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#1 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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Just picked up a CD582 at the local seconhand-shop....
CDM4.19 + TDA1541A... So I will give it a go, to see what you guys rave about But a schematics would help speeding up things.... Arne K
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: http://www.last.fm/user/frenzicatlast
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Hi Cobra2
I do not have a schematic for the 582 but I was hoping you could post a pic of it. I have used a cd502 for ages and have not seen anything in the same range yet. the 502 has got cdm4/19, tda1543 and the japanese receiver chip. regards, frenzic |
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#3 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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But I found this interesting:
Get rid of that SAA7220 : http://www.net-audio.co.uk/tda1541nos.html But then you loose digital out...? Arne K
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#4 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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Pictures...:
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#5 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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Board
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#6 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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And the non-os converter/clock.
I have also updated nearly all caps, OsCons around digital circuits, and Elna elsewhere. AD825 op-amps out... Have not changed all the smd caps for the TDA1541 yet. And wanted to check the analog part... -but Philips Norway is unable to supply schematics for this model So far, it still have a long way to go...to compete with my Yamaha or Marantz... Arne K
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: nl
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Hi Arne,
the 7220 is not attached to the groundplane.I encountered the same layout-choice in a 472.Still busy fixing it.It was radiating like hell.Got a smashing headache listening with a headphone. Martijn |
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#8 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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Thanx for the info, but it has not got the 7220 anymore, it has been replaced by the above...
Arne K
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Ars longa, vita brevis |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: nl
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Missed that.....
Got my brains fried by non-os,I guess And?Does it work? Martijn |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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How did it sound *with* the 7220 ? I haven't heard the non os module you used. I normally use a Tent clock in these cdplayers and leave the 7220 where it is. I recently compared one of the cdplayers I have with a newer Sony machine that was unmodified and the Philips was *slightly* less good than the 1000 Euro Sony ( but it was 14 years older ). You have to see their quality in the light of their age of course.
I am seeing a hype around these old Philips cdplayers that I helped to create unfortunately. You have to realise that these cdplayers offer a very good price-quality ratio for DIY purposes. The idea to compare them with 3000 $ and up cdplayers would not come up in my mind but some of them can withstand the competition with expensive cdplayers. The more expensive ones of that time like CD80 are very hard to beat, even today. CD582 is a plastic budget machine that was never designed to be high end. They also are reliable. Some of the series sound a lot better than others although fitted with the same laser/mechanism and the same DAC etc. They all do need work to shine. Some are real pearls with only a few mods. BTW the mainboard you showed is a commonly used PCB in most of the standard types of that series. Marantz CD65 has the same board for instance. Please remove the opamps that's in between the MUSE output caps ( headphone amp ). Replace all caps and wire it for 240 V instead 220 V. The transformer has 240 V windings. You can also change the blue KP caps in the filter section for styroflex types. The ones that are used now are magnetic/ferro types. Remove the muting transistors, they have a bad influence on the sound quality. Be sure to shield the plastic case as they are made of plastic and these cdplayers radiate some RF. When the bottom of the case is sandwiched with a 2 or 3 mm metal sheet it will benefit from it. I once used stainless steel and that one sounded very good.
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