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Old 21st August 2014, 01:28 AM   #771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guarnera View Post
The amp does have signal caps, they just aren't electrolytic. I replaces 4 electrolytic caps with MCap Poly tube caps. Electrolytic caps are evil. About my Shiga, I call it "THE Anchor". It's heavy. I believe in Mass/weight, = less vibration. I had some thick copper laying around in my shop. So I made a box with a 1.5" thick,x 6" long x 3.25" wide copper plate for the bottom, with .5" thick x 6"long,x 4" high Bronze plates on the sides, and .5"x 4.5"x 4" copper plate on the back. All bolted together with brass socket head cap screws. The main board is mounted on the back copper plate, and the CD mechanics is mounted inside at the top of the box on .5" x .75" x 2.5" copper stand off I made, which bolt to the box through the bottom and side. The mechanics is mounted to the standoffs with a grunge buster washer between the standoff and mechanics, and one on top, with a copper washer on top of that, held in place with a brass screw. Even the brd is held on with brass screws, copper washers and nylon standoffs. Now I have to make the box for it, to match the ones I made for the amp and it's power supply. When I'm done I will post pictures. Thanks for listening.


Hi Guarnena,

Mass - vibration recalls me of my long time project dealing with Lenco 75 with huge layered plywood. That:

Sanyo mechanism very similar to Ideal roller Turntable - Lenco 75, 301,401 - needs mass or solid plint.

CDM very similar to LP12, suspension and light weight.

I have 2 small pieces of corian (imitation marbel) which I plan to use as top cover for this project. I can't make entire chassis out of metal material because don't have the machine to cut accordingly except drilling some holes. I happened to come across someone selling locally a Harmond enclosure. This case, I will replace the cover with if possible -thick corain, or otherwise acrylic which cutting is not an issue. The mechanism will mount from bottom of the cover, and the mainboard will sit inside the enclosure. Still, I have issue to cut for the LCD board. I bet your Shigaclone will looks mighty and awesome since resonance is your main concern. Please share your progress here.

All the best.

Last edited by alfred wan; 21st August 2014 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 21st August 2014, 07:31 AM   #772
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I am also working on something to add some more mass to the metal platform and damp it from vibrations a bit
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Old 23rd August 2014, 02:34 AM   #773
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Default I Screwed Up.

Well, things were going just fine. I finished the laser mods, everything worked fine, and it sounded great. Until I decided to change C8 to my Copper foil V.Cap. I pulled the EVO cap and soldered in the V-Cap. Nothing. Would not read disk, or do anything. Just two zero's in the display. So I inspected, soldered it again to make sure, still nothing. So I put the EVO back in, and it worked again. Not wanting to give up, I measured the V-Cap. .1uf exactly. Put it back in, still nothing. I removed it and put the EVO back. Now, nothing with the EVO cap in place. Buy now I completely lifted the pad from C8 to pin 10 on LA9242M. I put a little jumper from the copper trace going to pin 10 to the end of C8, so I know I have a connection from C8 to pin 10 on the LA9242M. The trace from the other end of C8 is OK and makes connection with c30, c36, and c37 etc. Still nothing. I'm stuck. I don't know what to do. I don't wand to mess up the Board anymore, and I can't get it to work.
Tibi,
Is there anyway I can buy another main board, high grade, that works, and I'll leave the C8 cap alone. I promise!
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Old 23rd August 2014, 06:44 AM   #774
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Default Scew Up

I'm looking at the brd. under a microscope, and doing a little buzzing. One end of C8 goes only to pin 10 of LA9242A and no where else according to the schematic. I had that connection. I know, because I buzzed it from the cap lead to pin 10. The other end of C8 follows a trace that seems to go to all the places shown on the schematic. So why can't I get it to work? Banging head on work bench. I would hate to have to scrap this brd. It's a high grade, and it has a lot of good parts on it. And it's gonna be really tight trying to get up enough $$$ for a new high grade brd. Sh&t, I should of left well enough alone, but who would of thought that a simple cap swap would cause so much trouble. Figures, I was to happy, when I did the laser mods, and they worked.
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Old 23rd August 2014, 08:41 AM   #775
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Can you post a photo of the board?
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Old 23rd August 2014, 03:34 PM   #776
nbivol is offline nbivol  Turkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guarnera View Post
Well, things were going just fine. I finished the laser mods, everything worked fine, and it sounded great. Until I decided to change C8 to my Copper foil V.Cap. I pulled the EVO cap and soldered in the V-Cap. Nothing. Would not read disk, or do anything. Just two zero's in the display. So I inspected, soldered it again to make sure, still nothing. So I put the EVO back in, and it worked again. Not wanting to give up, I measured the V-Cap. .1uf exactly. Put it back in, still nothing. I removed it and put the EVO back. Now, nothing with the EVO cap in place. Buy now I completely lifted the pad from C8 to pin 10 on LA9242M. I put a little jumper from the copper trace going to pin 10 to the end of C8, so I know I have a connection from C8 to pin 10 on the LA9242M. The trace from the other end of C8 is OK and makes connection with c30, c36, and c37 etc. Still nothing. I'm stuck. I don't know what to do. I don't wand to mess up the Board anymore, and I can't get it to work.
Tibi,
Is there anyway I can buy another main board, high grade, that works, and I'll leave the C8 cap alone. I promise!
Do the CD spins ? It can be also the laser fault after modified.Try to change it with an unmodified if you have one.
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Old 23rd August 2014, 05:24 PM   #777
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Default Screw up

I have a hard time posting photo's. Please don't ask. The brd is a pre assembled and tested high grade brd. Looks standard except where I lifted the pad. I don't have a non modified mechanics to try. As it stand now the CD does not spin, just two zero's on the display. If it is the mechanics, then it's intermittent. It played fine after the mod, and after I hot glued the parts down. And after I put the EVO cap back in the first time. But know nothing. If you think its the mechanics, I'll order a couple more. Any help, or theory's would be appreciated. Thank you all.

Tony G
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Old 23rd August 2014, 07:55 PM   #778
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Tony,

Please check ribbon cable to be properly inserted on both ends.

Regards,
Tibi

PS. Sorry for late response. I'm in a area with limited internet access.
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Old 23rd August 2014, 09:52 PM   #779
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Originally Posted by tvicol View Post
Tony,

Please check ribbon cable to be properly inserted on both ends.

Regards,
Tibi

PS. Sorry for late response. I'm in a area with limited internet access.
Hi Tibi,
The ribbon cable is fine. I have ordered 5 new mechanics, so I will have a known working mechanics. What I could use is a couple of more ribbon cables from brd. to motor of mechanics. The 6 wire one with the white connector on each end. I had some wires break from taking in and out to much, and had to repair. But just in case it is part of the problem, I'd like to avoid as many variable as I can. So if you pay pal me an invoice for 2 or 3 more of these cables I will get that plus shipping to you ASAP. Let me know if you need my email if you don't have it on file. Thanks.

Sincerely,
Tony G.
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Old 25th August 2014, 08:24 AM   #780
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Hi Tony,

Please write me a mail with all the parts you need.

Regards,
Tibi
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