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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Dear Dac builders,
I had completed the Doede TDA 1543 DAC a while ago. http://www.dddac.de/ma_dac21.htm However, It does not what it is supposed to do. It is quiet when no digital SPDIFF signal comes in, but as soon as I feed it with some digital data, it starts making a high frequency noise, in which you can faintly hear some parts of the music in the background. The louder the digital signal, the louder the fuzzy noise... I have tried everything I could in the past week. I also asked Doede some questions, but he prefers not to go into detail - which is his good right, of course. He never promised anybody to give support on his design.... Now, I am very much hoping that someone else can give advice. All measurements with my multimeter seem to be ok. I get 5.04 Volts on VBD and VBA1. With VBAdjust on 1.25 kOhm I get 7.5 Volt at VBA2. Here is the scheme: http://www.dddac.de/pics/dddac1543/pcb1543.gif I have two questions: 1. In some older schemes, Doede mentions 10 nF caps at the SPDIFF In and Ground. On later schemes he uses 100 nF caps (so that is what I used). Could it be that the use of 100 nf instead of 10 nF is responsible for the fuzz? 2. I did solder all the chips straight in the pcb (except for the Tent clock). I used a 20 Watt soldering iron, and I worked quickly... Is the CS8412 extremely sensitive to heat? Any suggestions extremely appreciated!!!! Regards, Lucas |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Place in the Netherlands
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The CS8412 is not very sensitive to heat, the surface mount version CS8414 survived my punishment with a 25W solderingiron.
The change from 10nF to 100nF isn't your problem I think. But how many TDA1543 you're using? -I would suggest to try things first without the extra clock. So connecting the CS8412 directly to your DAC's. -Also what is your spdiff connection, optical or electrical? -is the output of pin 26 of the CS8412 steady? (data line) |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I observed similar behaviour yesterday in my DAC, when the ground connection from external clock to the DAC board was missing. After connecting ground it was fine.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Holland, The Hague
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But I haven't even started yet?
__________________
Is that all there is? |
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#5 | |
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Electrons are yellow
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I would not very heat sensitive
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me BPA300 Group Buy Round 4, SMD-kit and DRV134 pcb, checking interest Sign up HERE Rectifier bridge RFB03 Group Buy Round 2, checking interest Sign up HERE |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Quote:
Hi Taco, I am using 8 dacs in a tower. I could adjust the voltage to 8.5 V and the output CD to 3.5, just like Doede recommends... I tried both ways. I have a switch with which I can toggle all three switches at once: either all three closed or open. I use an electrical SPDIFF. The inner pole connected to the SPDIFF in pin. The outer pole connected to the D-gound, next to the 12 Volt plus in for the Digital domain. I also fitted a 75 Ohm resistor between these two poles. How can I know whether the ouput of pin 26 of the CD8412 is steady? Can I meusure it? Thanks! Lucas. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Place in the Netherlands
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If you measure a stable voltage without great fluctuations then it's oke.
But like Peter said it could also be a ground problem. Have you measured if all the components that should be connected to ground have a low resistance? Are the digital and analog ground connected together? And have you bypassed the clock, to eliminate that possibility? |
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#8 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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Your DAC-chips are overheating, use a fan and / or reduce voltage to 7+...
Arne K
__________________
In vino veritas, in aqua sanitas |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Deep inside the Silicon Furnace
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I think it's overheating, too. Also, check the way you built the DAC tower. Did you stick copper foil to the top of each dac and ground them all together?
I have Doede's board, too. Still have not started the work yet. Am thinking a good way to build the tower. Probably I will make my own PCB. Piggyback two 1543 together as a set then mount them on both sides of the PCB. Two sets on top, two sets on the bottom. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Quote:
Actually it does cool quite well. I stick two larger heatsinks on the sidebars for extra cooling. Then the temp stays well below 40 degrees Celsius. If it were a matter of heat, it should perform well during the first minutes, shouldn't it? I am now also contemplating to make my own pcb (a kind of veroboard) with p2p wiring. Your idea of 4 times 2 tda's appeals to me... Also, I would never again solder the chips straight on the PCB; When there are problems (such as I have now) one keeps asking himself whether the chips themseves are still ok... Regards, Lucas. |
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