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#1881 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
I will try it but the enclosed factory cables seems to be not of the highest quality. What is the reason for this difference between RCA output and AV multi? What hearable effect can I expect? |
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#1882 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wales
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Quote:
__________________
regards willbewill |
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#1883 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Thank you willbewill for that great hint!
I tried it right now. An improvement of about 90%!!! It's shocking how much clearness and details have won. I am using the original cheap Sony cables with the multi A/V plug. My modding has ended. There is not much to improve left I think. Any other mod can't give such a big improvement as with this method I think. I am very content an d happy now!!! You're invited for a (german) beer (or two)! |
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#1884 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Algarve
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Tolu:
Vpp means "Voltage Peak to Peak" and Vrms means "Voltage Root Mean Square". The first should be obvious: it's the absolute value of the max amplitude from positive peak to negative peak of the waveform. The second one is a kind of "average" value, only referring to one part of the waveform (the amplitude of one phase, for example from zero to positive peak), and taking an average value of that. Most AC voltages are measured in RMS, and in the audio domain, it's the preferred way to indicate voltage levels, besides the usual ways of of expressing them in dbV, for example... If you want to get a "ball park" figure of conversion from Vpp to Vrms, do this: Vrms = (0.5*Vpp) / 1.44 That DC-DC converter looks nice, though I think it's still the best to use a big linear power supply. With a switched DC-DC converter you always have some HF noise... If you want, take a look at the link I gave a little back in this topic, from my PS Mod project, to get some additional ideas, as I've taken a slightly different way than Mick did... |
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#1885 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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@joydivision: thanks for this good to understand reply.
After 3 hours of operation the laser of the PS had many 1-second-drop-outs so I had to finish my audio session. What is the reason? A heat problem? The PS got remarkaby warm at the left side. The power supply in an own box or a new one? Modifying the bias values of the laser unit? Any solutions? I was so surprised of the good sound so I want to keep the PS as my mayor player but it has to work properly and reliant. I hate trouble! |
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#1886 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Probably the laser unit needs to have the bearing surfaces and the worm-gearing lubed with some lithium grease. It sounds like the laser may have trouble tracking the cd.
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#1887 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Hampshire
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Lots of sudden activity in this thread I'm having trouble keeping up.
Nice neat and tidy job from vuthanh6. I like the style and placement of the buttons on the right hand side. Any chance of a picture of the inside ? Quote:
I acquired an SCPH9002 last week, which has only an AV out . Listening via the adaptor cable it sounded pretty good. I curiously noticed that the remote's 'select' button does not seem to 'stop' with this unit, but other than that it worked fine. I fancy the treble was a bit rougher, but I did not listen for very long. |
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#1888 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Sorry, but I forgot you in my invitation for the beers! Any other comment for my laser-drop-out-problem? |
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#1889 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wales
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Quote:
Probably not much help but I use the later 9002 laser units in 1002, the seem to be more robust and not too much modification is needed to fit them.
__________________
regards willbewill |
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#1890 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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| karelch |
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| Playstation CD Player | Beau | Digital Source | 2 | 19th March 2004 08:59 PM |
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