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#1551 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Great Minds eh puffin!
For the £4 ~ £5 each that the mundorfs cost me (shop on ebay) I certainly reccomend, especially if you are looking to put your caps on the outside. Dan |
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#1552 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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Dan. Where did you get your I.R receiver and how much was it ?
Is is Philips code ? How have you fitted it at the moment ? |
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#1553 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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I/R receiver came free with a game I bought for my PS2, never thought I would use it, but it certainly came in handy!
It is the same as the one which Mick uses only in a translucent case. At the moment it is just plugged into the controller port Ebay item 280143471679 is the same one - different brand though, no suprise there though. Not to sure of which I/R code it uses, I may try a little experimenting this weekend. |
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#1554 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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Dan. I bid for a PS2 I.R receiver and remote on ebay and won it for 99p plus postage. I am reliably informed by my son that the ports are the same on the PS1 & 2.
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#1555 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Yep mine is for a PS2 as well so im sure you will have no trouble there
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#1556 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi
Just finished painting my latest PS1 with a BAM Laser assembly installed. So far this one sounds the best and I must get to sorting out the power supply away from the player. Player is very articulate and runs at 11.4mv. However I have another 1002 player that I do not seem to be able to sort out. The laser is 11.4mv and idle bias 1.7v Laser hunts so I wonder if the gain is really way out. Any ideas of getting it into a range where it will read CDs even easy to read ones. I have worked on 11 PS1's and this is the first to not respond to adjustment even with a laser change from a bad ACM to a better ACM! Also came across a Ir remote that gets confused with Sharp code. Will post more details. Best Remote for me is my Futuretronics which will read Joytech Ir sensors better than Joytech hand remotes. The Joytech remote reads Futuretronic Ir Sensors better than it reads its own Joytech Ir Sensor! Must back up the code! Really enjoy this thread. Regards AnthonyPT |
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#1557 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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decided to have a break from trying to squeeze the last drop of hum from my system last night, so moved onto the playstation:
![]() I added the remote into the case and also added some spikes. The spikes are from oregondv.com and offer good value for money IMHO. As a note, I would say putting the remote in the case is a bit more fiddly than the output mods but less chance of damaging something important with static. Did anyone else who did this mod manage to keep the overall metal screen in place, I can't see it on Micks site and it really didnt seem like it wanted to go back on (kept all the other screens on though) I reccomened this to everyone though, it makes the PS look a lot more 'finished' I'm really coming to like the Playstation case as well - I reccomend a quick buff using UniPol plastic polish to bring it back to a fresh grey finish. Dan |
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#1558 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cologne
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Nice work, Dan. Afaik you are the first to follow the suggestion to include the RC receiver into the case. As you say, it makes quite a difference optically.
I have put all the shields back into place. The overall shield sits a little tight put it still fits in. Now, next give your PS1 a low-frequency damping base. You can follow the instructions on my page. This makes quite a difference sonically. For trying this out, you can already hear the effect when you put the PS1 on a soft pillow. Listen to complex passages of a well recorded CD with and without the pillow .... Mick
__________________
No statement here. |
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#1559 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Marburg
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Hi,
I made some experiments with a DC-powersupply today. I use a 12V-battery and two LM317 voltage regulator boards to set the voltage to 7,6V and 8,5V. Another transistor regulator (inspired by Mick!) with a TIP122 built into the PS, drops the voltage from 8,5V to 3,6V. The heatsick is far too small though, I will change this. The audio signal is taken directly from the solder pads near the DAC and fed into two Russian military grade paper + oil caps (1µF) with 1M-Ohm to ground. A tube line preamp is used for further amplification. Man, it is heard to believe, this sounds like beeing on a life concert, very dynamic, tight bass, very soft upper frequency range. Try it! Piero |
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#1560 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cologne
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Excellent work. If you turn the reg in the case by 180° you may be able to put a larger heat sink on it.
Where did you get those capacitors? Mick
__________________
No statement here. |
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