Some sand in the machinery!
Ok, I have tested my Shiga Black MkII and I am really satisfied with it but I have had a minor set back (well, it is major in the meaning, I can not listen to music anymore).
Do you know that you can only solder and resolder the caps on the laser head like four times, after that the copper traces are lifting from the pcb however you do.
I had to try with a number of caps that I had laying around here at home so I sodered a cap in, desoldered it, changed and put in a new cap and so on....
in the end the copper traces couldn't take the repeated heating so they came loose and unfortunately I don't have a functional laser head no more, or at least for the moment.
Question, I have checked Ebay for both a complete laser unit, with mechanism and all and just the laser head also (I realize that it will be good to have at least two mechanisms at home to not be stranded from music and some extra laser unit) but is there anyone who have experience in the following sellers at Ebay??
It looks as genuine mechanisms or at least official replacements or is there anyone who have a better source to suggest via Ebay?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CD-VCD-Player-Pick-up-Optical-Laser-Lens-for-Sanyo-SF-P101N-16P-Version-HS904/232652912817?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649https://www.ebay.com/itm/CD-VCD-Player-Pick-up-Optical-Laser-Lens-for-Sanyo-SF-P101N-16P-Version-HS904/232652912817?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&
_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
SF-P101N CD Mechanism SFP101N 16 Pin Sanyo Version For CD Player Repairs 5060239761931 | eBay
Ok, I have tested my Shiga Black MkII and I am really satisfied with it but I have had a minor set back (well, it is major in the meaning, I can not listen to music anymore).
Do you know that you can only solder and resolder the caps on the laser head like four times, after that the copper traces are lifting from the pcb however you do.
I had to try with a number of caps that I had laying around here at home so I sodered a cap in, desoldered it, changed and put in a new cap and so on....
in the end the copper traces couldn't take the repeated heating so they came loose and unfortunately I don't have a functional laser head no more, or at least for the moment.
Question, I have checked Ebay for both a complete laser unit, with mechanism and all and just the laser head also (I realize that it will be good to have at least two mechanisms at home to not be stranded from music and some extra laser unit) but is there anyone who have experience in the following sellers at Ebay??
It looks as genuine mechanisms or at least official replacements or is there anyone who have a better source to suggest via Ebay?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CD-VCD-Player-Pick-up-Optical-Laser-Lens-for-Sanyo-SF-P101N-16P-Version-HS904/232652912817?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649https://www.ebay.com/itm/CD-VCD-Player-Pick-up-Optical-Laser-Lens-for-Sanyo-SF-P101N-16P-Version-HS904/232652912817?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&
_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
SF-P101N CD Mechanism SFP101N 16 Pin Sanyo Version For CD Player Repairs 5060239761931 | eBay
As it was mentioned several times on this thread, modding laser unit is not an easy task.
For your information, in my webshop you can buy a ready modded and tested mechanic.
I have purchased several optical units from Dalbani. These are very good and I use them in my high-grade modifications.
SF-P101N 16 PIN Original New Sanyo Laser Lens SFP101N 16 PIN | eBay
Regards,
Tibi
For your information, in my webshop you can buy a ready modded and tested mechanic.
I have purchased several optical units from Dalbani. These are very good and I use them in my high-grade modifications.
SF-P101N 16 PIN Original New Sanyo Laser Lens SFP101N 16 PIN | eBay
Regards,
Tibi
Tibi, do you mean that I should not have the fun to copy the tests that you, and many others have done??
The soldering itself is no problem, just the copper traces that can't handle the heating/reheating process. Have now ordered two new laser heads so I will have a new go when they arrive and then I will also have recieved the silver micas that I need.
Tibi, do you mean that I should not have the fun to copy the tests that you, and many others have done??
...
Than do not complain and just enjoy your diy.
Regards,
Tibi
Than do not complain and just enjoy your diy.
Regards,
Tibi
It was never ment as a complain, just a simple conclusion.
I never complain about my diy because it is my hobby and I love it, just that sometime when you are too curious then things cost a little more.
I had bookmarked this post. I just hope there are more pics on the soldering of the new caps to replace the 2 x5r's on ribbon, like the next post for the new mech.
Thanks,
Perhaps, you can trace to the "pins" and solder the caps there instead of using the tiny copper pads.
Have (diy) fun!!
SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I HAVE MUSIC and just a stock cd mech at the moment!!
Shiga/Subbu DAC/Pass B1 clone/Decware SE84C/Mission Freedoms[old]. This is going to be GOOD!! Thanks for all your help Tibi!. Turns out the CD deck I was using did not have the right ribbon cable connector!! Since I had the motor cable working [weeks ago] I think everything else was also just no connection. Have you seen this deck with other type 16 pin connector? Anyway I need to mod this deck with good ribbon cable socket now and lubricate the drive for the big WOW!
best regards,
Steve
Shiga/Subbu DAC/Pass B1 clone/Decware SE84C/Mission Freedoms[old]. This is going to be GOOD!! Thanks for all your help Tibi!. Turns out the CD deck I was using did not have the right ribbon cable connector!! Since I had the motor cable working [weeks ago] I think everything else was also just no connection. Have you seen this deck with other type 16 pin connector? Anyway I need to mod this deck with good ribbon cable socket now and lubricate the drive for the big WOW!
best regards,
Steve
Four caps on laser head and wow!
I succeded in getting four caps on the laser head, so far so good.
Small question though, I have the LT 1085-5 that we discussed earlier instead of 1086 but the 1085 is able to deliver 3 amps, could these work even for V1 and V2?
Just want to try meanwile building two Reflektor D.
I succeded in getting four caps on the laser head, so far so good.
Small question though, I have the LT 1085-5 that we discussed earlier instead of 1086 but the 1085 is able to deliver 3 amps, could these work even for V1 and V2?
Just want to try meanwile building two Reflektor D.
To BMW850, did you ever get this sorted out??
I have noticed the same sound coming from my Shiga but it seem to be static electricity but I can't pin point why and how.
I am still running with the magnetic clamp and I don't know if it can be static charging from dry air and the plastic but I can get rid of it by taking clamp and disc and hold it towards ground and then it disappear for some time but I don't know for shure.
Just my two cents on this matter.
This evening I did try the PSU that Dimkasta came up with involving 2 x LM317 in serie and I am really impressed by that solution, it gave the music a new dimension. Ok, not the biggest Wow and holy sh-t reaction but I can verify Dimkastas notes about a more "black" background, really nice I must say.
The music come out really relaxed and without any strain, just plain music from..... nowhere.
Now the Shiga is on repeat for the night (and weekend) and we will se if I start soften the caps during the weekend, then we take another step putting in some V1-V4.
I am also going to order a Tentlabs low jitter clock to do the clock tweak then I will start thinking of a proper enclosure for my Shiga Clone. I have considered an external clock but right now I am out of funding so I stick with the next best.
To Tibi, Eric, Dimkasta and everyone else who have been involved in developing and testing different solutions for the Shiga Clone, a really big thank you and I take my hat of for you all even if I am not really done with my Shiga, you all deserve it.
Hey,
Since I have Tibi's Shiga reborn, I also plan to give the original (JVC) Shigaclone to my brother. There seems to be somewhat tight space between the laser and the board. Do you happen to have some pictures of the laser mods in the original Shigaclone?
Thanks!!
Hi Fred
It’s a headache of a job isn’t it? But also one of things you get better at every time you do it - my next one will be perfect first go!
So with the caps that I am using on the tape you can see the Arcotronics is laying flat and the silver mica lays the other way - so even standing up it is just below the height of the pcb. Take care also with the silver mica bypass on the trimmer - I have had to bend mine perpendicular to avoid the cap that is now in the C906 position. This mechanism has a few skipping issues and I suspect the small vibrations from the motor spinning mean a dodgy contact point at one of the new caps so I need to touch the iron back to my joints to make sure they are sound. Then of course once I am happy then I will use the hot glue to make sure everything stays where it should.
On the laser pins you may see an extra bit of lead under the Vishay - this is where I had to repair the trace to that pin after my overheating pulled it clear of the pcb.
Clayton
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Can you get disappointed with a Shiga?
I have done the moddings recommended and all the time I have been positively surprised but today I hit rock.
I installed V3 and V4 with lt 1085-50 and the whole sound image changed, from a solid wall that has only gotten wider and bigger by every change, into the speakers. What a bummer!
I hope it will change back to the wide room again when it has been running for a number of hours but it was a real disappointment for ones.
I don't know if it will improve if I change V1 and V2 also but I get that impression from what they are regulating.
Tomorrows work, now si work all night.
I have done the moddings recommended and all the time I have been positively surprised but today I hit rock.
I installed V3 and V4 with lt 1085-50 and the whole sound image changed, from a solid wall that has only gotten wider and bigger by every change, into the speakers. What a bummer!
I hope it will change back to the wide room again when it has been running for a number of hours but it was a real disappointment for ones.
I don't know if it will improve if I change V1 and V2 also but I get that impression from what they are regulating.
Tomorrows work, now si work all night.
Thanks for the pictures, Clayton.
LOL, I dodged (or should I say avoid gutlessly) to use 2 unknown (but very very low ESR and ESL, according to the Deree meter) Mouser purchased polyester caps to the Vref and Vcc decoupling due to the smaller sizes. These caps still make a big wow improvement in the pick up connected to the MK I board.
I also pulled the Vref copper trace by accident. So, I had to repair it by
1. solder one leg of the cap to the ribbon, and
2. solder a wire from the cap to pin 9 of the chip.
It is good for now. I will work on a new pick up with silver mica when I gain back my confident to tackle this area again
FWIW, I also replaced some caps to follow Tibi's choice of parts!!
LOL, I dodged (or should I say avoid gutlessly) to use 2 unknown (but very very low ESR and ESL, according to the Deree meter) Mouser purchased polyester caps to the Vref and Vcc decoupling due to the smaller sizes. These caps still make a big wow improvement in the pick up connected to the MK I board.
I also pulled the Vref copper trace by accident. So, I had to repair it by
1. solder one leg of the cap to the ribbon, and
2. solder a wire from the cap to pin 9 of the chip.
It is good for now. I will work on a new pick up with silver mica when I gain back my confident to tackle this area again
FWIW, I also replaced some caps to follow Tibi's choice of parts!!
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Congratulation, Steve !
So far I did not see any CD deck that is not standard. I even tested Sony and Samsung Cd mechanics. All have same 16 pin connector.
Regards,
Tibi
LT1085-5 will work in V1 and V2 position as well, but take note that more Amperes do not mean same noise.
Regards,
Tibi