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#11 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
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Hi Peter,
I have a 5*1543 tower I first added 3m copper tap on top of each TDA1543 with a little sticking out the side.. THEN I added heat conducting plastic (cutout from TO220 plastic..don't know what to call it) Then soldered on the next TDA143 and so on....so I have a sandwich of tda..copper tape..heat conducting plastic...tda etc, etc. And then folded the 3m copper so it would touch the next little foldout of copper...and soldered that all together. Unfortunately only on one side... Then on that one side I added a 2,5mm copper from installatiedraad...made a little shape S..as soon as it protruded from the tower BUT as you see that little copper thing broke of in the subsequent mods.(3m copper tape tore off). so on the photo the little antenna heatsink is off.. but before it broke off it worked quite well. Now...without the little "antenna" it gets so hot it that putting on your finger is uncomfortable (8vdc supplied to the TDA1543) But in the future I might try the tower with 8 and the heatsink with the Frontpage designer stuff...that is mentioned on doede's site. I suggest you add the Wildmonkeysects mod right from the begining...Doede says it make very little difference with the reclocking on but Elso Kwak says it makes a big diffrence on a non reclocking dac. Cheers, Bas |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Eindhoven
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Quote:
Take care to use clean power supply to make optimum bennefit from the XO, and makes sure all the wiring from and to the switch is twisted with a ground wire in company regards |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
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Quote:
Never occured to me to use a socket :-( So soldered in straight..I also soldered a 47r resistor straight to the 4040 thingy... Measured voltage on the signal going to the 4040 jobby and measerued 2,68vdc before going to 4040 after 47R resistor 3,6vdc??? Mean anything to anyone? Regards, Bas |
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