Hi - I'm new to this. Don't know if anyone can help but I recently got a Philips CD104. It runs, shows screen info, opens and shuts cd drawer but has trouble finding the contents of a cd. I have looked at some postings regarding thd CD101 but they have not been of help to me. If anyone knows what may be an obvious problem before I start completely stripping it down I would much appreciate it. Oh - there is no circuit component id's on the boards either.
My first CD player was one of the initial CD104s in the country (the old metallic dark grey colour version).
Your problem is fairly typical of the 104. If you look inside you'll see a lot of PCBs with ribbon connectors. The cable connectors can give problems, and there are also problems with the soldered wire links from one side of the PCB to the other. There's a lot of connections to go wrong in there!
I gave up on it in the end. A pity, as the transport mechanism was a wonderful solid cast meatal one.
Your problem is fairly typical of the 104. If you look inside you'll see a lot of PCBs with ribbon connectors. The cable connectors can give problems, and there are also problems with the soldered wire links from one side of the PCB to the other. There's a lot of connections to go wrong in there!
I gave up on it in the end. A pity, as the transport mechanism was a wonderful solid cast meatal one.
cd104 fault
The fault is very likely to be caused by the wire links between the sides of the boards as mentioned earlier on this thread. Only thing is, when you look at them it's unusual to see anything wrong as they don't look like a normal dry joint. I found the best cure was to go round all the joints with a desoldering pump then remake them. Optical units on these machines have a very long life unless someone has been 'tweaking' the current settings.
The fault is very likely to be caused by the wire links between the sides of the boards as mentioned earlier on this thread. Only thing is, when you look at them it's unusual to see anything wrong as they don't look like a normal dry joint. I found the best cure was to go round all the joints with a desoldering pump then remake them. Optical units on these machines have a very long life unless someone has been 'tweaking' the current settings.
CD104
Hi,
Inspired by these posts I opened up my old CD104 which I recently inherited from my Mum. I have a different cd replay setup but had been pleasantly surprised by the old beast. Good bass, not too much sense of atmosphere and a bit hard in the top end, but pretty good
I took a look around, you can't see much from above but (assuming you have the correct torx drive) you can remove the base plate. The construction of the drive and chasis is amazing. The sides and frame appear to be one cast , with top and bottom plates bolted on.
I couldn't figure out how to remove the analog board (the lower board) even after removing the torx screws. It appeared to use 2 NE5532's. I also noted some inductors which feature in the analogue filtering section I guess.
Anyway I decided that any mods might be a bit hard so put the whole thing back together again and turned it on.
Guess what ?
Could'nt read the CD header anymore. I reopened it, checked all connections, retried. Same thing - the CD spins for a moment then displays nothing.
I was annoyed at myself for tinkering in what was a classic player that had been working. I left the player on and 30 minutes later retried . Read the CD perfectly and worked fine. I can only assume that the fault was temperature related - might be worth a try ?
Hi,
Inspired by these posts I opened up my old CD104 which I recently inherited from my Mum. I have a different cd replay setup but had been pleasantly surprised by the old beast. Good bass, not too much sense of atmosphere and a bit hard in the top end, but pretty good
I took a look around, you can't see much from above but (assuming you have the correct torx drive) you can remove the base plate. The construction of the drive and chasis is amazing. The sides and frame appear to be one cast , with top and bottom plates bolted on.
I couldn't figure out how to remove the analog board (the lower board) even after removing the torx screws. It appeared to use 2 NE5532's. I also noted some inductors which feature in the analogue filtering section I guess.
Anyway I decided that any mods might be a bit hard so put the whole thing back together again and turned it on.
Guess what ?
Could'nt read the CD header anymore. I reopened it, checked all connections, retried. Same thing - the CD spins for a moment then displays nothing.
I was annoyed at myself for tinkering in what was a classic player that had been working. I left the player on and 30 minutes later retried . Read the CD perfectly and worked fine. I can only assume that the fault was temperature related - might be worth a try ?
CD 104
Hello all, sorry if this is all too late and you've binned your 104! but have just got broadband and am getting used to unlimilted surfing!
The 104 has the best mechanism ever built (in my opinion) but was let down by the poor quality (14bit i think) processing. If this mechanism is used with a pcb offering digital output and used with a decent convertor then it begins to sound as cd should! and can knock spots off more modern units (my opinion again!).
The unit did suffer from those solder joints bridging the two sides of the pcb's becoming open circuit, as mentioned by martinab2, these were of a rivet type construction connecting one side of the pcb, the component side, which was at 0Volt potential to the solder side. The rivets over time cracked and parts of the circuit which were supposed to be at 0Volts started to "float", causing all sorts of problems!
The only way to cure this reliably is to remove all of the solder from the rivet so you have a way through the rivet and thread some tinned copper wire through and solder this on both sides.
You must, however, make sure you do them all, on both circuit boards, as chances are, the one you don't do will be the one that's causing your problem!! There is one right besides the wired audio output connections, i allways used to forget that one!
Let me know if this cures your problem. Happy listening!
Hello all, sorry if this is all too late and you've binned your 104! but have just got broadband and am getting used to unlimilted surfing!
The 104 has the best mechanism ever built (in my opinion) but was let down by the poor quality (14bit i think) processing. If this mechanism is used with a pcb offering digital output and used with a decent convertor then it begins to sound as cd should! and can knock spots off more modern units (my opinion again!).
The unit did suffer from those solder joints bridging the two sides of the pcb's becoming open circuit, as mentioned by martinab2, these were of a rivet type construction connecting one side of the pcb, the component side, which was at 0Volt potential to the solder side. The rivets over time cracked and parts of the circuit which were supposed to be at 0Volts started to "float", causing all sorts of problems!
The only way to cure this reliably is to remove all of the solder from the rivet so you have a way through the rivet and thread some tinned copper wire through and solder this on both sides.
You must, however, make sure you do them all, on both circuit boards, as chances are, the one you don't do will be the one that's causing your problem!! There is one right besides the wired audio output connections, i allways used to forget that one!
Let me know if this cures your problem. Happy listening!
philips 104
hi - I have 2 of these players. One is the older grey and one a newer black model. Both have various problems. One has a distortion on both channels (mostly on a bass note) The other has the cannot read cd problem mentioned earlier.
If anyone has a copy of the service manual, I would be most appreciative. I have a copy of a guide which appeared in television repair magazine which gives info on common faults. I am waiting for this to arrive, but anyone is welcome to a read when I get it.
cheers
quad303@ntlworld.com
hi - I have 2 of these players. One is the older grey and one a newer black model. Both have various problems. One has a distortion on both channels (mostly on a bass note) The other has the cannot read cd problem mentioned earlier.
If anyone has a copy of the service manual, I would be most appreciative. I have a copy of a guide which appeared in television repair magazine which gives info on common faults. I am waiting for this to arrive, but anyone is welcome to a read when I get it.
cheers
quad303@ntlworld.com
thanks for the reply. i have soldered all the joints and got the audio board working. im lucky cause i have 2 players so i can swap things around to see whats working and whats not.
the logic or controller board is still playing up on one player - i think its a an Lm324n chip
also the psu in one is causing distorton in the sound. might be the voltage regs on the psu are out .
i cant complain cause i got one of the players from a garbage skip - it has no little blue buttons but otherwise is cosmetically ok.
the logic or controller board is still playing up on one player - i think its a an Lm324n chip
also the psu in one is causing distorton in the sound. might be the voltage regs on the psu are out .
i cant complain cause i got one of the players from a garbage skip - it has no little blue buttons but otherwise is cosmetically ok.
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