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#111 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Montreal
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OK so here's the output stage scheme of the 1001.
VT2 is what controls the muting transistors. The only difference with the RCA jack compared to the A/V MULTI OUT is that there is an opamp. The schematic after the opamp's output is an exact copy of the a/v out scheme. I'm just not sure about the small caps directly @ the output connecting to ground. Anyone here with a model without RCA jacks, is there only one pair of caps after the DAC? There is no opamp also. Am I right?
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Antoine http://dmsaudio.ca/ |
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#112 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cologne
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Good work, Dragonmaster!
Mick
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No statement here. |
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#113 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Montreal
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Quote:
Maybe your fried board just has a dead transistor or opamp. Have you tried the AV out? With a stock board, I think that the A/V OUT is the best : The signal passes thru only one cap while the RCA jacks pass thru a chapo opamp and two caps. The traces are as tiny for both. The only advantage with the RCA jacks for now is the interconnects. The AV wire made by Sony seems pretty thin, but it's one of the best console A/V wire I know.(It didn't break, I broke two Nintendo cables in the same peroid of time)
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Antoine http://dmsaudio.ca/ |
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#114 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cologne
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No, I didnt try the AV out, but it is a good idea. I will.
First I have to retrace all the research you did on the output stage.... Mick
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No statement here. |
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#115 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Montreal
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Quote:
If you don't have the AV cable, you can use the test points as there are a lot of them.
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Antoine http://dmsaudio.ca/ |
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#116 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: crete
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Quote:
i guess opamps are good because the german guys say the older the better sounding. the thing is that mine sounds fantastic after i shorted the caps. i use good quality rca and i soldered them to the AV out pins. another thing that gave me a good improvement was a power cable soldered directly to the psu at the power socket pins. |
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#117 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Montreal
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Quote:
http://www.methe-family.de/cd.htm Quote:
A thing to try would be a classic PSU. What I think about is to put the regulators on a custom PCB that fits where the current one is and use somethign like a 9-12VDC wall-wart. This way, we keep the AC away and we only need a two-wire cable. Also, the layout could be done so that we keep the current PSU switches. It will prevent us from having to select different ones.
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Antoine http://dmsaudio.ca/ |
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#118 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Hampshire
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Quote:
So Dragonmaster, for users of the 1002, are you saying that to short 423 or 424 we must connect a wire from the +ve of the 1st capacitor to the -ve of the 3rd capacitor dans la avenue de la farad. Why do they have 3 caps representing one on the circuit diagram ? Is it just a size thing ? |
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#119 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Montreal
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Quote:
There are two independant circuit. If you want to remove all caps from the RCA jacks circuit, short the first and third pair. The first pair is before the opamp and the third is after the opamp. If you want to make the circuit like the A/V MULTI OUT, connect the input of the first cap to the output of the third. The second pair is just for the unamplified A/V MULTI OUT. I compared A/V MULTI OUT and the RCA jacks and A/V OUT seems to sound a bit better. It's unamplified, but the gain is the same as the amplified RCA outputs.
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Antoine http://dmsaudio.ca/ |
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#120 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: crete
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Quote:
about the psu i think that a wall wart is not enough 17w is 1.5A i was thinking 3A minimum to have the best we can get. anybody knows how we could have spdif output for use with an external DAC? |
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