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Old 19th June 2014, 06:53 PM   #441
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Click the image to open in full size.

I got the puck working.
It took a bit of sanding.
I used grain 100 and 280 cut a very thin piece of sanding paper couple of mm and sand the inner alu pen stroke bij stroke all around...very tedious work but it pays of. (Approx 20 minutes)

Finally a bit of vaseline and you can lower and remove the puck without the slightest stress on the spindle.

Good work TIBI
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Old 19th June 2014, 06:53 PM   #442
Turbon is offline Turbon  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvicol View Post
I had a look again and seems to be 2N4403 - ( marked PJ66)
I'm not sure if R46 is proper soldered.
And please make again few high resolution pictures. Try to use macro when you take pictures and get better focus. I want to see ribbon connector and ic's pins.

Regards,
Tibi
Hi, I'll see if I can borrow a macrolens.

Had a look at every solder at 10X and resoldered everything that looked suspicious including R46. Didn't find any really bad ones.
Measured the J1 connector. Is from the text J1 CD Deck no6 and no8 supposed to be shorted?

You see, a schematic would be useful to have...

Erik, good work


Regards
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Last edited by Turbon; 19th June 2014 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 19th June 2014, 07:27 PM   #443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvicol View Post
My turner tried to make it perfect. It is to tight that will not allow air to enter in spindle gap.
Shave the aluminum a little and will work just fine.

Regards,
Tibi
So there is such a thing as too perfect..
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Old 20th June 2014, 06:10 AM   #444
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik van Voorst View Post
So there is such a thing as too perfect..
Indeed, the inner puck is so tight than will act like a piston in a cylinder and will not allow air to enter or get out, so you need to apply force which may affect turntable.
Interesting is that I have several mechanics on which such puck work easily. It is a tolerance mentioned in datasheet.
Thanks Erik, this will help others to get a better puck.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 20th June 2014, 06:32 AM   #445
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbon View Post
Hi, I'll see if I can borrow a macrolens.

Had a look at every solder at 10X and resoldered everything that looked suspicious including R46. Didn't find any really bad ones.
Measured the J1 connector. Is from the text J1 CD Deck no6 and no8 supposed to be shorted?

You see, a schematic would be useful to have...

Erik, good work


Regards
No short between J1 pin 6 and 8.
Regards,
Tibi
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Old 20th June 2014, 07:11 AM   #446
Turbon is offline Turbon  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvicol View Post
No short between J1 pin 6 and 8.
Regards,
Tibi
No, but between 9 and 11. So if one counts wrongly as I did with pin1 furthest away from the IC one could believe it was 6 and 8.

I compared the laser on new and old shiga and they seem to be equal in strenght. So the laser seems to work - at least the ld part. I assume that the pickup circuits are the same on old and new shigas? Is the attachment about the new one?

Regards
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Last edited by Turbon; 20th June 2014 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 20th June 2014, 07:13 AM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvicol View Post
Indeed, the inner puck is so tight than will act like a piston in a cylinder and will not allow air to enter or get out, so you need to apply force which may affect turntable.
Interesting is that I have several mechanics on which such puck work easily. It is a tolerance mentioned in datasheet.
Thanks Erik, this will help others to get a better puck.

Regards,
Tibi
The new puck fits better on my old shiga.

Regards
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Old 20th June 2014, 07:14 AM   #448
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Yepp, I had a batch of mechanics which were Identical but I can remember That I had to correct the inner whole of a Marigo cd in order to fit while my friend could use it straight away.
The same diameter deviations can be found on cd.!!...Redbook Heritage brrrrrrrrr
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Old 20th June 2014, 07:23 AM   #449
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbon View Post
No, but between 9 and 11. So if one counts wrongly as I did with pin1 furthest away from the IC one could believe it was 6 and 8.

I compared the laser on new and old shiga and they seem to be equal in strenght. So the laser seems to work - at least the ld part. I assume that the pickup circuits are the same on old and new shigas? Is the attachment about the new one?

Regards
Yep, attachment is the MKII.
Did you tried with a different mechanic or another ribbon cable ?
Some ribbon cables will not make contact unless you clean them.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 20th June 2014, 08:15 AM   #450
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No, this is the only standalone mech I have until the one from you arrives.
But the schema will keep me occupied for a few hours tonight
I will check the ribbon cable very closely as well.

Regards
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