Marantz CD6000ose KI not reading - diyAudio
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Old 14th June 2012, 09:27 AM   #1
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Default Marantz CD6000ose KI not reading

The player switches on ok and takes in a cd without a problem. More often than not it says "no disc". After a few tries it will spin and read a disc (preferably an original). It will then play for around 40 seconds until it skips about. I can see the laser juttering slightly back and forth as though it is searching. It seems worse at finding toc after a period of being switched on. I have cleaned the laser and used a light oil to lube the track, but no improvement.
Do you think it needs a new laser mech? I have read it could be the ball and grease but i am not 100% sure where to find that.
Thanks to anyone who can help!
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Old 14th June 2012, 11:08 AM   #2
Luke is offline Luke  New Zealand
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its probably the laser, try and find the manual online, there is a maintenance mode that might give you some answers.
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Old 14th June 2012, 01:16 PM   #3
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I have run through the maintenance modes but no errors show up- just sledge moving/spindle spinning.
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Old 15th June 2012, 06:57 AM   #4
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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Google tells me this is a CDM12.1 or VAM1202 type mech which do suffer from hardened grease on the gears/rack.

These pickups are cheap to buy and should be readily available if needed. The spindle motor could also be faulty.

I wrote this text on another forum for a CDM12.4 in a Micromega which is mechanically similar,

To repair properly (assuming this is the issue... it almost certainly is) involves unplugging the complete loader assembly and mech and laser and removing from the player. This allows you to work on it easily.

First eject the drawer normally, then pull the mains plug out. The drawer is fully removed by bending a plastic end stop out of the way and just pushing the drawer fully out... obvious when you look down at it. When you refit the drawer just push it back firmly. There are no timing problems etc or anything to align. When moving the drawer manually, always move it slowly because the loading motor acts as a generator when turned...

There is a clip on a plastic cover over a couple of gears at the front of the mach and a loading belt. These gears, or the spindles rather, is what cause the noisy drawer. Just remove the gears, clean them and the shafts and lubricate with the grease listed. Don't lubricate the teeth. The belt can be replaced too, round or square cross section it doesn't matter although square is best. These can be ordered in one offs from CPC etc, just measure the size.

The whole loader is secured by three screws under the player.
Also look where the flexi print runs from the laser to main board... make sure you see how it fits over the mouldings of the chassis.
The flexi print is released by pushing the "locking bar" on the socket forward. Thats two clips at each end... it doen't come off just moves forward a millimeter or so. That releases the foil. There is no high static risk with this pickup as it contains circuitry on board the laser.

The pickup... first draw where the six wires go (just in case) with their polarity (colours), two lots of two to the spindle motor and tiny sled motor and two to a micro switch. Carefully and quickly unsolder all. It can be better to snip them rather than linger with heat.

Now remove the pickup assembly. There are four neoprene supports. These are best removed from the pickup by using a small screwdriver to just push them to the outside of the pickup. There is a barb on the mech but it won't damage the support... just push them out.

You should have the laser mech on its own now. Be careful not to get grease etc on the lens, easy to do while handling.

The worm gear can be turned manually to move the pickup. You need to remove blue nylon gear and fully clean it in iso etc. Its held by clips so be carefull. Use card to clean all the teeth fully and the centre hole. Worth mentioning at this point that these can suffer with burrs... if so you have a problem, hopefully they are OK. Now clean the worm gear using card etc to get all the old grease out. The loading motor pops out, its held with a metal spring clip. Also clean the spindle shaft for the gear. Also try and clean the grease from the "toothed rack" on the laser itself. With the gear out the pickup is "free" to move. Clean the one rail and look at all the friction points as the pickup move.

Now reassemble using the grease shown. Lubricate the spindle of the nylon gear and the worm gear... just a smear on all the teeth.
Add some grease to all the friction points that the pickup moves on, the rail and plastic runners etc.

That should be it, reassemble the mech and resolder all the wires. Refit the flexiprint... hopefully all should be well. The front of the drawer, the metal trim, is held by sticky tape... unbelievable... and most are misaligned or creep. You can remove it, clean it and super glue it on the drawer. Make sure to get the three screws holding the loader correct as there is a bit of room for physical alignment. Then get the front plate correct.

The grease I use is this and its always performed faultlessly. The viscosity of the grease is important, too thick and it causes problems as a CD is read. The Stage players are unusual in that they read and store all track locations when a disc is inserted giving super rapid track access.

Good luck... if you get stuck just ask.

http://cpc.farnell.com/electrolube/s...lastics+grease
"

Stripdown/Clean of CDM12.4
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Old 15th June 2012, 02:57 PM   #5
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Thanks for such a detailed reply. I will give it a go! Could you tell me which grease to use, as that link comes up as not found. Thanks.
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Old 15th June 2012, 03:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris212 View Post
Thanks for such a detailed reply. I will give it a go! Could you tell me which grease to use, as that link comes up as not found. Thanks.
Electrolube special plastics grease, product code ESPG35SL.

It's not cheap, but even if you end up swapping the mech, you can grease the new one properly.
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Old 15th June 2012, 03:56 PM   #7
AMV8 is offline AMV8  United Kingdom
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Hi
I have two of the same machines and I had the same problem on both.
On one the lazer needed replacing. I entered the part number in Google and bought one from the cheapest supplier - in Germany as it happened two years ago.
On the other machine it was simply the machanism that needed resetting to adjust the disc reader/holder to the correct height in its mechanism.
The instructions that were included earlier in this thread seem right from my memory of the job.
Take care with the connections that you have to unclip as they are all fragile and yet need a hard pull to unlock and a hard push to engage. I would also note the routing of the cables as it is important to be in the correct location as the drawer slides.
Whilst my cd was dismantled I also replaced the power supply capacitors with higher quality 105 degree ones. The capacitors on the circuit boards did need replacing as they were already high quality 105 degree capacitors.
Don
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Old 15th June 2012, 05:48 PM   #8
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasticIsGood View Post
Electrolube special plastics grease, product code ESPG35SL.

It's not cheap, but even if you end up swapping the mech, you can grease the new one properly.
That's the one
SPG35SL - ELECTROLUBE - SPECIAL PLASTICS GREASE, 35ML | CPC
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Old 16th June 2012, 08:03 AM   #9
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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I'd fix the problem before you start changing psu caps. You don't want to be troubleshooting 2 issues.

The mech is extremely common so a replacement is easy to source. Clean it 1st as suggested. I've been using silicone grease on plastic transports without issue.

With respect to cap replacement, if you start to look at this, make sure you are using decent caps. On the OSE 67 the model before this, they used elna for
Hifi caps in the analogue psu. Replacing these for any old cap would be a downgrade in sound for sure. There are many similarities between the 6000 and the 67. Search here, there's a massive thread that's been running for over 5 years on the subject of mods for these players.
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Old 16th June 2012, 04:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UV101 View Post
I'd fix the problem before you start changing psu caps. You don't want to be troubleshooting 2 issues.

The mech is extremely common so a replacement is easy to source. Clean it 1st as suggested. I've been using silicone grease on plastic transports without issue.
I've been wondering what kind of issues there may be. Polystyrene is notoriously sensitive to "just about everything"

Monty - lubricating models and styrene safe oil

I've worked on a fair number of mechs whose original problem has been compounded by misguided lubrication. Sometimes, such as on CDM1 loaders, rollers and gear wheels were brittle and crumbly. On others, sliding bearings were dragging on sticky sludge.

I use the "special plastic grease" because I haven't been able to find out exactly what's in "silicon grease", either in aerosol or tube. I haven't seen one that claims to be suitable for all plastics. "Most plastics" generally excludes polystyrene and polycarbonate.

Quote:
With respect to cap replacement, if you start to look at this, make sure you are using decent caps. On the OSE 67 the model before this, they used elna for
Hifi caps in the analogue psu. Replacing these for any old cap would be a downgrade in sound for sure.
Another perplexing issue. I have a CD75 stuffed with "hi-fi" caps. The big black Elna and clump of Cerafines crowd the vregs so tightly that they all get hot. They're all many years old.

I'm sure that replacement with good quality modern, non-audio-specific caps would bring a measurable improvement in performance. Replacement as original would be too expensive. What should I do? If I consider resale value, the answer is certainly "nothing".
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