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Old 11th July 2007, 09:10 PM   #1461
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mick_F
Well, currently I consider to put the caps simply into the cable.

Of course, putting the caps into the amp is the most obvious solution, but in mine there is also no space for these biggies. The ones I have are 65mm long and 35mm in diameter!

Mick
Just like the obbligato's in my combi amp-CD.
Keep the signal path short and use quality components....pitty I had to put two sets in there to stop that wierd DC offset thing, but the sound doesn't change that much with two sets... as long as they are all quality caps!
They take up more room than the T-amp!!
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Old 11th July 2007, 10:02 PM   #1462
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Hello all, Hello Mick,

First i use 3.3 Audyn plus, now i use Mundorf RFX 2.2 and these are in my opinion much better, more clearer sound, especially voices are not masked anymore, next i will try Mundorf supreme silver/oil.
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Old 12th July 2007, 12:47 AM   #1463
coppa is offline coppa  Canada
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hey about the diferent version of ps1:
where i live there is one place where the 5501 is avaliable. how does the 5501 compare to the 1001?. should i wait until i can find a 1001 or just get the 5501?. im not much of a modder so it would be nice to get a good sounding one without having to mod it.. i will probably be making an adaptor for the multi out but thats probably all i can do.
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Old 12th July 2007, 06:44 AM   #1464
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Quote:
Originally posted by coppa
hey about the diferent version of ps1:
where i live there is one place where the 5501 is avaliable. how does the 5501 compare to the 1001?. should i wait until i can find a 1001 or just get the 5501?. im not much of a modder so it would be nice to get a good sounding one without having to mod it.. i will probably be making an adaptor for the multi out but thats probably all i can do.
Wait for the 1001, I have a 5501 and it's pants in comparrison.
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Old 12th July 2007, 06:51 AM   #1465
rhing is offline rhing  United States
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Hi Coppa:

Intially, I used Model SCPH-5501 with a Sony-brand upgraded AV cable with gold plated RCA and AV Multi Out connectors and OFC wire (Sony P.N. SCPH-10500). I had this connected to my Melody SP3 vacuum tube integrated amplifier. This actually provided very nice results. Then, I happened to browse through a local used video game store and they had a Model SCPH-1001 for under $25 USD. I brought it back home and hooked it up to my Naim Nait integrated amplifier using a Chord Chrysalis RCA-DIN interconnect cable. IMO, there was a significant improvement in sound. Is Model SCPH-1001 that much better than SCPH-5501? I am not sure as I do not have a Sony Multi Out connector to DIN interconnect cable to connect Model SCPH-5501 to my Nait for direct comparison. I do believe there is some synergy between the Playstation (either model) and the Nait amp. I connected the same Model SCPH-1001 to the Melody amp using my Onix Blue RCA interconnects, and it was good, but nothing like the pairing with the Nait. I also tried using the Sony AV cable with the Model SCPH-1001's AV Multi Out connector to connect it to my Melody tube amp. I hardly heard any difference, but then I was using two different cables (Onix vs. Sony). Any advantage with the AV Multi Out may have been degraded with the cheaper Sony cable.

I am planning on making a DIY cable using a Chord Chrysalis DIN interconnect cable and soldering on a Sony Multi Out connector. This will require taking the Sony AV cable, stripping off the existing cable and carefully cutting open the Multi Out connector to do this, but I am confident I can reconstruct the connector. Alternatively, I could purchase a Monster GameLink 200 PS2 AV cable or Impact Acoustics PS2 AV cable and replace the RCA connectors with a 5-pin DIN connector. Both the Monster and Impact Acoustic cables are shielded twisted pair cables with some decent specifications. I believe it's easier to solder on a DIN connector than re-working a Sony Multi Out connector. Why would I go through all this for my Model SCPH-5501? Because I believe that equal, if not better performance can be obtained, if a good AV interconnect could be made. After all, Model SCPH-5501 has a slightly cooler running SMPS, a repositioned laser drive unit, a cast metal laser lense housing, and an auto-biasing laser for hassle-free use. Anyway, once I have the cable(s) made, I should be able to make a final judgment which Playstation model is the one to keep.

I also purchased a PS Audio xStream Power Punch C7 power cord with the polarized IEC C7 connector on the component end. I know that some people including Mick don't think an aftermarket power cord can make a difference, but to my ears I hear more detail and better frequency extension. BTW, I do value Mick's input. The system sounded more transparent. Call it psychoacoustics if you will, but I like the results. I would have prefered making my own 12 AWG DIY power cord, but I couldn't find an IEC C7 connector. There is a German company that offers a non-polarized IEC C7 (i.e., "Figure 8") connector for DIY cables, but I could get the PS Audio cable cheaper in the U.S. than paying for a little connector from Europe.

For now, I have no desire to modify the output circuitry. I am quite satisfied with the stock unit. If you can find Model SCPH-1001 on eBay or at some used game store for a reasonable price, buy it. I think the RCA jacks do offer an advantage to using good cables without having to mess with connectors. This will at least give you an idea of whether you want to pursue developing the Playstation 1 as a digital source.

Rich
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Old 12th July 2007, 07:48 AM   #1466
Mick_F is offline Mick_F  Germany
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Quote:
Originally posted by risperdal
Hello all, Hello Mick,

First i use 3.3 Audyn plus, now i use Mundorf RFX 2.2 and these are in my opinion much better, more clearer sound, especially voices are not masked anymore, next i will try Mundorf supreme silver/oil.
I will order the RFX with my next Schuro order and try it. Thanks for the idea. The Mundorf supreme types, in particular those involving silver and gold are really expensive, if not overpriced.


Quote:
Originally posted by rhing
Hi Coppa:

I know that some people including Mick don't think an aftermarket power cord can make a difference, but to my ears I hear more detail and better frequency extension.

Rich
That's the decisive point. If it sounds better to you, it serves its purpose.



Mick
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Old 12th July 2007, 09:35 AM   #1467
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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While I believe that one cable is much the same as another in pure ohms law terms, it is quite likely that the Switched Mode Power supply in the PS is creating all sorts of radio frequency interference, and 'broadcasting it' back down that mains cable. This may in turn have an effect on other components which share the same mains spur. I know some mains cables have a twisted or braided configuration which it is claimed attenuates EMI/RFI.

I don't go that far, but I do use an interference suppressing mains distribution block and I also clamp a couple of snap-in ferrite cores around my standard PS1 mains lead.
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Old 13th July 2007, 03:28 PM   #1468
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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I have just obtained a 1002 PS, 25. I tried it before modifications and thought....... mm, it plays CD's whats all the fuss about. Carried out the mods by removing the DC blocking caps and muting transistors. Well, what a change. I put it back together to check that it still worked. Might now carry out the mod to the output stage. Has everyone done all of MickF's mods, or jusrt some. Are some more effective than others ?

Are there any other mods in addition to MickF's ?
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Old 13th July 2007, 03:43 PM   #1469
sigurd is offline sigurd  Belgium
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Hi, all the modifications are nessessary. The PSU of Mick F. gives a big difference.
The output stage is also important, I use paper in oil capacitors.
I place the laser-unit on a wooden construction instead of the metal plate in the psx. All mechanics in the laser unit must be handled with
(white ) grase.
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Old 13th July 2007, 10:19 PM   #1470
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Hi guys, im in need of a little help!

I've just completed the linear psu as per micks site.

Put a dummy high wattage resistor on the output of the 7.6v reg so I could ajust the voltage to of the reg 7.6V whilst under load.
The second reg board however came out at somewhere over 10V (not the 8.3V stated) but this seemed to be taken care of by the next stage bringing it down to around 3.4~3.6V. (checked it was still around this figure when under load)

But, when connected to the Playstation, the 7.6V drops to around 4v and the 3.6 to around 2 and absolutly nothing happens (tried this on 2 of my PS's, both still work when switch mode psu is plugged back in.
(checked its simply not the disk tray open switch too!)

If it makes any difference I have yet to attach heat sinks to regs (I would at least thought they would do somthing before over heating though!)

All advice welcomed!
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