Playstation as CD-player

Net mentioned earlier, I hope!

Hi

I have also been fiddeling around with this amazing CD player for the last two months (yes, I know I'm late but still..... it's not ready)

After having performed all the here mentioned mods I'd been in reading about a lot of different mods on other CD players and then I thought, ok why not go further so today I have decoupled the tiny ceramic cap on the laser unit where you have the set screw for the sensitivity....
OOooohps!
From the start of the project I have noticed small improvements all the time and now....
That was the lift for the unit!! Period!

Decoupled with 10 nF across the existing ceramic cap. The whole music picture cleared up and it seem that there is more air in the whole soundstage and furthermore it sound clearer in general, more detailed and calm.

I'm happy and that is only the start for my work on the laser unit.
I can do this without being afraid of damaging things cause I have to change the laser unit anyway cause it is not working ok (I have to change the laser chip for a new one cause mine is measuring really strange values compared to what is mentioned here) so I thought... try on this one and then I know what works and what doesn't til I get a new laser unit.

Keep developing!
 
So far this is what I have done based on Mick's website and reading the thread to page 125...

This is a 1002 model bought for $15 out of the paper about 6 months ago.
image.jpg4_zpseb8h3b9s.jpg

Psu is still original, just relocated. Power cord is hardwired to board.

image.jpg2_zpsxolklzw8.jpg

Mick's bypass stage works well

image.jpg1_zpsmg22k6hg.jpg

and is wired to external RCA sockets.
Note I have only bypassed the old RCA output stage and the mute transistors. Everything else including the multi out still works which has been handy for A/B comparison.

image.jpg3_zpsdrmjt3nr.jpg


Sound is wonderful, with all the warmth of the original PS1, but with extra bass and amazing clarity.

Next job will be to add some feet and damping.
Dan
 
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You really need to do the 10k resistor mod (underneath the main PCB) to increase the output to see what these things can do. Search for posts under user name "Puffin".

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/31123-playstation-cd-player-272.html

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/31123-playstation-cd-player-192.html

Thanks for that, I'm reading through. Not sure if I need more output as even through my passive preamp I'm getting plenty of volume. I would be interested if changing the resistors relates to other sonic improvements..?
That said, I don't want to prematurely wear anything out by running it hotter.
Dan
 
I am not sure what "hotter" means, but I have not noticed any difference in the running temperature of either the PS1 or the power supply. I would not have thought that increasing the output voltage would cause any problems.

Sonic Improvements: I think the mod makes it seem more dynamic. The consensus of opinion is that these machines have a somewhat analogue sound. The mod does not change this but IMO enhances it. If you don't like it you can always return to the original values.
 
Sorry, I am a monkey that can follow instructions, therefore I read a lot to understand the out come of any mods I make. By hotter I mean higher voltage, which not understanding the circuitry I don't fully comprehend what unintended effects may occur to delicate components and there longevity.
Always keen to learn, just don't want to damage my precious ps1.

Keep the advice coming :cheers:
 
Hello!
From reading Mr. Feuerbacher's article on using the A\V Multi out you can still receive the same level of audio output through the RCA ports from a unmodified 1002, you just need access to a appropriate adapter or cable. Sony released an adapter (SCPH-1160) which should be sufficient, right? How about the S-Video cable, SCPH 10480?

I compared the audio output from my un-modded 1002 with a official S-Video cable and an equivalent inexpensive RCA cable (Belkin PureAV) and I can't hear any major difference. Also tested with a 5552 model PS1 and it pretty much sounds the same. I just thought that if anyone wants to try out the PS1 CD audio without modifying the unit, these cables and adapters with a 55xx PS1's do the business.

Also how does one go about finding the Gain & Bias settings of a 55xx PS1? I can only get access to one adjustment screw on the mainboard and I have no idea what thats for.
 
Many thanks to thedream and georgebrooke for sharing your Playstation modification experiences and data. Also, many thanks to Mick feuerbacher for his wonderful Web site with step-by-step instructions on modifying the Playstation.

I used Mick Feuerbacher's output stage modifications as a guideline to modding my Playstation 1 Model SCPH-5501. I use Elna Silmic II 4.7uF/35V electrolytic caps on the output stage, because they easily fit within the chassis. These are bypassed with Sonicap Gen 2 0.01uF/200V metallized Propylene caps for a very pleasing musical presentation. I tried the Vishay Roederstein MKP-1837 0.01uF/160V caps as well. These provided a different presentation of the midrange and treble. For those who like the more "hi fi" sound, this might be a better bypass. In either case, the bypass cap's sound characteristics really complement the smoothness and warmth of the Elna Silmic II caps. Nelson Pass recommended that I try the Elna Silmic IIs as an alternative to Black Gate Ns, which are "unobtainium" at this point.

View attachment 210708

I never built the linear power supply, because I couldn't find some of the computer connectors for connections to the power supply. What I did instead was replace the rectifier diodes with MUR860 600V/8A diodes, and installed better and slightly larger capacitance low ESR Panasonic FC and FM caps on the stock supply's secondary stage filter cap positions. This improved dynamic range, speed (or PRaT) and low end frequency definition.

A couple weeks ago, I brought my Playstation to a friend's audio gathering, and everyone was astonished at how this player faired against an NOS DAC and transport combo. It was actually more engaging on some CDs compared to vinyl spinning on a Thorens TD-125 MkII/SME 3009 Mk II/Shelter MC analog front end! Anyway, many of my friends have asked me to modifiy Playstation 1s in the same manner my unit is modified.

Lastly, a good tweak my friends and I have discovered are these cork and rubber vibration isolation pads. These are similar to "audiophile" feet sold for well over twice what I paid for at the local industrial supplies store. These things actually work!

Pad, Anti Vibration, Pk2 - Vibration Isolator Pads - Mounts and Vibration Control - Material Handling : Grainger Industrial Supply




Hello

Was wondering what type/value resistors you chose?

cheers
 
Hi, which resistors are you referring to?

Regards



Ah, i presume then that you did not use a resistor in your new output stage?.......If you did not, was it because your pre is capacitance coupled? (i.e you where not worrying about blocking dc).............Or is a resistor (along with supporting caps) not required to block dc?......please excuse my ignorance!

Much obliged

J
 
Hello!
From reading Mr. Feuerbacher's article on using the A\V Multi out you can still receive the same level of audio output through the RCA ports from a unmodified 1002, you just need access to a appropriate adapter or cable. Sony released an adapter (SCPH-1160) which should be sufficient, right? How about the S-Video cable, SCPH 10480?

I compared the audio output from my un-modded 1002 with a official S-Video cable and an equivalent inexpensive RCA cable (Belkin PureAV) and I can't hear any major difference. Also tested with a 5552 model PS1 and it pretty much sounds the same. I just thought that if anyone wants to try out the PS1 CD audio without modifying the unit, these cables and adapters with a 55xx PS1's do the business.

Also how does one go about finding the Gain & Bias settings of a 55xx PS1? I can only get access to one adjustment screw on the mainboard and I have no idea what thats for.

Could you explain how you connecte d the S-Video to your music system? I have that Sony S-Video cable but when I plug it into my 1002 no audio comes out when I connect the red/white rca's to my HIFI.

Would the Sony component cables work in my amp etc? I'm jsut trying to find gold plated OFC cables I can use from the AV multi out of my 100x to my music system.
 
I don't think you remember me, but I've contacted you through Facebook several times asking about the DC/DC converter for the OPA.

I want to thank you for your immense help and guidance, I still haven't changed the OPA or added the conv. yet (each parts ordered took like a month to arrive), but I've swapped out the caps with some Mundorf 4.7uF, used proper rated resistor for the output RCA as well (forgot what is the value, it was months ago).

Unfortunately one problem arises, it boots up well and recognizes there's a CD on the spindle, but when I press any button on the gamepad controller nothing responded.

I'm assuming it is a faulty controller so I've ordered a PS2 remote control. It should arrive today and I should be able to test it out later when I get home from work. I hope it works.

God I hope it works.

I've had this project on and off since I was still a student.
 
Good news! I got the controller to work again. It was a broken 3.3V fuse for the controller port. I desoldered and replaced it with a single copper jumper.

Too bad the sound isn't as good as I thought it would be :/
Maybe I put wrong value capacitors.

Also it skips so much. I guess the laser pickup needs replacement too.
 
I assume we cannot edit our posts?

Anyway, I took apart the laser pickup assembly and greased every moving part and put them together again. Then It turns out one foot from the high pass filter resistor detached due to a cold solder. I soldered it again and did some general cleanup with the connections between the caps and the RCA sockets. It played beautifully afterwards. It stopped skipping now except for a problematic Ellie Goulding CD.

And I think the capacitors needed some burning in too, the sound continued to open up as I changed CDs for the next few hours. Non fatiguing, very smooth, the output stage doesn't roll off the bass anymore so Lana Del Rey - Honeymoon has some solid, full, and controlled low end.

I do detect some sibilance in certain vocal parts and 'esses'. Not too sure what is causing it or if its actually in the tracks, but I'll let the caps burn in longer just in case.
 
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