Does anyone here know which versions of the Sony BU-1 laser mechanisms are cross compatible?
I have a Sony 333ESD CD player which needs a replacement laser but I cannot find a replacement BU-1E laser for it. However, I have found a seller in Germany with stock of the very similar BU-1C laser.
This video suggest that BU-1E and BU-1C are cross compatible.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLDtRe-EHmc
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
I have a Sony 333ESD CD player which needs a replacement laser but I cannot find a replacement BU-1E laser for it. However, I have found a seller in Germany with stock of the very similar BU-1C laser.
This video suggest that BU-1E and BU-1C are cross compatible.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLDtRe-EHmc
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Unfortunalely not yet. The big obstacle is the diffraction grating.
This is a part in the lens, that has to be turned exactly and slowly for
alignment. It is almost inaccessable after assembly.
Still very much regretting it, one of my working BU-1C´s got misaligned
while trying this. Do not have the time for finding a solution but still some
working BU-1C on the shelf.
This why I am focusing on the CDM-1 swing arm by Philips, to me as
robust and innovative as the BU-1C. They probably share the same laser,
Sharp LT022MC, but the Philips has no diffraction grating to align
But I will not do the same mistake again messing around with a working unit
and I am still waiting for an offer to get a broken CDM-1.
I will check the BU-1C´s I still have, pick one for you and make an offer.
But I need a photo of the connectors between the main board and RF-Amp board of the BU-1C.
You are experienced in swapping laser units, do you have an ESD save working environment and solder station?
If not I can make you the offer to send the player to me to Germany
I have some time after the 24th of July...
Hi Salar,
Please don't give up on replacing the laser diode in the BU-1 laser, it will be such a shame if great machines like the 555ESD, 557ESD, X7ESD and CDP-R1 cannot be fixed in the future simply because of laser diode failures.
I have some experience in replacing lasers. I have changed probably about 5 or 6 laser units without having a problem yet. I have an oscilloscope for doing the laser adjustments on the BU-1.
Do you need any photos of the BU1-E from me?
Please don't give up on replacing the laser diode in the BU-1 laser, it will be such a shame if great machines like the 555ESD, 557ESD, X7ESD and CDP-R1 cannot be fixed in the future simply because of laser diode failures.
I have some experience in replacing lasers. I have changed probably about 5 or 6 laser units without having a problem yet. I have an oscilloscope for doing the laser adjustments on the BU-1.
Do you need any photos of the BU1-E from me?
I have checked the BU-1´s I have against the "E - Type" (sounds nice 
an uncle drove one ) from the 333ESD.
My BU-1 are from a CDP 102 and 502. Though the flexible cable´s pin designations seem to be the same (the cable between the RF-Amp Board mounted on the BU-1 and the laser Unit) the boards differ a bit.
Also very intersting:
The Eyepattern´s Peak to Peak voltage is stated as 1V in the CDP-102 and 1.2V in the CDP-333.
Very intersting, I made the same observation with Philips that the Eyepattern´s amplitude was raised in later models.
I assume that changing the laser only but keeping the the RF-amp Board will have no negative effect. But I have never tried this.
Therefor it should be checked if the laser diode is definately faulty as the board will not be changed...
All the best, Salar
an uncle drove one ) from the 333ESD.My BU-1 are from a CDP 102 and 502. Though the flexible cable´s pin designations seem to be the same (the cable between the RF-Amp Board mounted on the BU-1 and the laser Unit) the boards differ a bit.
Also very intersting:
The Eyepattern´s Peak to Peak voltage is stated as 1V in the CDP-102 and 1.2V in the CDP-333.
Very intersting, I made the same observation with Philips that the Eyepattern´s amplitude was raised in later models.
I assume that changing the laser only but keeping the the RF-amp Board will have no negative effect. But I have never tried this.
Therefor it should be checked if the laser diode is definately faulty as the board will not be changed...
All the best, Salar
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In the meantime I am rather thinking of building a mechanical adapter that replaces the slider of the BU-1C and holds a "modern" laser.
But I have not researched if any major company still produces classical lasers for CD.
In a visit to IFA fair in Berlin I did not find one supplier for CD-transports.
I am talking about the manufacturer´s section of IFA that must hold at least 200 exhibitors, mainly
from China and South Korea.
One reputated OEM producer, StreamUnlimited from Vienna, Austria, Ex-Philips employees,
working for Music Hall or Ayon (I also assume Musical Fidelity) did not display one transport. This was once their core business.
Looks like the Sony and Sanyo mechs they use are not produced any more.
With replacing the diode on a BU-1C, I need some laser experts:
i.e calculating the astigmatism between diodes.
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Hi Salar,
I think the laser in my 333ESD is probably damaged by cigarette smoke. When first received this player it stank of cigarettes inside! I have cleaned the top surface of the top lens and also the underside surface of the top lens (tricky) but it hasn't helped much.
I don't remember exactly but I think I was measuring about 0.9v pk-pk for the laser eye pattern.
The player will play perhaps 1 in 3 discs part of the way through so I don't think there are any other problems, I think it is just a weak laser.
I thought it was possible that may be the photoreceptor on the laser was dirty and contaminated with nicotine residues but I cannot see a way to get to it to clean it. I did consider trying to clean the whole laser assembly in a bath of IPA but this would be an absolutely last resort.
If you have a spare BU1-C that's great and I would be interested in buying it from you.
If you only have spare BU-1 lasers that could work too but it looks like I will have to swap the RF boards.
I think the laser in my 333ESD is probably damaged by cigarette smoke. When first received this player it stank of cigarettes inside! I have cleaned the top surface of the top lens and also the underside surface of the top lens (tricky) but it hasn't helped much.
I don't remember exactly but I think I was measuring about 0.9v pk-pk for the laser eye pattern.
The player will play perhaps 1 in 3 discs part of the way through so I don't think there are any other problems, I think it is just a weak laser.
I thought it was possible that may be the photoreceptor on the laser was dirty and contaminated with nicotine residues but I cannot see a way to get to it to clean it. I did consider trying to clean the whole laser assembly in a bath of IPA but this would be an absolutely last resort.
If you have a spare BU1-C that's great and I would be interested in buying it from you.
If you only have spare BU-1 lasers that could work too but it looks like I will have to swap the RF boards.
Hi Mike,
It is BU-1.
Did you compare the cables/connections between RF-Board and Main Board?
I do not have the time for this in the moment, maybe tonight
Maybe the RF-Board can be simply kept and only the cabling has
to be adapted. This would be easy and save then.
Motor boards seem to be the same.
All the best, Salar
It is BU-1.
Did you compare the cables/connections between RF-Board and Main Board?
I do not have the time for this in the moment, maybe tonight
Maybe the RF-Board can be simply kept and only the cabling has
to be adapted. This would be easy and save then.
Motor boards seem to be the same.
All the best, Salar
Hi. The original question was never fully answered. I have trawled the internet looking for a definitive answer.
I have a cdp555esd with the BU1E. Whilst the laser is live, i suspect it is dying. The lens attempts to focus 3 times as specified (with or without a disc in the tray) but the turntable motor wont start, despite there being power to the motor board.
I have been collecting up old working players with the earlier and far more plentiful BU1C mechs, and now have 4 in stock as spares.
Looking at the C and the E side by side, they are absolutely identical. That is apart from the connectors on the rf board, and the chipset on the motor board. The laser on the E has a max power of 0.4mW, whilst my C's have max powers of either 0.4 or 0.6mW. The optical head itself though looks to be a perfect match between the two. As this is actually the main consumable item (and hence the most precious item), an definitive answer would be of huge benefit to anyone looking to keep these fine early Sonys running.
Hoping someone out there can help....
Simon
I have a cdp555esd with the BU1E. Whilst the laser is live, i suspect it is dying. The lens attempts to focus 3 times as specified (with or without a disc in the tray) but the turntable motor wont start, despite there being power to the motor board.
I have been collecting up old working players with the earlier and far more plentiful BU1C mechs, and now have 4 in stock as spares.
Looking at the C and the E side by side, they are absolutely identical. That is apart from the connectors on the rf board, and the chipset on the motor board. The laser on the E has a max power of 0.4mW, whilst my C's have max powers of either 0.4 or 0.6mW. The optical head itself though looks to be a perfect match between the two. As this is actually the main consumable item (and hence the most precious item), an definitive answer would be of huge benefit to anyone looking to keep these fine early Sonys running.
Hoping someone out there can help....
Simon
Hi Simon,
I can confirm for you that the BU-1C is compatible with the BU-1E, I've now done this transplant twice with complete success.
But before you give up on the laser in your 555ESD try cleaning the optics carefully and doing the laser adjustments.
I've also found that sometimes increasing the focus gain can solve the symptoms you're getting.
Good luck.
I can confirm for you that the BU-1C is compatible with the BU-1E, I've now done this transplant twice with complete success.
But before you give up on the laser in your 555ESD try cleaning the optics carefully and doing the laser adjustments.
I've also found that sometimes increasing the focus gain can solve the symptoms you're getting.
Good luck.
Hi Mike and thanks for your reply. That is good news!
Can i ask what you actually did when you carried out the transplants? I am guessing that this involved moving the optical pickup only due to the differences with the rf and turntable motor boards.
I hope you are right about my 555 laser although i am reluctant to fiddle with any of the servo and control presets. Everything i have ever read seems to say that you do this at your peril. Although i have a scope and most benchtop tools, i am still something of an electronics novice. Mechanical objects are generally more my area of expertise.
Looking forwards to getting my 555 up and running again.
Thanks again,
Simon
Can i ask what you actually did when you carried out the transplants? I am guessing that this involved moving the optical pickup only due to the differences with the rf and turntable motor boards.
I hope you are right about my 555 laser although i am reluctant to fiddle with any of the servo and control presets. Everything i have ever read seems to say that you do this at your peril. Although i have a scope and most benchtop tools, i am still something of an electronics novice. Mechanical objects are generally more my area of expertise.
Looking forwards to getting my 555 up and running again.
Thanks again,
Simon
Hi Simon,
Yes just transplant the laser head. The only adjustment you really shouldn't make unless you know exactly what you're doing is to adjust the laser power.
I would certainly check and adjust the Focus Bias, Focus gain, tracking gain and EF balance, especially after a laser transplant. I can help with this if you get stuck.
Yes just transplant the laser head. The only adjustment you really shouldn't make unless you know exactly what you're doing is to adjust the laser power.
I would certainly check and adjust the Focus Bias, Focus gain, tracking gain and EF balance, especially after a laser transplant. I can help with this if you get stuck.
Hi Mike.
I have carefully transplanted one of the working BU1C optical blocks (with the sled and sensor coils still attached) into the BU1E mechanism but it still does not work.
I guess that means that the old laser is still ok. When the drawer is loaded, the laser moves to the centre as it should, and the objective lens attempts to focus 3 times. It does this with or without a cd in place. Nothing further happens.
Presumably the uP is waiting for feedback from the optics before it initiates the next operation.
I have a scanned copy of the service manual that is just about legible. What do you suggest i do now?
Thanks
I have carefully transplanted one of the working BU1C optical blocks (with the sled and sensor coils still attached) into the BU1E mechanism but it still does not work.
I guess that means that the old laser is still ok. When the drawer is loaded, the laser moves to the centre as it should, and the objective lens attempts to focus 3 times. It does this with or without a cd in place. Nothing further happens.
Presumably the uP is waiting for feedback from the optics before it initiates the next operation.
I have a scanned copy of the service manual that is just about legible. What do you suggest i do now?
Thanks
As you wrote you are a novice, did you take care to short the laser diodes´voltage trace to the ground trace before unplugging anything?
Because laser diodes are prone to ESD.
This short circuiting should be done with an ESD safe solder station. There are two planes close to the laser diode to do this with a blob of solder.
After the transplant, open the connection again.
Despite being infra red you should still see a faint red dot when looking from the side when the laser powers on
Because laser diodes are prone to ESD.
This short circuiting should be done with an ESD safe solder station. There are two planes close to the laser diode to do this with a blob of solder.
After the transplant, open the connection again.
Despite being infra red you should still see a faint red dot when looking from the side when the laser powers on
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