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|29th October 2007, 04:27 AM||#1662|
Must say the industrial "powerstation"
look reminds me of Mr Tent's open board
CD player. I see yours is a 5502 or similar.
I have just been painting playstations
and keeping the mods inside. Your idea
has opened a new avenue maybe with a
few LEDs could be made to look dramatic
and maybe improving WAF. I have also got a
PSONE case top and maybe will sink it into
a top panel so that the area around the
laser assembly is clean and neat. fill in
the buttons like on that stealth PS1.The
PSONE top panel looks good without a lid
and might work well if you want to run
without a top. It has better aesthetics
than the greystations when topless. Also
I see you can get 3rd party PSONE cases
in the UK in tranparent colours. Its so nice
to see people thinking outside the playstation
box as it were !
http://www.edirectory.co.uk/pf/880/m...es/pid/4075942 (for PSONE cases)
(Mostly PSX cases but may have PSONE)
http://www.interesting-devices.com/a...rchFor=&PT_ID= (for PS1 cases)
|29th October 2007, 09:59 AM||#1663|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Hi everyone, may I be so bold as to interject? Having a PS1 SCPH 1001 and no electronic / diy skills I saw an advertisement to have it modified here in Canada for $250. My question is will these mods make a real difference or is there something else you would suggest? The ad reads as follows...
Stage "One" PlayStation Mods available at Audio Oasis for $250.00CAD
The purpose of our modifications to Sony's PlayStation is improve clarity,
focus and detail while preserving the musicality and rich tonal balance
inherent in the stock set up. We feel we've more than succeeded in these
goals through a clever, compact,and somewhat unique series of modifications
that result in a stock looking machine, with no outboard gizmo's or fragile
interfaces, that performs way beyond the normal expectations for such a
We start by dramatically improving both the quality and quantity of
capacitors within the digital power supplies to greatly improve
the regulation and high frequency noise rejection of these sections. The
parts chosen have ultra low impedance and superb high frequency performance
resulting in a much more refined sonic presentation over the standard parts
used. The values have been chosen to optimize performance at any particular
point within the circuit.
An area of improvement often overlooked is that of power supply
decoupling of the DAC itself. The recommendations of the manufacturers are
often ignored at this point in favor of economics. Here we have used a
similar series of "super" electrolytic capacitor, (as mentioned
above), to more effectively decouple the power supplies at this very
critical point in the circuit.
The basic analogue circuit topology used is that of complete minimalism,
All bits and pieces between the DAC and output RCA are carefully removed and
replaced by a stereo pair of output caps and load resistors... that's
The output capacitors are made especially for this machine. These "trick
caps" are miniature, high performance polypropylene capacitors in which
their entire structure and associated lead wires are mechanically damped
with various constraining layers and electrically shielded with copper
foil. Our unique construction allow these superior sounding capacitors to
live within the electrically and mechanically noisy environment of the
machine with no ill sonic effects.
To get the most from our finished machine the laser assembly settings must
be optimized for best sonic performance these we have determined
through careful listening tests and experimentation.
Other enhancements can be made to our system but would not offer the same
bang for the buck as those of our stage "One" mod. These might include:
- further mechanical and electrical damping / shielding (feet, structure,
repackaging, circuit board, isolation, etc...)
- light injection into CD (green, blue, etc...)
- "crazy ***" power supplies (can involve external dohickeys)
- power cords and fuses
- remote control
Some or all of things can be done but we feel that, with the exception of
the remote control, they would cost more than the benefits justify.
|29th October 2007, 11:27 AM||#1664|
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Foxton, CAMBS..
Thanks for links, I'll give the transparent cases a go. IMHO the 5552 sounds the same as the 1002 so those cases will fit OK.
I usually keep all the mods in the case but I thought I'd try some big caps this time and that's how it evolved.
I will make an original case model next with a separate external box for the caps and rca's.
Attached picture of one of my 1002..
|29th October 2007, 06:38 PM||#1665|
Join Date: Mar 2004
audio1st - fantastic design. Somehow reminds me of the Voight-Com test machine from "blade runner"
diydummy - pretty much all of this work is described in this thread. the only thing alluded to is the DAC decoupling caps, which AFAIK no-one has changed, mainly because these are tiny surface mount cans. Easy to get off, less easy to resolder, but I'd guess they are referring to SM OSCON caps which are available.
AnthonyPT - thanks for the links - I ordered myself a transparent blue case to go with the remote I have.
I also just spotted this device
for the money , might be useful for parties where you want 15 hours of music on one CD
|29th October 2007, 07:47 PM||#1666|
Join Date: Sep 2003
Audio1st - Just wanted to 2nd what others here have said about your PS1. It looks stunning, and very similar to what I'd like to do with mine (if I had the tools and resources!). I was inspired by the 47labs CD player - similar looks.
Bet it sounds fantastic?
|30th October 2007, 02:14 AM||#1667|
Join Date: Oct 2007
I'll hold off paying to have it modified until I get a chance to hear what the player sounds like in it's stock form once my new amp and speakers arrive.
|30th October 2007, 08:41 AM||#1668|
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chinook Country.Alberta
just use the AV cable....
if a schp100x,
I am no expert anything, and even I have managed to follow along..
stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane."
Let's help Dave and Ruth
|30th October 2007, 02:47 PM||#1669|
If you keep your money and fit
isolation feet and a heavy breadboard base
or similar as described in a few places
on this thread then use the AV cable to start with,
you will I hope be surprised how articulate
the 1001/2 and the 5501/2 PS1 units are. Personally
I like metal screws with wafer heads metric 10gx16mm.
Then to get a good seating for all 4 feet I put a small
square of cork with adhesive on top of the breadboard/
isolation board with eggshell foam underneath. Its
an easy start. Just takes removing and putting back
all screws. Video yourself as you go and you
cannot go too far wrong. Good luck. Try and test out the
player with a CD and CDR if you can.
Try tracks at start middle and end of cd. Any friend
with a multimeter, bluetack and electronic interest should be able
to follow Mike_F's clear instruction if you do not feel
up to it yourself.
|30th October 2007, 05:41 PM||#1670|
Join Date: Feb 2006
Johnm. I have modded 3 PS1's and built the linear PS for it as well. After 40 years into hifi I am gobsmacked at how good they are.
If you dont want to open it up and you want to send me your PS1 I'll mod it for free (or a bottle of wine !) What model is it ?
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