WEILIANG DAC5 - WM8741 & Tenor TE7022 - Page 16 - diyAudio
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Old 24th November 2012, 02:26 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 50AE View Post
How does it compare sonically to the tenor 7022? Too bad, I already ordered the Tenor few weeks ago.
cm6631 is better than te7022
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Old 25th November 2012, 01:29 AM   #152
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can anyone confirm that all the standard spdif sample rates work with this wm8804/5 style board?

its my understanding that this spdif rx chip will not 'sort out' 176/192k properly in hardware mode. software, yes, with some magic, but not hw mode.

so, can anyone confirm that this does really work at 44/48/88/96/176/192 rates?
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Old 25th November 2012, 01:48 AM   #153
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192K works fine in hardware mode, but 176K is not supported except in software mode - there is some juggling of divider coefficients, etc. in the PLL which are not manageable for some reason in hardware mode. I use WM8804 at 44K, 48K, 88K, 96K, and 192K with PCM1794A..
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Old 25th November 2012, 01:59 AM   #154
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interesting. have you tried 192k as you switch to it from all the various other rates? I'm curious if it 'landed' on 192k in all cases or if it ever gets confused.

my testing of the 8804 series says that in hw mode, it just can't be counted on for 176 or 192. they spec sheet says it needs to 'know' and this is only in sw mode.

btw, kevin, are you talking about this board or just the wolfson spdif rx chip?
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Old 5th December 2012, 06:52 PM   #155
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I finished soldering my dac 5 v1.9, and of course it doesn't work...
the voltage swings wildly on LM7808 both input and output. don't know where to start debugging it, could it be the smd voltage regulators soldered incorrectly?
does anybody has a picture with the unsoldered pcb, the region with smd regulators?
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Old 5th December 2012, 06:57 PM   #156
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I got my set of kits (2 kits and 1 assembled) yesterday for the similar DAC7.

I noticed that quite a few of the voltage regulators were used, removed from old equip and 'recycled'. usually, I do not have confidence in parts from china ebay kits and I prefer to replace most of the key parts (filter caps being the first thing I throw away and replace).

you may have gotton a bad part. but after you assemble it, its kind of late to order all new parts from known distributors (mouser, etc).

if you are seeing input to the 7808 vary, it could be possible the 7808 and things following it are loading you down so much that the input can't supply enough current. ie, a fault downstream?
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Old 5th December 2012, 07:20 PM   #157
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This is what I have - hope it helps. It's V1.3
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Old 6th December 2012, 12:39 AM   #158
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here's an assembled version of the DAC7 and the recommended r-core trafo.

my friend bought the assembled one and I bought a pair of the kits, still yet to be built. I have a feeling that I'll need the working model to help me fully be sure about every kit part

the assembled version is up and running and it appears to make sound. again, a working model is always handy if my kit version goes south on first build.

my plan is to try controlling the 2 wolfson dac chips via software, so I have to 'edit' the board a bit to convert it from hardware mode to software mode. TBD.
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Old 6th December 2012, 07:52 PM   #159
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found the problem (or at least one of the), pin 11 and 12 on 8805 were soldered together, missed that when I inspected the board after soldering.
but during testing, I managed to short circuit the board and 12V went through the smd regulators. one of them blew up (always use protective goggles), God knows if that's the only damage.
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Old 15th December 2012, 05:22 PM   #160
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pics of 2 of the dac7 kits (one assembled and one built by me).

I have my crossover modified (dcx-2496) to send out 2 spdif signals and those are what comes into this set of dacs via the usual yellow 75ohm cables.

yes, the mounting is temporary the cardboard box base came from a laptop accessory pack, lol. it was sturdy enough to hold these parts together so that I can take my time to find a more proper box for them.

the sound is pretty good. they run VERY HOT, though (the analog rails, mostly). the shunt regulator system throws off a lot of heat and I wish those heatsinks were bigger, at least. or that another regulation scheme was chosen.

on my board, I used different electrolytics and my single 1000 was larger than their series of 3 of the supplied blue ones. so I used all my own parts where I thought things might benefit or save weight. 2 regulators were not needed as I don't need or want the usb board and I don't need the toslink input.

the white color actually helps you (the builder) locate shorts or soldering faults. I like the white color for this reason, its useful, not just different
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