Marantz CD6000OSE needs a tap.. - diyAudio
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Old 8th June 2012, 11:03 PM   #1
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Default Marantz CD6000OSE needs a tap..

Every now and then , normally now more than then, I get a distortion through the right speaker, I have tracked it down to the CDP.
It gets gradually worse over 10 or 20 seconds then stops getting worse just as the music becomes unlistenable and remains like that, I can make the music out , just.
On close listening with my ear right up close to the speaker it sounds like just the bass that is effected.
If I tap the top of the CDP it stops and sounds normal again. Usually within 30 seconds or so it starts again.
Last night I tapped it and it went away for the rest of the night, tonight I am tap tap tapping away most of the night and it keeps coming back.

Any ideas?
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Old 8th June 2012, 11:31 PM   #2
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Right then , through a series of tapping I traced the fault to this transistor, when I tap it it either gets a lot worse or the fault goes away, but a light tap does nothing.
So , does it sound like this transistor has gone pear shaped? Or could it be a dry joint? My vote is on the tranny. Any thoughts? Does anybody know what I should be looking for if it needs replaced?
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Old 8th June 2012, 11:32 PM   #3
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Sorry , forgot the pics.

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Old 9th June 2012, 12:36 AM   #4
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This is the part.

MN13811-R datasheet pdf datenblatt - Panasonic Semiconductor - CMOS LSIs for Voltage Detection ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

MN13811-R Description - CMOS LSIs for Voltage Detection

Anybody know why this part failed? Could it be due to an underlying problem?
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Old 9th June 2012, 06:12 AM   #5
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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Playing Erykah Badu is a risky business whichever way you look at it

You say it has failed, but is in fact failing, or maybe there is a dry solder joint on one of the legs. I suspect that these can be obtained from ebay for a quid or so. I would get one, so that if you do re-work the solder points and this does not cure it, you can just swap it out.

Rob
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Old 9th June 2012, 08:35 AM   #6
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Hi Rob ,
I have tried E Bay and searched for MN13811-R with no joy , nor have I been able to find one from any of the online shops , Farnell, RS etc.
Any ideas what I should be looking for? All I can find for MN13811-R are data sheets.

Rob.
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Old 9th June 2012, 01:28 PM   #7
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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Are you confident at trying to re-work the solder joints?

Here is a list of alternatives to the MN13811. Would be worth seeing if Farnell, RS, Mouser or Rapid have any of these.

http://beamagination.solarbotics.net...placements.php

This might be ok, would need to check it's specs though

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICROCHIP-...item3cc2a8a4be

Rob.

Last edited by Puffin; 9th June 2012 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 9th June 2012, 09:15 PM   #8
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I have just redone them with no joy , it would seem that the part is faulty.
Would there be any comebacks do you think using a different part?

Edit - I checked the first link you gave and when I typed in the part N/A came up as the alternative.

Last edited by robgilmo; 9th June 2012 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 10th June 2012, 06:40 AM   #9
Mooly is online now Mooly  United Kingdom
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The MN13811 is a "reset generator" normally used for a "global" initialisation and reset of logic circuits on power up or in the event of a major voltage dropout. The output pin (pin 1) is an "open drain" FET which should pull the output down to Vss.

I honestly think you need to look elsewhere for your problem.

To prove to yourself whether the part is good you could measure and confirm the voltage on pin 1 when playing (from its description as an "open drain" output I'm pretty sure it will pull pin one to ground but measure and see). Then attach two wires, one to pin one and the other to ground (assuming the voltage reads zero on pin 1 normally) and then with the player working just short these wires. That will force the reset pin to zero no matter what the IC does.

I think the fault will be elsewhere though.
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Old 10th June 2012, 10:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooly View Post
The MN13811 is a "reset generator" normally used for a "global" initialisation and reset of logic circuits on power up or in the event of a major voltage dropout. The output pin (pin 1) is an "open drain" FET which should pull the output down to Vss.

I honestly think you need to look elsewhere for your problem.

To prove to yourself whether the part is good you could measure and confirm the voltage on pin 1 when playing (from its description as an "open drain" output I'm pretty sure it will pull pin one to ground but measure and see). Then attach two wires, one to pin one and the other to ground (assuming the voltage reads zero on pin 1 normally) and then with the player working just short these wires. That will force the reset pin to zero no matter what the IC does.

I think the fault will be elsewhere though.
Hi Mooly, thats what I was afraid of, although when I tap the part the sound returns to normal , would this happen if the part were working OK?

Is there anybody on here who does this kind of repair work? This might prove to be above my head.
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