Hi there!
Had to remove connectors from flat cable connecting motor and PCB. Now I'm wondering if i got the ends reversed... The player did not start /find CD.
Does cable first lead go from motor 1 pin to control board 1 pin? Shown in pics with a red arrow.
Thanks!
Had to remove connectors from flat cable connecting motor and PCB. Now I'm wondering if i got the ends reversed... The player did not start /find CD.
Does cable first lead go from motor 1 pin to control board 1 pin? Shown in pics with a red arrow.
Thanks!
Attachments
So it seems the cables are right after all. But still the player does not read any CD... Any suggestions?
See link to see in more detail how the player works/does not work.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/v4uUjAa5LeEVGBKfA
Ps. I've already made one that works - so this is a mystery... Can the C8 capacitor polarity make a difference? Put in a Jupiter Red Aston 0.1uF cap, but not sure if it went in the same way as with the first transport (outer winding in same direction)
See link to see in more detail how the player works/does not work.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/v4uUjAa5LeEVGBKfA
Ps. I've already made one that works - so this is a mystery... Can the C8 capacitor polarity make a difference? Put in a Jupiter Red Aston 0.1uF cap, but not sure if it went in the same way as with the first transport (outer winding in same direction)
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Ok - I seemed to have solved the problem. After A LOT trying and testing, I tried my old laser pick up with the new mechanism - and it worked!!
So then I was going to buy some more lasers from Ebay and at one site there was a pic saying: "Remove this solder bulb" Aargh!!#¤ Yes, that solder bulb! I had forgotten all about it! So after removing it, what do you know: works fine. So all is fine now, but did take some time and anguish.
So then I was going to buy some more lasers from Ebay and at one site there was a pic saying: "Remove this solder bulb" Aargh!!#¤ Yes, that solder bulb! I had forgotten all about it! So after removing it, what do you know: works fine. So all is fine now, but did take some time and anguish.
Thank you Tom. I tried new ribbon cables when the problems started, it had no effect and the cleaning the contacts didn't work. Also The Vref was 2.50V the whole time. I cleaned the Shiga mainboard with isopropyl alcohol and brushed it well. I don't know if there could have been a solder flake from desoldering or if the left over flux could have caused problems. I got two new mechanism from a different seller. Hooked everything up, hit play, everything worked. I was waiting when the laser pick up stops working again. It's been in use for maybe 20 hours already without issues, I think it's fixed now. I have no idea if it was just bad luck with the mechanisms, the quality has gone to ****, I wish I could get the same mechas Tibi used to sell with Shiga, they lasted years of use.
I am in love with this transport, it finally sounds exactly how I want. Been playing with different components, regulators and transformers for so long, I have a pretty good idea how to shape the sound. The last modification, installing the Mundorf 4pin cap to Salas ref-d mini, using Wayne's PCB that is designed for those capacitors, made a huge difference. I was expecting that, ref-d is very sensitive to those capacitors, I experienced the same change in dynamics and in bass when I used the same reg and same cap for my SD-transport.
Next I will fabricate the enclosure, the mounting plate and decoupling feet are already done and I will receive the Hammond enclosure for the oscillator today.
Here a pic of the build still in the making/testing. But you can see that I've flipped the control PCB 'upside down' to get it to fit into a smaller enclosure. Before this was the enclosure of the "original" Shigaclone and I wanted to keep it, so I had to figure out a way to make it fit so that the flat cable can run freely. A tip for other builders also.
Hello i have some questions about shiga power suply. I have 3 lifepo4 batteries packs i thinking to use them in this way:
- one 10v batteries pack will power my external 16mhz clock
-second 13v baterie pack will power lt1086 adjusted on 8v
-third 10v batteries pack will power up all four shigas 5v stabilizers.
Please tell me. All four stabilizers are 5v? This os not problem that they are powering not fro 8v shigas pads?
To power shiga by 4 stabilizers i dont mount L2,L3,L5 and L9 ? off corse L8 i dont solder to. Rest of L need to solder? Very thanks!
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- one 10v batteries pack will power my external 16mhz clock
-second 13v baterie pack will power lt1086 adjusted on 8v
-third 10v batteries pack will power up all four shigas 5v stabilizers.
Please tell me. All four stabilizers are 5v? This os not problem that they are powering not fro 8v shigas pads?
To power shiga by 4 stabilizers i dont mount L2,L3,L5 and L9 ? off corse L8 i dont solder to. Rest of L need to solder? Very thanks!
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I have searing everywhere no shortcuts. Capacitors are ok. Every chip have gnd where they must have. Ribon or optic kable no shortcuts.. LC and LA chips soldered properly. Every leg is okey. It is pasible that i have overheated them? I have soldered by iron on 400 degrees, and when legs have soldered together i have use disoldering copper.