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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
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I picked up a Teac Esoteric P-10 CD Transport which contains the better VRDS CMK-3 drive & KSS-151A laser.
Symptoms: Open CD Tray and load CD. Press close...CD Tray moves smoothly back in. Clamp will pickup CD for a couple seconds, unclamp and then open & spit out tray with CD. During this operation the laser is in Rest Position and does not move at all during the above operations.... Note: If I push laser assembly away from rest position ...it will stay there as is ... unless I close tray and then it will move back to Rest position and then the tray will close and clamp again. The laser is not clamped with shipping/transport mechanism ...it off to side (white locking lever.) Laser is not visible even in dark during this procedure. I have not seen the Laser (faint RED) at all anytime since I picked it up yesterday. Does anyone know the sequential order in regards to spinning & laser movement? Is this correct: Does the tray clamp the disc first..... then the laser assembly moves into position.... then the Disc spins and then the servos drive the radial & focus coils? Is this correct? Or what is it? As I believe this is critical to the repair.. Note I changed out the Dual Power OPAMP (U113 - 5218L) that drives the Spindle Motor. NO Change from before.... Any help would be appreciated! Thanks,
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Dan Last edited by dtm1962; 22nd January 2013 at 04:38 PM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bradford
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I don't know how much of the Sony loader is retained. If it has a hinged laser mech/spindle assembly lifted by a drum cam, this is a typical symptom of slipping belt or weak motor. Failure to fully lift the clamp home results in a rejected disk.
Make sure the belt and its pulleys are thoroughly clean. If it still slips you probably need a new belt. Could also be a dirty microswitch failing to detect loading completion. |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Here are the exploded view & part number for reference associated with the Disc Clamp system.... Does it relate to your resolution in regards to slipping belt and switches not being "make". I see a belt/worm gear & and a pair of E-M switches Let me know what you think.
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Dan |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
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Dan |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
After adjusting the Clamp/Unclamp Switches I have got the player working 25% of the time. Better than 0% lol! The clamp system belt requires replacement but its a PITA to add a new belt! Does anyone now where you can get replacement TEAC belts? Let me know if you have a source.... Stay tuned....
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Dan |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
So I'm at 90-95% Load & Start-up Success! ![]() I will try it out for a a few days to see if this continues! Thanks to PlasticIsGood as he directed me in the right direction!
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Dan |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bradford
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I don't recognise the clamping mechanism, but I've never seen that mech before anyway. It appears the lifting is done by a gear-driven quadrant, but I can't see from the diagram how the mech itself, and not just the spindle, is raised. It looks like there must be separate motors for drawer and clamp.
If you find a belt is even slightly greasy, then a clean is likely to restore operation. Generic drive belts can be had from many suppliers. Specification is tricky, because they are measured in different ways. One way is by internal diameter, another is length (i.e. internal circumference). Because your belt is slightly stretched, you should subtract a couple of mm from your measurement. It may be worthwhile ordering a couple of sizes if postage dominates the cost. You may find that once you've replaced the belt, the microswitches need readjusting. |
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