Every now and then , normally now more than then, I get a distortion through the right speaker, I have tracked it down to the CDP.
It gets gradually worse over 10 or 20 seconds then stops getting worse just as the music becomes unlistenable and remains like that, I can make the music out , just.
On close listening with my ear right up close to the speaker it sounds like just the bass that is effected.
If I tap the top of the CDP it stops and sounds normal again. Usually within 30 seconds or so it starts again.
Last night I tapped it and it went away for the rest of the night, tonight I am tap tap tapping away most of the night and it keeps coming back.
Any ideas?
It gets gradually worse over 10 or 20 seconds then stops getting worse just as the music becomes unlistenable and remains like that, I can make the music out , just.
On close listening with my ear right up close to the speaker it sounds like just the bass that is effected.
If I tap the top of the CDP it stops and sounds normal again. Usually within 30 seconds or so it starts again.
Last night I tapped it and it went away for the rest of the night, tonight I am tap tap tapping away most of the night and it keeps coming back.
Any ideas?
Right then , through a series of tapping I traced the fault to this transistor, when I tap it it either gets a lot worse or the fault goes away, but a light tap does nothing.
So , does it sound like this transistor has gone pear shaped? Or could it be a dry joint? My vote is on the tranny. Any thoughts? Does anybody know what I should be looking for if it needs replaced?
So , does it sound like this transistor has gone pear shaped? Or could it be a dry joint? My vote is on the tranny. Any thoughts? Does anybody know what I should be looking for if it needs replaced?
This is the part.
MN13811-R datasheet pdf datenblatt - Panasonic Semiconductor - CMOS LSIs for Voltage Detection ::: ALLDATASHEET :::
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/14242/PANASONIC/MN13811-R.html MN13811-R Description - CMOS LSIs for Voltage Detection
Anybody know why this part failed? Could it be due to an underlying problem?
MN13811-R datasheet pdf datenblatt - Panasonic Semiconductor - CMOS LSIs for Voltage Detection ::: ALLDATASHEET :::
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/14242/PANASONIC/MN13811-R.html MN13811-R Description - CMOS LSIs for Voltage Detection
Anybody know why this part failed? Could it be due to an underlying problem?
Playing Erykah Badu is a risky business whichever way you look at it
You say it has failed, but is in fact failing, or maybe there is a dry solder joint on one of the legs. I suspect that these can be obtained from ebay for a quid or so. I would get one, so that if you do re-work the solder points and this does not cure it, you can just swap it out.
Rob
You say it has failed, but is in fact failing, or maybe there is a dry solder joint on one of the legs. I suspect that these can be obtained from ebay for a quid or so. I would get one, so that if you do re-work the solder points and this does not cure it, you can just swap it out.
Rob
Are you confident at trying to re-work the solder joints?
Here is a list of alternatives to the MN13811. Would be worth seeing if Farnell, RS, Mouser or Rapid have any of these.
http://beamagination.solarbotics.net/1381Replacements.php
This might be ok, would need to check it's specs though
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICROCHIP...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3cc2a8a4be
Rob.
Here is a list of alternatives to the MN13811. Would be worth seeing if Farnell, RS, Mouser or Rapid have any of these.
http://beamagination.solarbotics.net/1381Replacements.php
This might be ok, would need to check it's specs though
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICROCHIP...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3cc2a8a4be
Rob.
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The MN13811 is a "reset generator" normally used for a "global" initialisation and reset of logic circuits on power up or in the event of a major voltage dropout. The output pin (pin 1) is an "open drain" FET which should pull the output down to Vss.
I honestly think you need to look elsewhere for your problem.
To prove to yourself whether the part is good you could measure and confirm the voltage on pin 1 when playing (from its description as an "open drain" output I'm pretty sure it will pull pin one to ground but measure and see). Then attach two wires, one to pin one and the other to ground (assuming the voltage reads zero on pin 1 normally) and then with the player working just short these wires. That will force the reset pin to zero no matter what the IC does.
I think the fault will be elsewhere though.
I honestly think you need to look elsewhere for your problem.
To prove to yourself whether the part is good you could measure and confirm the voltage on pin 1 when playing (from its description as an "open drain" output I'm pretty sure it will pull pin one to ground but measure and see). Then attach two wires, one to pin one and the other to ground (assuming the voltage reads zero on pin 1 normally) and then with the player working just short these wires. That will force the reset pin to zero no matter what the IC does.
I think the fault will be elsewhere though.
Hi Mooly, thats what I was afraid of, although when I tap the part the sound returns to normal , would this happen if the part were working OK?
Is there anybody on here who does this kind of repair work? This might prove to be above my head.
The fact the fault is tap-able means it is probably a dry joint or some physical problem somewhere rather than a faulty part as such.
With that part having three legs it means it means it is pretty rigid any so "taps" are transmitted through to the PCB so giving the impression that it is that part at fault. Try tapping the board around that area.
Have you got a service manual for this ?
The fact that audio is OK on one channel all the time means 99% of the player is OK.
Just a hazy though and I would have to see a service manual. Some players like this use a pair of muting transistors on each channel and they can and do fail although I wouldn't normally associate that with being tap-able but worth looking at. They can be removed completely as a test. Without seeing a circuit or a detailed photo I can't tell you what/where they are though although they will be near the output sockets and connected so that they short the outputs to ground.
With that part having three legs it means it means it is pretty rigid any so "taps" are transmitted through to the PCB so giving the impression that it is that part at fault. Try tapping the board around that area.
Have you got a service manual for this ?
The fact that audio is OK on one channel all the time means 99% of the player is OK.
Just a hazy though and I would have to see a service manual. Some players like this use a pair of muting transistors on each channel and they can and do fail although I wouldn't normally associate that with being tap-able but worth looking at. They can be removed completely as a test. Without seeing a circuit or a detailed photo I can't tell you what/where they are though although they will be near the output sockets and connected so that they short the outputs to ground.
Try headphones and see if the problem appears on those as they bypass the mute transistors mentioned.
Service manual available free here... just register,
http://www.hifiengine.com/manuals/marantz/cd6000.shtml
Service manual available free here... just register,
http://www.hifiengine.com/manuals/marantz/cd6000.shtml
It is also here without tregistering.
http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/10004/Marantz%20CD-6000K%20Service.pdf
This part is on a small pcb , the control pcb with very few other parts on it, I have tried tapping the other parts and around the pcb and it didnt change things , only when I tap the part in question the problem goes away.
edit - sorry , that manual is for the KI version , but it might be the same pcb.
edit - it is on page 21 or 23 , part number 7601, small pcb named CONTROL PCB COMPONENT SIDE VIEW
http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/10004/Marantz%20CD-6000K%20Service.pdf
This part is on a small pcb , the control pcb with very few other parts on it, I have tried tapping the other parts and around the pcb and it didnt change things , only when I tap the part in question the problem goes away.
edit - sorry , that manual is for the KI version , but it might be the same pcb.
edit - it is on page 21 or 23 , part number 7601, small pcb named CONTROL PCB COMPONENT SIDE VIEW
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So you need to prove conclusively whether or not this part is faulty.
Look at the data sheet and identify the pins and use the method I outlined above in post 9,
MN13811-R Datasheet pdf - CMOS LSIs for Voltage Detection - Panasonic
I doubt this part is the fault because it is a main reset generator for all the system control and logic. It's not connected to the audio stages as such. If there were an issue with the part it would reset the player so it entered stop mode.
Prove it though... and try headphones.
Look at the data sheet and identify the pins and use the method I outlined above in post 9,
MN13811-R Datasheet pdf - CMOS LSIs for Voltage Detection - Panasonic
I doubt this part is the fault because it is a main reset generator for all the system control and logic. It's not connected to the audio stages as such. If there were an issue with the part it would reset the player so it entered stop mode.
Prove it though... and try headphones.
I dont have any headphones.
So , If I put my multymeter between pins one and three with the unit powered up I am looking for 0 vdc?
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I dont have any headphones.
So , If I put my multymeter between pins one and three with the unit powered up I am looking for 0 vdc?
Its been running now for 20 mins and the fault has not appeared. Could the fault be thermal?
I've had a better chance to study the data sheet and I think I have told you incorrectly on the voltage output. For the version you have it shows the output as being "high" in normal operation and "low" for the reset pulse. That means you would measure closer to 5 volts between pins 1 and 3 but again the problem I'm sure isn't in this area.
Could the fault be thermal ?
Well you say it is tap-able so that usually points to a physical issue somewhere such as a poor joint or a break in the print somewhere. I still think this problem has a simple cause. It's not unknown for a part to be thermally faulty and to then respond to "tapping".
Did the fault occur again ?
Could the fault be thermal ?
Well you say it is tap-able so that usually points to a physical issue somewhere such as a poor joint or a break in the print somewhere. I still think this problem has a simple cause. It's not unknown for a part to be thermally faulty and to then respond to "tapping".
Did the fault occur again ?
Attachments
I've got hold the CD6000OSE manual.
If the fault persists there are some simple tests and checks that can be done although the player would have to be working but in the faulty state for them to be meaningful. If you could borrow some headphones it would help just as a quick check to see if the H/phone output was unaffected. There are other ways and means though to pin it down.
(I was using Windows 8 yesterday... nightmare, you just can't jump between screens like I am used too)
If the fault persists there are some simple tests and checks that can be done although the player would have to be working but in the faulty state for them to be meaningful. If you could borrow some headphones it would help just as a quick check to see if the H/phone output was unaffected. There are other ways and means though to pin it down.
(I was using Windows 8 yesterday... nightmare, you just can't jump between screens like I am used too)
Strangest thing ,When I played Eryka Badu last night it got quite bad , one channel dropped out totally then when I got it back both channels started to distort so I then played a gomez cd and a death in vagas cd and the fault didnt show up. My first thoughts were my CD player doesnt like Eryka Badu so I am now trying Eryka Badu again and the fault seems to have gone.
The PCB slots down onto upright pins that fix into plugs on the PCB , I wonder if these were not making a good contact?
Ive just bought another CD6000OSE from E Bay as well just in case this one was pear shaped.
The PCB slots down onto upright pins that fix into plugs on the PCB , I wonder if these were not making a good contact?
Ive just bought another CD6000OSE from E Bay as well just in case this one was pear shaped.
So is this player an Ebay one too perhaps with an unknown history ?
All the problems you describe point to the stages around and after the DAC. So both channels have a problem ? When the fault shows the first thing to do is to establish that the correct power supply voltages are present on the various relevant sections. These are all easily measured.
All the problems you describe point to the stages around and after the DAC. So both channels have a problem ? When the fault shows the first thing to do is to establish that the correct power supply voltages are present on the various relevant sections. These are all easily measured.
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