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Old 14th May 2002, 10:45 PM   #21
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Arrrggg Didn't hope that I would need spare parts so fast, but...

and yes it has caused by a bad mod.

Symtoms:
At power on, the VC pin (from the control board to the motorboard) is around 0v and slowy raises to 1.25v. I have checked the input voltages and they seem to be ok (8v, 5v, -5v, -12v)

I guess I fried the TDA5708 and possibly also the TDA5709. Am I way of course or do I need go looking for those ICs? If so were can I find them?
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Old 14th May 2002, 11:43 PM   #22
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Hi,

Maybe i can help if you can be a bit more specific about your problem. What is not working, disk spinning, focus or laser ?

Got an old Philips 650 with CDM2 transport and the servicemanual for it. This unit also contains the 57xx chips.

It must be possible to pin-point the defective parts by doing more measuring following the servicemanual.

laser control = 5708,
radial arm control = 5709
disk spinning control = 7210

Reply with some more info and maybe i can help,

Guido
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Old 14th May 2002, 11:58 PM   #23
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It's the speed control that is the problem.

You can get it spinning if you help it start, but it doesn't get to any usable speed and it's keep spinning.

So it must be the 7210?

Nope, it's just me.

I didn't think that the 7210 had anything to do with spinning. I have an external power supply for my clock and no I did'nt turn it on because it didn't think it had anything to do with spinning.

No clock = no spinning = me felling very stupid.

I think the world would be a safer place if I just went to bed
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Old 30th December 2002, 04:12 PM   #24
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Question Lubrification?

Hi Mr. Feedback,
As you have much experience in repairing CDP's I take the liberty to ask for some advice.
After I replaced the laserunit in my Sony CDPX33 ESD I found it was skipping. After examining the steel rod that functions as a glider for the lasercarriage I found it has become dull. I polished it with household Brasso and things went much better.
What do you advice to use as lubrification for the rod? The carriage has brass that fits tightly around the rod.
I used Molykote before but I have the impression it makes the rod dull. Now I am using Teflon, used as a engine motor oil additive.
What lubrification do you advice? Gear box oil???
Thanks in advance,
Happy newyear,
ELSO
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Old 30th December 2002, 05:32 PM   #25
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Hi Elso,

You didn't ask me but I feel free to answer. I use Break Free Teflon oil. Any good "thin" synthetic oil will do. Avoid grease since it makes problems worse.
A drop is too much ! Just put some on a soft cloth and rub it on the rod. Always clean the rod before lubricating with some alcohol.

Again for those that don't know: DON'T USE ALCOHOL FOR CLEANING THE LASER !!! Just to prevent you from cleaning off the coating of the lens.


My Capslock isn't stuck but I meet wiseguys every now and then that tell me to use alcohol. I know better.

Regards,

Jean-Paul
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Old 30th December 2002, 11:41 PM   #26
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Default Easy Soloution.....

Hi Elso,

I have used Dexron auto transmission fluid (red auto gearbox oil) for lubricating small mechanisms for 15 years now and it has worked fine for me.
A drop on each sintered bushing that runs on the rod is plenty.
On most Jap mechanisms, the laser assy has a pair of fingers that contact the sub-chassis on the side opposite to the sled rod.
On some sub chassis there is a thin plastic plate fitted that warps and causes binding.
The soloution is to remove the laser pickup and file away (0.5mm or so) the lower of the two fingers.
If you remove the last gear (the one that couples to the rack gear on the pickup), the laser pickup should slide freely end to end when the chassis is tilted.

Hope this helps,
Eric.
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Old 31st December 2002, 07:41 AM   #27
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Question Thanks

Hi Eric,
Thanks but I am not sure I understand about the "finger" touching the subchassis.
I have a linear motor in my Sony. It works without toothed wheels. But I learned from my time as a repairman that the subchassis of the laserunit sould not touch the main chassis.
I will try the oil you recommended.
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Old 1st January 2003, 02:29 PM   #28
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Question Still Failing on "Trackjump"

Hi Eric (Mrfeedback),
Things are going nuch better now but I still have a serious problem with a large trackjump f.a. going from track 1 to track 40. If succeeding it takes too much time but in most instances it simply fails giving the <I>no disc</I> message on the display. Could it be a rotten spindle motor? I never replaced a spindle motor in my repaircarreer but I worked mostly on brand new units.
I just sprayed the brushes with tuner 600 and for the time being it is working! I noticed that the motor is accelerating instead of breaking with the above mentioned trackjump.
Thanks a million for the advice.
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Old 1st January 2003, 10:45 PM   #29
guido is offline guido  Netherlands
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Elso,

The disc is read from inside to outside with more or less the same amount of data in one turn. So on the outside the info on the disk is not so dense.

To get the same flow of data to the decoder, the disc needs to spin faster on the outside. Going from 1 to 40, the disk will start spinning faster.

Greetings,

Guido B.
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Old 1st January 2003, 11:16 PM   #30
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Default Slightly Wrong Info.....

Hi Elso,

"Thanks but I am not sure I understand about the "finger" touching the subchassis.
I have a linear motor in my Sony."

Ok, the advice I gave was for mechs with one rail, and rack gear drive.
In your case, with two rails and linear motor, same deal applies.
Clean (isopropyl) the rails, and relube with ATF, and check that the sled will travel end to end smoothly by tilting the mech.
Take a look at solder joints in tracking/focus servo driver stages, and resolder as required.
Ditto power supplies and regulator stages.
The symptom you give indicates loss of tracking, and then disc spin up (overspeed).
Mark all trimpots carefully with a pen, and try increasing tracking gain and laser power a little.
Take a look at the HF waveform with a CRO, and fine tune the servo gains and offsets for cleanest HF waveform.

Is the spin motor standard DC brush motor, or electronic DD motor ?.

Eric.
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