VRDS T-1 modification - Page 4 - diyAudio
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Old 2nd May 2008, 10:33 PM   #31
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Hi Havar,


No need to say sorry, this is the best way to learn how to modify your player/transport; by doing thing we all tried before and considering them a success!

One thing though! Not everybody likes all modifications, it's a matter of taste! e.g. I like Toyota and Lexus, you may disagree with me cause you like BMW or Nissan. So try it out and let us know if you like the sound.

All the best.



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Old 3rd May 2008, 08:47 AM   #32
havar is offline havar  Norway
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Than you for the feedback Audiofanatic.

As I really don't have a clue here, I must do some "research" first, or maybe wait until I can get it confirmed by anyone, that I am supposed to decouple both black and brown to ground, and if this little mod would work just as well on my VRDS-8, as in the T1.

I'm a bit afraid that I might damage the motor you see... It just doesn't seem like the right thing to do, decouple both + and - to the same point.

I'm willing to try a lot, but when I'm about so solder + and - to the same point, I tend to get a bit unsecure, if you know what I mean..?

Another Q: Why ceramic? Why not film or poly?
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Old 4th May 2008, 08:23 PM   #33
havar is offline havar  Norway
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OK, if anybody else should wonder about the same issue... It works just fine on the VRDS-8 as well.
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Old 4th May 2008, 11:52 PM   #34
havar is offline havar  Norway
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Quote:
Originally posted by havar
OK, if anybody else should wonder about the same issue... It works just fine on the VRDS-8 as well.
Hmm, not so sure anymore. It may turn out that this is not the same type of motor as in the T1. I found a picture from a T1, and it looks totally different.


In fear of damaging things, I'll remove the caps until somone can help me out. If the motor is of another kind, will the caps then be necessary? I thought that there was an audible difference with the caps in, but I'm not sure, and I don't know if it was for the worse, or if it made things better. I couldn't "crank it up", as we had guests in the house...

Please, if you think you can help me out here, please do!

PS: Where's the cheapest place to get manuals/schematics?
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Old 10th May 2008, 01:43 PM   #35
havar is offline havar  Norway
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Hi again!

OK, the motor in my VRDS-8 is a brush-motor. Decoupling worked fine.

However, now I've bough an old T1 as well, but as the motor isn't visible in this transport, I'm not sure where to put the caps.

Do I have to disassemble the VRDS-unit..? It's some kind of "closed" unit. In my VRDS-8, I could see the wires to the motor directly. In the T1, I can't see a thing...

Anyone..?
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Old 16th May 2008, 01:26 AM   #36
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From memory there are four of screws which retain the moulded cover on top of the VRDS mechanism. Remove these screws and lift the cover. The motor and related pcb are under the cover.

I've attached a dodgy pic of the motor and pcb with the cover removed showing where I installed a couple of 100nF polyster caps. Not sure that this is the most effective location. The blu-tak is an attempt to damp the motor bridge.
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Old 16th May 2008, 06:40 AM   #37
havar is offline havar  Norway
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Thanx spzzzzkt!

Do you know if it is essential to get the caps as close to the motor as possible? Or can I use the solderingpoints shown to the right in your picture?

Anyone..?
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Old 16th May 2008, 09:41 AM   #38
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I suspect from terminals to motor body and using a lower value cap as suggested by Guido Tent is closer to ideal than what I've done

I'm planning on pulling the existing caps and redoing the mod in the near future.
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