Shigaclone MKII Black - The builders Thread

Hi all,
I am having trouble with the header for 18P ribbon cable for LCD. Pin alignment is only correct on bottom of main board and display side of LCD board. Main board I can work with but it seems on LCD display direct solder is only option. I guess I could do 2 single rows of pin and socket? Has anyone else seen this or am I totally missing something??? Using TE/Conn female header with male wire IDC housing. Unable to find part number in original BOM from US suppliers. [Molex picoflex the same deal] Thanks for any help!!

Steve
 
Dear friends,
Here you see the changes to long flat cable between the board and screen . Looks great with rainbow colors flat cable :)
nbivol
Here is my approach, you just have to bent one row of pins
 

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Hi Tibi,

I wanted to try out this clock on my bone stock shiga mk2. What needs to be done for this clock to work? This clock has its own power supply.

Low jitter tube clock for CD,upgrade,ECC88 16,9344mhz | eBay

Regards,

Tubo

Hi Tubo,

You need to remove crystal and C57, C58. Use XO3 to input clock.
Take care that "low jitter clock" output level is 5V not 3,3V ?
On other hand, I strongly suggest you to save your money and buy a real low jitter clock like Neutrino 2 or Neutron 2.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Hi Tibi and any other Reflektor D users,
RD cold starts higher V but drops as heats up. Starts at 5.12V[5.14] cold but settles around 5.05/5.06 warm which has me in the 100mV of the 2 miniregs I am using [5.0/5.02V]. Will this be a problem or should I try to trim some mV off Reflektor D? Thanks!
best regards,
Steve
 
Member
Joined 2016
Paid Member
Some recent additions to my Shiga - had the parts for ages just not the time

- LT1086 regs (with 47uf tants) in V1 and V2. (I have 1 x Salas RD if I were to choose V1 would be the better placement for this from memory?) I have your mini-regs in V3 & 4. (Had an issue on first restart as I had forgotten tants have polarity!!)

- fitted r-core trafo

- also added 0.1uf PIO cap to motor and added silver mica bypass to Vishay cap on laser pins as per your recent posts. (I still have originally recommended Arcotronics cap in position where I see you now also the same Vishay as the laser pins.)

= Nice additions

Have to keep looking out the window so see if heavy vehicle is rumbling by ... only to find that it was in the music. Lots of space between the bass and the mids is how I would describe it and I dont think it was quite as pronounced before these additions - initially I found it distracting but I am new getting excited by it.

Now need to get some 1206 smd resistors in order to put the LT1086adj in the PSU.

Tibi, I find the heatsink on the reg in the PSU is much warmer now. Would you expect this now that V1-4 are all filled and running from the one PSU? At some point I will run V1 & 2 from separate PSU but for now it will do. Is it possible to buy your small Shiga PSU separately?

Just need a vanilla Shiga Black to compare with now!!

In the future - saving for a Dueland Cast for C8, bronze puck and for a lark I have some Isobel Hutte wire that I plan to make 100r and 300r output resistors (currently Charcroft naked)

Finally, you also promised some pics of the U5 mod you describe about 10 post back. I too would be interested to see this implementation. Thanks.
 
Hi Tibi and any other Reflektor D users,
RD cold starts higher V but drops as heats up. Starts at 5.12V[5.14] cold but settles around 5.05/5.06 warm which has me in the 100mV of the 2 miniregs I am using [5.0/5.02V]. Will this be a problem or should I try to trim some mV off Reflektor D? Thanks!
best regards,
Steve

It is normal to have a small temperature drift on Salas Reflector D. No need to trim.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Hi nbivol if you see this you posted pictures on #1384 of shiga with RD's and the grounds came back to a 4 terminal plug between motor and power plugs. Where or how did you tie the RD's into the board ground from the 4 pin terminal?? I know they need to all return to common according to tibi diagram. Thanks for any input!

best regards,
Steve
 
Member
Joined 2016
Paid Member
Got a few promo versions of cds which will be CDr of some variety however they do not not read TOC on Shiga Black. I can't tell you anymore about the CDrs eg. R/W speeds used etc.

I'm not particularly bothered by this as they have ripped to my computer ok so I can access the music elsewhere but I am curious about the read success of CDRs the Shiga Black.

Tibi, can you please comment. Thanks.
 
Got a few promo versions of cds which will be CDr of some variety however they do not not read TOC on Shiga Black. I can't tell you anymore about the CDrs eg. R/W speeds used etc.

I'm not particularly bothered by this as they have ripped to my computer ok so I can access the music elsewhere but I am curious about the read success of CDRs the Shiga Black.

Tibi, can you please comment. Thanks.

Shiga MKII is able to read any CD format. Check you ribbon cable, use a contact spray to enhance ribbon contact, clean focus lens, make sure the mechanic is very tight connected to a heavy support.
Use good CD-R quality type A not type B. FYI, Taiyo Yuden is type A.
In linux or Mac, rip your CD's with cdparanoia or asunder and burn them with cdrecord.
In windows, rip and burn with EAC.


Regards,
Tibi
 
Member
Joined 2016
Paid Member
Shiga MKII is able to read any CD format. Check you ribbon cable, use a contact spray to enhance ribbon contact, clean focus lens, make sure the mechanic is very tight connected to a heavy support.
Use good CD-R quality type A not type B. FYI, Taiyo Yuden is type A.
In linux or Mac, rip your CD's with cdparanoia or asunder and burn them with cdrecord.
In windows, rip and burn with EAC.


Regards,
Tibi

Thanks for your return Tibi. You must feel like a broken record some of the time.

The first 3 easy for me (ribbon cable, contact spray, lens clean). Heavy support for mechanic will have to wait for enclosure mk2.

Much appreciate your patient support.
 
Received my kit from Vicol some days ago. Made a test mounting on a board.
It was running well. Started on the recommended mods. Attached Pics of the
laser pin area, after soldering. (taken through a Zeiss dental microscope)
I have replaced the smd cap with ero 1837 100nF.
Transport starts running but does not read toc.
Attached a pic of laser at startup, to verify it is not fried.
May I ask for help to sort out what went wrong ?
 

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