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Old 11th May 2014, 12:09 PM   #21
Turbon is offline Turbon  Sweden
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Sorry C43 - 220uF and yes C28 - 2.2uF is missing as well. I got one extra 47uF tantal and 2 10uF elecs.

I don't have any clue if they are missing in others kits - sorry if so.

Regards
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Old 11th May 2014, 02:02 PM   #22
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbon View Post
Hi Tibi.

Regarding the tantalums, electrolythics and others.
Reading the bom, occational words and looking at different pictures of where they should go is quite impossible. In most pics there are two green electrolyts. I have one as C28 is missing 220uF if i remember right. In the pics there are no 10uF elecs, I got 5 or 6 in the kit. Which tantalums can be replaced with these as I am missing tantals to fill the board.

Please elaborate on these please.

Regards
Hi Turbon,

Look for a tantalum 220uF. Solder this on laser CCS / C10. The green 220uF on C43 position.
About 10uF - C2 must be tantalum. C48, C51, C52 on main board. C67 on display board and C1 on IR board.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 11th May 2014, 02:09 PM   #23
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbon View Post
Sorry C43 - 220uF and yes C28 - 2.2uF is missing as well. I got one extra 47uF tantal and 2 10uF elecs.

I don't have any clue if they are missing in others kits - sorry if so.

Regards
You should have two 2.2uF tantalum capacitors for C28 and C38. All KIT packages got exactly same parts.
47uF tantalum is a critical part and must be placed on C19.
I suggest you to solder all parts, if something is missing I'll send to you.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 11th May 2014, 06:51 PM   #24
Turbon is offline Turbon  Sweden
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Thank you for your answer Tibi.

"About 10uF - C2 must be tantalum. C48, C51, C52 on main board. C67 on display board and C1 on IR board."
-By this you mean that C48, C51, C52 on main board, C67 on display board and C1 on IR board can be elecs? Since I got one extra 10uF tantal I have put it at C52.
I have one extra 47uF tantal but no 220uF tantal and got only one 2.2uF tantal...

Could you comment on and have pics on the PSU board about C64/65/66? And what about the big grey 100nF MKP, on one of your large hirez pics it is on the main board? The holes doesn't fit

"I suggest you to solder all parts, if something is missing I'll send to you."

Thank you! I think the 100pF C2/3 for the remote are missing too. Lets wait until I got everything in place first to get the total balance before you send anything

Thanks and regards
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Last edited by Turbon; 11th May 2014 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 11th May 2014, 07:12 PM   #25
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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C48, C51, C52 on main board, C67 on display board and C1 on IR board must be 10uF electrolitics.

Do you measure the parts ?

Here are recommended values for standard power supply.
C64 = 1000-2200uF/ min 10V
C63 = 2200-4700uF/ min 16V

C62 = 100nF MKP

C66 = 1nF silver-mica or 1nF NP0 or 10nF X5R

The big Grey 100nF must be on power supply.
In your KIT you have a 0.1uF tantalum which must be placed on highly debated C8 and holes will fit.
If you want something more "exotic" than go for Mundorf silver-gold-oil or Duelund cast.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 11th May 2014, 08:09 PM   #26
Turbon is offline Turbon  Sweden
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Yes, bought me an LCR meter. The parts has been measured.

Regards
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Old 12th May 2014, 11:23 AM   #27
Turbon is offline Turbon  Sweden
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BTW, this is the picture I'm reffering to - C8=MKP 100nF, no 10uF elecs - only tantals...: Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12th May 2014, 12:02 PM   #28
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbon View Post
BTW, this is the picture I'm reffering to - C8=MKP 100nF, no 10uF elecs - only tantals...:
Yep, that is the famous C8. Standard is 0.1uF tantalum.
In picture I used an Arcotronics.
In the high-grade version I use Mundorf silver-gold-oil.
I saw some people used Duelund cast.

10uF tantalum are even better.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 13th May 2014, 03:12 PM   #29
Turbon is offline Turbon  Sweden
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Ok, nothing new since last sunset or a few sunsets... No new builders. Is it just Tibi, Danzup and me? Follow the pic as I referred to will not give the answers, Tibis joy over an old famous picture doesn't really help as that is the picture he pointed out to follow. And now we have a standard an a high-grade kit so which one did we buy? Tibi - get your act together. Go for 2 boms - one high-grade and one low-grade. Now, so everyone can put these together an get a functional system! Then we can start to play and test things - othervise it will just be dirty and foul.
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Last edited by Turbon; 13th May 2014 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 13th May 2014, 05:16 PM   #30
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Turbon,

There are at least two other people who finished building SHIGA MKII. Maybe too busy with listening music.

Please post here a high res picture with what you have mounted so far.

Some people prefer to have all upgrades already installed. For them now I have the high-grade version.
High grade version include:
- Mundorf Silver-Gold OIL capacitor for C8
- Vishay naked foil resistors for sp/dif divider
- Sanyo organic, silver-mica and kemet tantlum capacitors
- Tentlabs low jitter XO
- 2 low noise LDO miniregulators
- main power supply with LT1086adj
Beside this, all soldering is made with Mundorf Silver-Gold.

Obviously parts used in high-grade are not cheap, but anyone can upgrade to this later. Also, construction of high-grade version will be detailed on this thread.

Turbon, you have standard bomb, which can be upgraded to atomic bomb. Yes atomic, an Rb atomic clock is on the way.

Regards,
Tibi

Last edited by tvicol; 13th May 2014 at 05:22 PM.
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