Thank you Jesús.
Ill try giving it all a good clean when I next get some free time to mess around with something other then my hifi, but from what I can remember the insides were very very dust free, maybe the oil has just dried up over time. Either way I will have a go at cleaning it, after all it cant hurt.
Couch Potato! you said it! I couldnt be further from that either. I have a wireless KB and mouse, with a remote control! The remote came with the TV card and allows volume adjustment. Come to mention it I can adjust volume with the mouse and KB at the same time. So three ways to alter that. A KB short cut can skip track, or a double click of a mouse can do that too!
As ive got all (well most) of my music on hard disk, I dont even have to leave my bed (I dont have a chair lol) to change the artist or CD. Couldnt get more couch potatoey, plus the thing plays my DVD's too.
So my PC gives me the need to move absolutely nowhere to change anything music wise, I've got a DVD player a TV card and radio card all in there. All accessable at the touch of a button. AND its silent you only notice it if you listen for it, you can easily sleep in the room with the comp on, you dont realise its there!
19" monitor caters for reasonably large TV screen any bigger and it would dominate the room, my speakers already do that and I dont think they would appreciate the competition
Peerless XLS10" gonna reduce the cab volume to try and combat the hugeness of the bass boxes. Who says you need a speaker the size of a fridge to get good bass without EQ, physics
thats why im adding it with the XLS HA! Eat that Einstein.
Couch Potato! you said it! I couldnt be further from that either. I have a wireless KB and mouse, with a remote control! The remote came with the TV card and allows volume adjustment. Come to mention it I can adjust volume with the mouse and KB at the same time. So three ways to alter that. A KB short cut can skip track, or a double click of a mouse can do that too!
As ive got all (well most) of my music on hard disk, I dont even have to leave my bed (I dont have a chair lol) to change the artist or CD. Couldnt get more couch potatoey, plus the thing plays my DVD's too.
So my PC gives me the need to move absolutely nowhere to change anything music wise, I've got a DVD player a TV card and radio card all in there. All accessable at the touch of a button. AND its silent you only notice it if you listen for it, you can easily sleep in the room with the comp on, you dont realise its there!
19" monitor caters for reasonably large TV screen any bigger and it would dominate the room, my speakers already do that and I dont think they would appreciate the competition
Peerless XLS10" gonna reduce the cab volume to try and combat the hugeness of the bass boxes. Who says you need a speaker the size of a fridge to get good bass without EQ, physics thats why im adding it with the XLS HA! Eat that Einstein.
Guido Tent said:
This looks like an easy and cheap mod, but let me get this straight; am I supposed du decouple both + and - to a grounded point?
Does any of you guys know if the motor in a T-1 and a VRDS-8 is the same/same type?
Thanx a lot for any help, and... sorry for bringing this old thread back to life...
Hi Havar,
No need to say sorry, this is the best way to learn how to modify your player/transport; by doing thing we all tried before and considering them a success!
One thing though! Not everybody likes all modifications, it's a matter of taste! e.g. I like Toyota and Lexus, you may disagree with me cause you like BMW or Nissan. So try it out and let us know if you like the sound.
All the best.
Audiofanatic
No need to say sorry, this is the best way to learn how to modify your player/transport; by doing thing we all tried before and considering them a success!
One thing though! Not everybody likes all modifications, it's a matter of taste! e.g. I like Toyota and Lexus, you may disagree with me cause you like BMW or Nissan. So try it out and let us know if you like the sound.
All the best.
Audiofanatic
Than you for the feedback Audiofanatic.
As I really don't have a clue here, I must do some "research" first, or maybe wait until I can get it confirmed by anyone, that I am supposed to decouple both black and brown to ground, and if this little mod would work just as well on my VRDS-8, as in the T1.
I'm a bit afraid that I might damage the motor you see... It just doesn't seem like the right thing to do, decouple both + and - to the same point.
I'm willing to try a lot, but when I'm about so solder + and - to the same point, I tend to get a bit unsecure, if you know what I mean..?
Another Q: Why ceramic? Why not film or poly?
As I really don't have a clue here, I must do some "research" first, or maybe wait until I can get it confirmed by anyone, that I am supposed to decouple both black and brown to ground, and if this little mod would work just as well on my VRDS-8, as in the T1.
I'm a bit afraid that I might damage the motor you see... It just doesn't seem like the right thing to do, decouple both + and - to the same point.
I'm willing to try a lot, but when I'm about so solder + and - to the same point, I tend to get a bit unsecure, if you know what I mean..?
Another Q: Why ceramic? Why not film or poly?
havar said:OK, if anybody else should wonder about the same issue... It works just fine on the VRDS-8 as well.
Hmm, not so sure anymore. It may turn out that this is not the same type of motor as in the T1. I found a picture from a T1, and it looks totally different.
In fear of damaging things, I'll remove the caps until somone can help me out. If the motor is of another kind, will the caps then be necessary? I thought that there was an audible difference with the caps in, but I'm not sure, and I don't know if it was for the worse, or if it made things better. I couldn't "crank it up", as we had guests in the house...
Please, if you think you can help me out here, please do!
PS: Where's the cheapest place to get manuals/schematics?
Hi again!
OK, the motor in my VRDS-8 is a brush-motor. Decoupling worked fine.
However, now I've bough an old T1 as well, but as the motor isn't visible in this transport, I'm not sure where to put the caps.
Do I have to disassemble the VRDS-unit..? It's some kind of "closed" unit. In my VRDS-8, I could see the wires to the motor directly. In the T1, I can't see a thing...
Anyone..?
OK, the motor in my VRDS-8 is a brush-motor. Decoupling worked fine.
However, now I've bough an old T1 as well, but as the motor isn't visible in this transport, I'm not sure where to put the caps.
Do I have to disassemble the VRDS-unit..? It's some kind of "closed" unit. In my VRDS-8, I could see the wires to the motor directly. In the T1, I can't see a thing...
Anyone..?
From memory there are four of screws which retain the moulded cover on top of the VRDS mechanism. Remove these screws and lift the cover. The motor and related pcb are under the cover.
I've attached a dodgy pic of the motor and pcb with the cover removed showing where I installed a couple of 100nF polyster caps. Not sure that this is the most effective location. The blu-tak is an attempt to damp the motor bridge.
I've attached a dodgy pic of the motor and pcb with the cover removed showing where I installed a couple of 100nF polyster caps. Not sure that this is the most effective location. The blu-tak is an attempt to damp the motor bridge.
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