Hi,
I'm new here, please be gentle with me
I have a Sony Playstation 1 - SCPH 1002 that has the AKM-AK4309AVM Chip/ DAC. I use the Playstation with my system to play my music collection.
Now, the Playstation is not reading discs. The disc is only spinning clockwise and anticlockwise. And I'm also hearing a click noise when the disc is spinning.
Before this happened, I did open the Playstation to look inside for some fun. And when I put it back together, the problem started.
I don't know what the hell I have done? I don't have the skills, patience and knowledge like the members on this site.
I'm aware there are members on here that use the Playstation as their main,second and backup CD player.
I don't want to lose this wonderful machine! Can someone on here repair this fault for me? I have no problem paying for the costs.
My Playstation is totally original. I don't want to have any mods done to it.
I'm in Southall, West London.
Thanks.
Shane.
I'm new here, please be gentle with me
I have a Sony Playstation 1 - SCPH 1002 that has the AKM-AK4309AVM Chip/ DAC. I use the Playstation with my system to play my music collection.
Now, the Playstation is not reading discs. The disc is only spinning clockwise and anticlockwise. And I'm also hearing a click noise when the disc is spinning.
Before this happened, I did open the Playstation to look inside for some fun. And when I put it back together, the problem started.
I don't know what the hell I have done? I don't have the skills, patience and knowledge like the members on this site.
I'm aware there are members on here that use the Playstation as their main,second and backup CD player.
I don't want to lose this wonderful machine! Can someone on here repair this fault for me? I have no problem paying for the costs.
My Playstation is totally original. I don't want to have any mods done to it.
I'm in Southall, West London.
Thanks.
Shane.
hi shane your machine is fine only you have to do is warm up the machine .start the machine let the lid open insert playstation disc press the door button the disc will spin very fast and lens will make noises dont worry repeat this process 7,8or12,16 times until machine warms up then it will going to boot normally .the problem is there are four potentiometers .NEVER TOUCH THEM !!!.the voltage will adjust itself after machine warms up. hope you"ll enjoy...!Hi,
I'm new here, please be gentle with me
I have a Sony Playstation 1 - SCPH 1002 that has the AKM-AK4309AVM Chip/ DAC. I use the Playstation with my system to play my music collection.
Now, the Playstation is not reading discs. The disc is only spinning clockwise and anticlockwise. And I'm also hearing a click noise when the disc is spinning.
Before this happened, I did open the Playstation to look inside for some fun. And when I put it back together, the problem started.
I don't know what the hell I have done? I don't have the skills, patience and knowledge like the members on this site.
I'm aware there are members on here that use the Playstation as their main,second and backup CD player.
I don't want to lose this wonderful machine! Can someone on here repair this fault for me? I have no problem paying for the costs.
My Playstation is totally original. I don't want to have any mods done to it.
I'm in Southall, West London.
Thanks.
Shane.
.para.
Last edited:
Hi,
I'm new here, please be gentle with me
I have a Sony Playstation 1 - SCPH 1002 that has the AKM-AK4309AVM Chip/ DAC. I use the Playstation with my system to play my music collection.
Now, the Playstation is not reading discs. The disc is only spinning clockwise and anticlockwise. And I'm also hearing a click noise when the disc is spinning.
Before this happened, I did open the Playstation to look inside for some fun. And when I put it back together, the problem started.
I don't know what the hell I have done? I don't have the skills, patience and knowledge like the members on this site.
I'm aware there are members on here that use the Playstation as their main,second and backup CD player.
I don't want to lose this wonderful machine! Can someone on here repair this fault for me? I have no problem paying for the costs.
My Playstation is totally original. I don't want to have any mods done to it.
I'm in Southall, West London.
Thanks.
Shane.
Hi Shane,
I have been modifying PS1 players for several years. I have come across the behaviour that you mention but I have never had any luck with warming up the machine as a cure. The easiest way forward is to adjust the pots .. the main one being the laser voltage on the side of the laser unit. The voltage necessary depends on the condition of the laser itself. On the other hand, a complete new laser unit is only about £5 so why not just replace it. (It will still need voltage adjustment though).
I use the PS1 as my main player.. having replaced a £2500 Sony SCD-1 player with the PS1. It is still my favourite player.
George
Hi Nanook,
I think I have made all of the mods... discrete pre-amp following the removal of the on-board amplifier, direct coupling as well as indirect (via the high pass filter), external linear power supplies, blue led positioned near the laser, alignment and set up of the laser, use of larger and more stable cabinet, delayed power-on audio connection (to avoid the Sony signature tune), integrated IR control, use of small screen to display track information. I think that is all.
However, the real question should what is worth doing..... these all take time and effort. IMHO, the direct coupling without any subsequent amplification gives 80% of the benefits. The external power supplies the next 18% and the rest give the 2%.. assuming of course that the laser is properly set up.
It turns out that the key work can be completed within a half a day, allowing for testing with a variety of cds, and checking for vibration sensitivity. If you want to go the whole hog then you are probably looking at a week's work, given the testing time, integration effort, cabinet production and so on. Also, apart from looking nice, the blue led is (IMHO) just a cosmetic fad.
I hope this helps
George
I think I have made all of the mods... discrete pre-amp following the removal of the on-board amplifier, direct coupling as well as indirect (via the high pass filter), external linear power supplies, blue led positioned near the laser, alignment and set up of the laser, use of larger and more stable cabinet, delayed power-on audio connection (to avoid the Sony signature tune), integrated IR control, use of small screen to display track information. I think that is all.
However, the real question should what is worth doing..... these all take time and effort. IMHO, the direct coupling without any subsequent amplification gives 80% of the benefits. The external power supplies the next 18% and the rest give the 2%.. assuming of course that the laser is properly set up.
It turns out that the key work can be completed within a half a day, allowing for testing with a variety of cds, and checking for vibration sensitivity. If you want to go the whole hog then you are probably looking at a week's work, given the testing time, integration effort, cabinet production and so on. Also, apart from looking nice, the blue led is (IMHO) just a cosmetic fad.
I hope this helps
George
"blue LED fad"
I disagree with this comment. The idea was/is to introduce some light "distortion" so that error correction can occur more easily. I did this after I removed the output muting caps on the first one I played around with and it worked! I also was playing the thing naked... (the Greystation, not me)
For power supply I am assuming a 12V and 5V DC? I think I have a linear dual voltage power supply (decent quality wall wart, 12VDC 3A, 5VDC 2A or similar) someplace. I guess I could always find an old high output non-switching PC supply (350 Watts +) as a start.
I may re-purpose an old cabinet or do as the fellow from PHY did and make a Baltic birch plywood one. If I must,I could build (or get one built) from brushed aluminium. The WAF needs to be high, that's the only reason that I am not using one in my system now. If it doesn't look good it doesn't make it into my system (which resides in our small living room)
The delay start is interesting. What screen did you use? The remote seems easy enough to do.
One thing that does annoy me is the apparent cheapness of the drive used. I wonder if a Sony (or Teac) CDRW would provide a better transport mechanism?
I disagree with this comment. The idea was/is to introduce some light "distortion" so that error correction can occur more easily. I did this after I removed the output muting caps on the first one I played around with and it worked! I also was playing the thing naked... (the Greystation, not me)
For power supply I am assuming a 12V and 5V DC? I think I have a linear dual voltage power supply (decent quality wall wart, 12VDC 3A, 5VDC 2A or similar) someplace. I guess I could always find an old high output non-switching PC supply (350 Watts +) as a start.
I may re-purpose an old cabinet or do as the fellow from PHY did and make a Baltic birch plywood one. If I must,I could build (or get one built) from brushed aluminium. The WAF needs to be high, that's the only reason that I am not using one in my system now. If it doesn't look good it doesn't make it into my system (which resides in our small living room)
The delay start is interesting. What screen did you use? The remote seems easy enough to do.
One thing that does annoy me is the apparent cheapness of the drive used. I wonder if a Sony (or Teac) CDRW would provide a better transport mechanism?
Sorry... it is a fad.... unless there are some measurements to back it up? It does look pretty though
For power supply I used the dogbreath design.. this has two stages of regulation, inside and outside of the PS1 chassis. It has the advantage of keeping the PS1 quite cool. Even so, I did mount a very small 12 DC fan near the laser. It turned out to be unnecessary and the noise / complexity was not worth the effort.
The delay start was a simple board add-in using a relay and timer circuit. It needed (I believe) a 9 VDC supply, which was added to the chassis.
The screen used was a 4.3" LCD as used for reversing in cars. It needs a 12 VDC supply, which was also added to the chassis. The on/ off switch on the chassis actually powers on / off the external power supply which then feeds the appropriate DC to the various components.
Rather than be annoyed at the cheapness of the drive, you should be amazed at its capability. When properly mounted this $5 unit withstands the rigours of children playing with it and still delivers high quality sound. The biggest problem with it, IMHO, is the limited clearance of the CD from the base, which can often cause scraping noises. Also the spindle support can slip / move and is easily broken. These parts are not so good. However replacement parts are easily and cheaply available
George
For power supply I used the dogbreath design.. this has two stages of regulation, inside and outside of the PS1 chassis. It has the advantage of keeping the PS1 quite cool. Even so, I did mount a very small 12 DC fan near the laser. It turned out to be unnecessary and the noise / complexity was not worth the effort.
The delay start was a simple board add-in using a relay and timer circuit. It needed (I believe) a 9 VDC supply, which was added to the chassis.
The screen used was a 4.3" LCD as used for reversing in cars. It needs a 12 VDC supply, which was also added to the chassis. The on/ off switch on the chassis actually powers on / off the external power supply which then feeds the appropriate DC to the various components.
Rather than be annoyed at the cheapness of the drive, you should be amazed at its capability. When properly mounted this $5 unit withstands the rigours of children playing with it and still delivers high quality sound. The biggest problem with it, IMHO, is the limited clearance of the CD from the base, which can often cause scraping noises. Also the spindle support can slip / move and is easily broken. These parts are not so good. However replacement parts are easily and cheaply available
George
annoyed...
...I guess if it sounds this good I have nothing to be to concerned about. I've used this in stock form off and all for the last 5 years. I would have hoped that Sony had a higher end version of this complete transport mechanism. That's all.I have one SCHP1001 that's been in pieces for a while. I might hack the board up to salvage the DAC and see if it can be implemented as a stand-alone DAC. It would be nice to create a completely discrete output stage (whether chip, transistor or tube based). I have at least a half dozen or so of these players kicking around.
georgebrooke: do you have any photos of the completed implementation ? Is there a hack so that you can actually see tracks being played etc, or is it just the typical Sony screen?
As I stated earlier, the only reason that I don't have one in the living room is that it is so terrible looking (and the missus says if it's ugly it can't be out there...)
...I guess if it sounds this good I have nothing to be to concerned about. I've used this in stock form off and all for the last 5 years. I would have hoped that Sony had a higher end version of this complete transport mechanism. That's all.I have one SCHP1001 that's been in pieces for a while. I might hack the board up to salvage the DAC and see if it can be implemented as a stand-alone DAC. It would be nice to create a completely discrete output stage (whether chip, transistor or tube based). I have at least a half dozen or so of these players kicking around.
georgebrooke: do you have any photos of the completed implementation ? Is there a hack so that you can actually see tracks being played etc, or is it just the typical Sony screen?
As I stated earlier, the only reason that I don't have one in the living room is that it is so terrible looking (and the missus says if it's ugly it can't be out there...)
Discrete output for Playstation
I have heard a PS1 with Burson discrete opamps and it sounded great. Parts connexion carries them. Works of art they are!
I was looking to put a power supply in my PS1 and was looking at Dogbreath for ideas. I wondered if one needs to mod his design for different power inputs..ie for Canada as I believe he's in Europe somewhere? Also....does one need two toroidal transformers or is there an advantage to having two?
Any insights would be appreciated.
I have heard a PS1 with Burson discrete opamps and it sounded great. Parts connexion carries them. Works of art they are!
I was looking to put a power supply in my PS1 and was looking at Dogbreath for ideas. I wondered if one needs to mod his design for different power inputs..ie for Canada as I believe he's in Europe somewhere? Also....does one need two toroidal transformers or is there an advantage to having two?
Any insights would be appreciated.