It is interesting and it's simple.
You don't need PCB to do that, and sound is very satisfying. Some bypas on battery is recommended and I'm using BG NX 1000/16. Those NX caps are always sounding somewhat softer than either STD version or N, but in some cases it is actually desirable. Overall, I think, N type has the best tonal balance, but it is also too expensive.
You don't need PCB to do that, and sound is very satisfying. Some bypas on battery is recommended and I'm using BG NX 1000/16. Those NX caps are always sounding somewhat softer than either STD version or N, but in some cases it is actually desirable. Overall, I think, N type has the best tonal balance, but it is also too expensive.
So all analog and DAC part has separate supply leaving CD-player's supply for digital and transport/LCD purposes?
Did you compare your CD 94 as a transport with CD PRO?
But you probably have to exchange coupling transformers at digital out in CD 94 to do the comparison fair,they are usually weak.
Bartek
The supply to clock is taken from 5V raw supply and futher regulated by AN8005. The DAC supply is from 12V battery and regulated by AN8008. No other analog supply needed, as I/V conversion is done by 2K7 Riken resisitors. Those are the only reistors I would recommend at this point. They simply sound the best. Rref is 1k5 Riken.
I didn't compare transports yet, as my cable was too short and I didn't want to move them.
But I did some comparison before, and CD-Pro was better.
I didn't compare transports yet, as my cable was too short and I didn't want to move them.
But I did some comparison before, and CD-Pro was better.
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