, brother and some friends so if I can do any tweaking to my approach that would be great. I'll be surfing through this forum in the meantime.
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Old 31st May 2008, 10:44 AM   #2054
Tolu is offline Tolu  Germany
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Hi

the caps are OK but I would strongly recommend some good metal film resistors!

I am very happy with my choice of 10 MKP QS and 100k. But it isn't not a final result. Hifi means listen, change, try, listen, listen, modify, listen, compare...

The caps doesn't fit in the original case because they are 1.1" x 1.5". A new case is needed!

My early mod was a 1 WIMA and 49k. That wasn't good at all. To much highs, no body, no warmth!

I think the original (Multi-AV-) circuit with better parts is the best way to go.
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Old 31st May 2008, 09:52 PM   #2055
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Tolu, some people claim carbon film resistors sound warmer and more musical than metal film resistors... others claim metal film sounds better... I'd say, everyone has to see what he/she likes most...
The only kind of resistor that should always be replaced, are the carbon composite ones, frequently found in old equipment (they're not used anymore, logically). They really do sound bad...
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Old 1st June 2008, 08:31 AM   #2056
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Thanks guys, I really appreciate your input. I totally agree with you on experimenting and look forward to doing so. If I was to be critical I think there might be a slight leaness in the upper midrange and maybe a tiny bit in the highs too but I've been distracted by how much the bass and detail improved.

I will try to find some metal film resistors. Are those different from metal oxide?

I don't like the sound of 'OK' for my caps. I thought they would be a good choice as they are 'audio' editions. What other brands are good besides MKP?

Quote:
Originally posted by Tolu

I think the original (Multi-AV-) circuit with better parts is the best way to go.
Are there instructions anywhere on how to do it this way? or is this what I've already done?
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Old 1st June 2008, 07:14 PM   #2057
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James,
metal oxide and metal film I think they are the same.

MKP is not a brand, it simply means that the cap is of metallized polyester film type.
Such caps are made by several brands. Most commonly known and one of the best, is WIMA.

It's up to you to find the cap which you like most... I have made the experience that even electrolytic caps can sound good (if you need higher capacitance, it can become very hard to find a MKP or they have enormous size): Panasonic FC.

The MultiAV-out is that connector on the back of the playstation. In the early PS1 model (SCPH 1002) it also delivers the raw audio signal. Look a little bit back in this thread, people were talking about this mod. I think Tolu did this mod, you might try to ask him directly.
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Old 1st June 2008, 07:20 PM   #2058
Tolu is offline Tolu  Germany
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Hi James

just look at post #2050 and you will understand. That's what I did!

I did some investigations about your caps and they seem to be very good! So, relax on that issue. Like Joydivision said, simple carbon resistors are grainy and have often high distortion. Try some others. I think there is a difference between metal oxyd and metal film.

Another reason for choosing that values: look at the data sheet of the AKM 4309!!!

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Old 15th June 2008, 05:51 PM   #2059
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Default AK4310VM & AK4309AKM comparision

i have two ps1: 1001 and 1002 models.
the mainboards are pretty different, and 1001 uses AK4310VM.
is there anyone who know about the differences between these two models, actually these two DACs.

i attached some pics for both models. left one is 1001, the other 1002.

thanks for your help...
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Old 15th June 2008, 08:23 PM   #2060
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Default AK4310VM & AK4309AKM comparision

i have two ps1s: 1001 and 1002 models.
the mainboards are pretty different, and 1001 uses AK4310VM.
is there anyone who know about the differences between these two models, especially these two DACs. i wonder which one performs better. (i did a RCA sound stage mod to 1001, 1002 is original)

please have a look at the URL for the comparision pics of two models.

thanks for your help...

http://b1r.net/ps1/00.jpg
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