Playstation as CD-player

Back, could you give some more detail on the construction of your PSU? I understood you built a linear PSU with two regulators for 7.6 and 3.6 V, right? Then you connected the pins 1, 3, and 5 of the mainboard connector to the corresponding outputs of the PSU and 2, 4, and 6 to the 0 volt line? What did you do with pin 7 on the board?

Mick
 
OK so I've disconnected the muting transistors and the only difference is that there's humming when the PSX is off because my leads are long.

There is as much "popping" as when I bypassed the caps.

Since the DAC is always on with the PSX, the popping only happens when the unit is turned on and off. It's not even loud.

To disconnect the muting transistors:

You have to disconnect the ones that are the nearest to the RCA jacks. (The A/V ones are just next to them)
There are two sides to the transistors. One with one pin and one with two pins. The one you want to disconnect is the one with one pin.

Use your smallest flat screwdriver, heat the pin and slide it under the transistor. It should lift. Do the same with the other channel.

That's all!
 
Mick_F said:
Back, could you give some more detail on the construction of your PSU? I understood you built a linear PSU with two regulators for 7.6 and 3.6 V, right? Then you connected the pins 1, 3, and 5 of the mainboard connector to the corresponding outputs of the PSU and 2, 4, and 6 to the 0 volt line? What did you do with pin 7 on the board?

Mick

that`s right.

leave the pin 7 disconnected.
if you want to reset turn off and back on the ps1.
if you want a separate reset add a button between no7 and ground.
when you push the button you short circuit the no7 which already have 3.6v and the ps1 resets
 
DragonMaster said:
OK so I've disconnected the muting transistors and the only difference is that there's humming when the PSX is off because my leads are long.

There is as much "popping" as when I bypassed the caps.

Since the DAC is always on with the PSX, the popping only happens when the unit is turned on and off. It's not even loud.

To disconnect the muting transistors:

You have to disconnect the ones that are the nearest to the RCA jacks. (The A/V ones are just next to them)
There are two sides to the transistors. One with one pin and one with two pins. The one you want to disconnect is the one with one pin.

Use your smallest flat screwdriver, heat the pin and slide it under the transistor. It should lift. Do the same with the other channel.

That's all!

so you didn`t notice an improvement by disconnecteing the muting transistors?

the popping is the same to mine.
it`s small and only when you turn on-off and reset.
with play,stop,next,etc. there is no popping
 
so you didn`t notice an improvement by disconnecting the muting transistors?

Well I was meaning that there was not more popping than when they are connected only. I didn't talk about the sound.

I can't tell much as I only brought a "The Who" album for testing.

Maybe tomorrow I'll get something better and the PSOne to compare.

The CDs, PSOne, good amp and speakers are at my mother's home and the soldering iron at my father's. I'm always moving between my father's and mother's home, that's the problem.
 
Hy @all,
my english is not so good, but i hope you understand me. I dont' red all postings, but i use a PS1 1002 for listen CD. I modificate the output stage and the power supply, now i think abou building a tubestage. If you want to see some pictures of my PS1 you can visit my German homepage http://wwwhighend-info.de.
If you have any questions about sound or modification please contact me. I changed the output kapacitors and cuted the mutingstage.
Regards Dommi
 
Hi Dommi,

if you modified the output stage like in your site, you have modified the circuit for the A/V connector only.

The schematic that you might have found is for the A/V connector.

I made this schematic which is for SCPH-1001 and SCPH-1002 :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?postid=776664
The schematic has the circuit for the RCA plugs and A/V connectors.

To modify the circuit for RCA plugs, you have to remove all 6 capacitors and put a jumper wire between two pads.

You should look at these attachments also:

The capacitors connection:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?postid=780113

Where to place the jumper:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?postid=780717


ONLY ! Hope it was "Whos Next" - I love that album

No, "best of". I might bring Pink Floyd Echoes today or something like this. The only problem I have with this album is that a limiter was used.
 
jumpers...a reference .. (a little long)

well I actually started modding my PS yesterday. I altered the laser sled to hold an LED so that I might mount a blue or white one. Killed the only Blue LED I had. Have to go get some more...

Is there a preferred distance to mount an LED vs the laser assembly? Should I mount it stationary and flood the underside of the cd or put it on the sled?

I desoldered the the six diodes near the DAC and installed jumpers, and it has opened up quite a bit . It really moves and has become less analytical, the soundstage opened up quite a bit. I cut every second louvre out on the power supply side, and drilled a dozen or so holes in the top to facillitate cooling.The bass seems to have more impact on my open baffles. I was driving the system with my Yamaha B2 VFET amp and cat 5 cable, feeding the PS signal directly to the amp (it has 2 inputs with adjustable gain for each channel) .. A lot of laughs for very little money.

As I don't know what others listen to as a reference, I'll list mine so that it can all be put into context:

Main Rig: McCormack DNA 0.5 deLuxe/Microline drive, Castle Durham 900 speakers, Oracle Alex Mkll/SME 309 (mag)/Grado Sig 8, Pioneer "Elite" PD 54 , audioquest ruby, aq quartz, aq type 4 , aq indigo/Target Delta 5 stand/Target medium mass stands.
Oh and also my DIY replinth and tonearm with Grado sig 8, and a PS Audio lll phono stage.

I am enjoying the PS/Yamaha/Open Baffles as much or more than my main system. I don't know if it is because I DIY'd it or that it is ultimately better. I have asked others for their opinion and they all seem to agree with me. I never provide jargon or make any comments until after they have finished listening. I believe that the PS /Yamaha/OB system is ultimately more musical, but I can;t really say it is better or not. Regardless it sure is a lot of fun for VERY little $$$$
 
Re: jumpers...a reference .. (a little long)

Nanook said:

I desoldered the the six diodes near the DAC and installed jumpers, and it has opened up quite a bit . It really moves and has become less analytical, the soundstage opened up quite a bit.

Thanks Nanook - sorry to be a pedant but did you mean caps rather than diodes ? No problem , but I'm just starting to understand the geography of that little square inch of the board, and now I have diodes to worry about too:D


PS Offtopic, but are your open baffles described in another thread. It's a concept I find fascinating
 
Hy Dragonmaster,
thanks for your post

<if you modified the output stage like in your site, you have <modified the circuit for the A/V connector only.

On my HP i discribed my first modification. Now i attached the C423 and C424 direct to the chinch outputs. For the GRD Signal i use a shielded wire to GRD.

<The schematic that you might have found is for the A/V <connector.

???? So to chanage the C423 and C424 have noch effect on the RCA output ??
I checked different capacitors at my first mod, and i thought the paper/oil are the best one. It was only suggestion ??????
I don't believe it.
In your scematic where are the C423 and C424 ?

Thanks
BR Dommi
 
I wanted to contact you anyway, Dommi, so it is good that you show up here.

According to the pictures you show on your website, you have exchanged the capacitors for the AV output. But you are using the RCA out, afaik. Nevertheless, you report on a significant improvement.....

:confused:

Mick


EDIT: Hadnt read down the thread completely. I see that the question was posed already.....
 
Mick_F said:
I wanted to contact you anyway, Dommi, so it is good that you show up here.

According to the pictures you show on your website, you have exchanged the capacitors for the AV output. But you are using the RCA out, afaik. Nevertheless, you report on a significant improvement.....

:confused:

Mick


EDIT: Hadnt read down the thread completely. I see that the question was posed already.....

Hi Mick,

I forwarded the thread URL to Dommi, and I'm pleased he has contributed. I think he has rewired the RCA's to connect to the AV circuit where C423 & 424 are, but I'll let him clarify.
 
Hy @ all,
you are right, i soldered out the C423 and C424 on my second PS1 and the RCA output is already running.:cannotbe:
At my current PS 1 i modified the output like discribed in my last post. It's verry interesting that i believe to hear differences between the capacitors before. A form of suggestion !!!!!
O.K. anyway, i will correct my HP. Now i have some questions. I don't can find the OP 2100.
Can someone tell me where it is ?
What do you think,
is it better to use the OP and change the C428 and C429 and from there going direct to the RCA or is it better to let it like now with C423 an C424 direct without OP to the RCA ?
Or should i change the capacitors C429 and C430 and from there going direct to the RCA's ?
I think the capacitors C428 and C429 are the capacitors direct at pin 7 of the op, right ?
From AVM pin 16 to C429 right ?
A lot of questions, but im totaly confused about my fake at the first modifikation.
Thanks a lot for the informations !!!!
 
I don't can find the OP 2100.

It's under the board.

My PSX doesn't have any component number so I can't tell which cap do you talk about.

In fact, yes, the second pair has nothing to do here.

Look at my PDF diagram closely and you'll see that I draw a line between two pads. That's what you have to do.

In fact you want to solder the pad connecting from pins 15 and 16 to the ones going to the RCA outputs.

There is a mod with the muting transistors but I will post pictures an other time as I don't have the digicam.


What you're doing is practically OK but if you don't remove every capacitors it might not be so good.