Marantz CD6000OSE needs a tap.. - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 10th June 2012, 12:07 PM   #11
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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The fact the fault is tap-able means it is probably a dry joint or some physical problem somewhere rather than a faulty part as such.

With that part having three legs it means it means it is pretty rigid any so "taps" are transmitted through to the PCB so giving the impression that it is that part at fault. Try tapping the board around that area.

Have you got a service manual for this ?

The fact that audio is OK on one channel all the time means 99% of the player is OK.

Just a hazy though and I would have to see a service manual. Some players like this use a pair of muting transistors on each channel and they can and do fail although I wouldn't normally associate that with being tap-able but worth looking at. They can be removed completely as a test. Without seeing a circuit or a detailed photo I can't tell you what/where they are though although they will be near the output sockets and connected so that they short the outputs to ground.
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Old 10th June 2012, 12:12 PM   #12
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Try headphones and see if the problem appears on those as they bypass the mute transistors mentioned.

Service manual available free here... just register,
http://www.hifiengine.com/manuals/marantz/cd6000.shtml
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Old 10th June 2012, 12:29 PM   #13
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It is also here without tregistering.

http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/...%20Service.pdf

This part is on a small pcb , the control pcb with very few other parts on it, I have tried tapping the other parts and around the pcb and it didnt change things , only when I tap the part in question the problem goes away.

edit - sorry , that manual is for the KI version , but it might be the same pcb.

edit - it is on page 21 or 23 , part number 7601, small pcb named CONTROL PCB COMPONENT SIDE VIEW

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Old 10th June 2012, 12:43 PM   #14
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So you need to prove conclusively whether or not this part is faulty.

Look at the data sheet and identify the pins and use the method I outlined above in post 9,
MN13811-R Datasheet pdf - CMOS LSIs for Voltage Detection - Panasonic

I doubt this part is the fault because it is a main reset generator for all the system control and logic. It's not connected to the audio stages as such. If there were an issue with the part it would reset the player so it entered stop mode.

Prove it though... and try headphones.
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Old 10th June 2012, 09:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooly View Post
So you need to prove conclusively whether or not this part is faulty.

Look at the data sheet and identify the pins and use the method I outlined above in post 9,
MN13811-R Datasheet pdf - CMOS LSIs for Voltage Detection - Panasonic

I doubt this part is the fault because it is a main reset generator for all the system control and logic. It's not connected to the audio stages as such. If there were an issue with the part it would reset the player so it entered stop mode.

Prove it though... and try headphones.

I dont have any headphones.
So , If I put my multymeter between pins one and three with the unit powered up I am looking for 0 vdc?

Last edited by robgilmo; 10th June 2012 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 10th June 2012, 10:24 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by robgilmo View Post
I dont have any headphones.
So , If I put my multymeter between pins one and three with the unit powered up I am looking for 0 vdc?
Its been running now for 20 mins and the fault has not appeared. Could the fault be thermal?
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Old 11th June 2012, 07:26 AM   #17
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I've had a better chance to study the data sheet and I think I have told you incorrectly on the voltage output. For the version you have it shows the output as being "high" in normal operation and "low" for the reset pulse. That means you would measure closer to 5 volts between pins 1 and 3 but again the problem I'm sure isn't in this area.

Could the fault be thermal ?
Well you say it is tap-able so that usually points to a physical issue somewhere such as a poor joint or a break in the print somewhere. I still think this problem has a simple cause. It's not unknown for a part to be thermally faulty and to then respond to "tapping".

Did the fault occur again ?
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Old 11th June 2012, 08:01 AM   #18
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I've got hold the CD6000OSE manual.

If the fault persists there are some simple tests and checks that can be done although the player would have to be working but in the faulty state for them to be meaningful. If you could borrow some headphones it would help just as a quick check to see if the H/phone output was unaffected. There are other ways and means though to pin it down.

(I was using Windows 8 yesterday... nightmare, you just can't jump between screens like I am used too)
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Old 11th June 2012, 07:24 PM   #19
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Strangest thing ,When I played Eryka Badu last night it got quite bad , one channel dropped out totally then when I got it back both channels started to distort so I then played a gomez cd and a death in vagas cd and the fault didnt show up. My first thoughts were my CD player doesnt like Eryka Badu so I am now trying Eryka Badu again and the fault seems to have gone.

The PCB slots down onto upright pins that fix into plugs on the PCB , I wonder if these were not making a good contact?

Ive just bought another CD6000OSE from E Bay as well just in case this one was pear shaped.
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Old 11th June 2012, 07:45 PM   #20
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So is this player an Ebay one too perhaps with an unknown history ?

All the problems you describe point to the stages around and after the DAC. So both channels have a problem ? When the fault shows the first thing to do is to establish that the correct power supply voltages are present on the various relevant sections. These are all easily measured.
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