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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: UK
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Anyone have any knowledge of it in stock form? Looks like a nice player that should stand a few mods for the future.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ingolstadt Germany
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Hi,
IŽve got one of these. Build quality is good (16kg) and there are some nice parts used in the power supply. DoesnŽt sound very good in standard form and needs a lot of work. Parts substitution is a bit difficult because of the dac7 set. There are 3 smd opamps per channel youŽll have to change plus one pair on the output board. I did this plus L-Clock02, plus Panasonic FC, plus Slit foil main caps, changed resistors, threw out output caps. Everything togheter made a huge change but it is still beaten by my Perpetual Technologies P-3A (unmodified) wich is a: cheaper than all the mods togheter b: easier to modify for further improvements Another possibility would be to build a special discrete output stage for the Marantz but because of the used chipset you canŽt get rid of all the opamps.......or just use it as a transport. william
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een ooievaar is geen konijn want zijn oren zijn te klein! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: UK
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Havent seen that in UK - probably more than i would like. Perhaps a new marantz cd7300 would be best instead, VAM 2202 with CS4396 (similar to 4397 in dac you mentioned - although implementation will be nto as good obviously) DAC
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#4 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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It is a solid transport, similar to the CD-16, and, it would be interesting to do a "modified D1 output-stage" mod...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...275#post292275 Arne K
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Ars longa, vita brevis |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: UK
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hmm, interesting. Thing is on a component that would still not be that cheap i wouldnt push my luck and just stick to a reclock and a few cap upgrades at important locations. Mind you i think it might have a seperate PCB for dac etc which might make it useful. For that kind of undertaking id probably want to pay someone for their help (my diy skills are very limited really and i woudlnt want to wreck something like that)
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#6 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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On the CD-10; most important/first change is the DC-blocking caps...: C663+C664 (47uF/25V) and C653+C654+C655+C656 (220uF/16V)
(the last four; change into two 100uF bipolar, as they are polarized back-to-back). Cheapest good-performing bi-polar caps are the yellow ones from RS-supply, Black-Gates if you can afford... Arne K
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Ars longa, vita brevis |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: UK
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OK cheers. Heard a bit about using some bi-polars as wannabe blackgates. Does anyone know if the CD72 SE is any good either? The MKII uses the DAC7 and MKI jsut SAA7350 (wonder which would be best? I havent heard many nice things about the DAC7)
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#8 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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Hi!
Not sure about the CD-72, or what laser it has... -but the main trouble with the "DAC-7" is that they all use the internal op-amps (can be bypassed). Arne K
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Ars longa, vita brevis |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: UK
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Its CDM4 /19 (i think - of which i have a few). I guess a schematic would be needed. I know that they had on board crummy op-amps and that the dac output could be taken before that - i wonder if all the marantz (CD72 MK2/CD10/CD16 etc) players used the internal op-amps?
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: denmark
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Quote:
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