Hi everyone !
After building a pair of wonderful "TB-Needle" and assembling a little "Fenice20" amplifer, all with the same aesthetic, I am now building (better say "assembling", again 😉) a CDPlayer.
I'll use a PC CDROM mechanic, with its own +5/+12 psu and its "dedicated" (chinese) controller, a little "Fiio D3" DAC and a double 6n3P-i (russians) tube buffer, all thrown inside a alu+wood cabinet (aesthetic of course matched with amp & speakers).
My wish is to use the same CDRom used by Audio Analogue in their fabulous CDPs like the Rossini VT, the TEAC 5010A, but I could NOT find one "in the wild".
I want to say that here in Italy I found there's only ONE company that distributes it, but ONLY to "specialized companies"...
Then, no "private person" could get one from them (I already tried the "business friends" way, but it's really too complicated... 🙁) , so I wonder if there's a way to buy this CDRom from other sources...
Does anyone knows anything about it ?
After building a pair of wonderful "TB-Needle" and assembling a little "Fenice20" amplifer, all with the same aesthetic, I am now building (better say "assembling", again 😉) a CDPlayer.
I'll use a PC CDROM mechanic, with its own +5/+12 psu and its "dedicated" (chinese) controller, a little "Fiio D3" DAC and a double 6n3P-i (russians) tube buffer, all thrown inside a alu+wood cabinet (aesthetic of course matched with amp & speakers).
My wish is to use the same CDRom used by Audio Analogue in their fabulous CDPs like the Rossini VT, the TEAC 5010A, but I could NOT find one "in the wild".
I want to say that here in Italy I found there's only ONE company that distributes it, but ONLY to "specialized companies"...
Then, no "private person" could get one from them (I already tried the "business friends" way, but it's really too complicated... 🙁) , so I wonder if there's a way to buy this CDRom from other sources...
Does anyone knows anything about it ?
Maybe you can look also at CD-5020A or B? It's UART thou...
Try asking TEAC autorized distribuitors: TEAC AMERICA, INC. | Data Storage | Authorized Distributors
Try asking TEAC autorized distribuitors: TEAC AMERICA, INC. | Data Storage | Authorized Distributors
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is there a difference between an regulair DVD-rom and this 5010A
becuase i have build also an diy cd-player and use the digital output connected
to an DAC. it works perfect. the only problem is that the digital output must be convert to COAX and that's not easy to do without any digital problems..
becuase i have build also an diy cd-player and use the digital output connected
to an DAC. it works perfect. the only problem is that the digital output must be convert to COAX and that's not easy to do without any digital problems..
Pretty nice players... sure I'll contact all those US sellers (although I would pay the "regular" import taxes if I'll catch one 🙁!)
TTL-to-coaxial interface. Use a cable as short as you can...
Does you mean the output for an dac, because I have try this and still hear some digital
sound even when the volume is zero.
I use now serial 100 nf to puls transformer 75 ohm to ground not ok ....
It seems it you must isolate the spdif ground ?
sound even when the volume is zero.
I use now serial 100 nf to puls transformer 75 ohm to ground not ok ....
It seems it you must isolate the spdif ground ?
Yep, it's the coaxial spdif for an external DAC.
If you hear some "digital noise" maybe it would be better to connect the CDROM chassis to the ground of your cdplayer case (remember all cdroms are basically made to be screwed to a computer case...)
After that, sorry, Jempie... I still do not have all the parts to complete my DIY CDp (I'm still waiting for the 220_+12V/+5V PSU) and test it all 🙂.
Only got some "webfriends" that did it and seems it works VERY well.
Inside the black heat shrink tubing there is that simple Cap+Res+Res circuit.
If you hear some "digital noise" maybe it would be better to connect the CDROM chassis to the ground of your cdplayer case (remember all cdroms are basically made to be screwed to a computer case...)
After that, sorry, Jempie... I still do not have all the parts to complete my DIY CDp (I'm still waiting for the 220_+12V/+5V PSU) and test it all 🙂.
Only got some "webfriends" that did it and seems it works VERY well.
Inside the black heat shrink tubing there is that simple Cap+Res+Res circuit.
You will pay those no matter what. Unless Teac has a factory in EU 🙂
I don't know what reps are in EU, maybe try in UK?
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have try both ways connected to ground and not connected
still hear some digital sound.
it seems that isolate and not isolate will help, does anyne knows?
still hear some digital sound.
it seems that isolate and not isolate will help, does anyne knows?
Could someone explain digital noise/, what frequency is it, as most (all) digital noise generaly found on digital circuits is way above 20kHz
Maybe the problem is NOT that little interface circuit ?
There could be several causes, so you can go "to trial"...
A> try to connect your CDROM to another DAC and see (hear) if the matter is solved
B> try to connect another CDROM
C> try to connect a CDplayer to your DAC
I am not so "smart" about digital noise(s), but with this words we can "summarize" MANY kind of "noises", typical of a digital disc player... like the clock(s) precision, wich seems to be the matter !
Of course, only a scope could analyze it... but there also are some kind of audible "consequences" when we are in the presence of MANY digital noise, especially with a faulty DAC !
Thanks, lduarte.
My hope is I (we) could find it somewhere...
Seems that improvements on mech and error correction system makes the difference in such a player (if compared to "normal"/commercial CDROMs) but I suspect it could cost MUCH more than we'd think... :/
My hope is I (we) could find it somewhere...
Seems that improvements on mech and error correction system makes the difference in such a player (if compared to "normal"/commercial CDROMs) but I suspect it could cost MUCH more than we'd think... :/
It would be an interesting experiment to see what circuitry is affected and how downstream of a digital convertor or a digital system. The problem is then the frequency of the digital system and the base noise it also creates. I do PCB for communications and we have looked at the resulting analogue signals using a 13GHz scope, the analogue waveform was fuzzy with the digital noise, but was quite low level, but still present. This was a system with fast FPGA and DDR memory, similar to the noise you will get in a PC.
Galvonic isolation and a totaly seperate analogue section would be best but impossible to do with an DAC, so isolating the noisy low level analogue from further amplication.
It is a problem that is going to increase as just about everything has some digital devices in them, and the proliferation of wireless devices etc is creating a noisy envoironment.
Galvonic isolation and a totaly seperate analogue section would be best but impossible to do with an DAC, so isolating the noisy low level analogue from further amplication.
It is a problem that is going to increase as just about everything has some digital devices in them, and the proliferation of wireless devices etc is creating a noisy envoironment.
Mah ?!?!?? Even in the "C" situation ?!?!?? You have a "regular" CDplayer connected via "regular" 75 Ohm coaxial cable to your DIYCDP internal DAC and you still hear noises ?
Then, if you also tried the other 2 situations, it should mean that noise does NOT come from the TTL-to-coaxSPDIF interface...
In the three situations you have to switch on the DIYCDP power, right ?
Try to disconnect what you doesn't need for the situation you are trying.
So, if you don't need the display then turn it off 🙂 !
Don't want to say bu....it, so I'd better pass the ball to someone smarter than me about this argument... 🙂 !
Any news about the Teac CDROM ?
No one found "in the wild" ?
Then, if you also tried the other 2 situations, it should mean that noise does NOT come from the TTL-to-coaxSPDIF interface...
In the three situations you have to switch on the DIYCDP power, right ?
Try to disconnect what you doesn't need for the situation you are trying.
So, if you don't need the display then turn it off 🙂 !
Don't want to say bu....it, so I'd better pass the ball to someone smarter than me about this argument... 🙂 !
Any news about the Teac CDROM ?
No one found "in the wild" ?
when you messure the ground and the cover of the Teac 5010A they are not connected
when you do that with another dvd-rom they are connected
it seems that the ground of any cd player with cd rom drive the chassis is not connected to ground only the digital ground is connected to ground
when you do that with another dvd-rom they are connected
it seems that the ground of any cd player with cd rom drive the chassis is not connected to ground only the digital ground is connected to ground
Controller arrived, installed and tested: OK!
DIYCDP_Clip_01.MOV - YouTube
Work_STILL_In_Progress ...
As I said, I have several CD-RW and DVD-ROM and I have tested 6, but I used one of the three Pioneer "slot-in" because it seems (SEEMS...) mechanically quieter than the others, although I still have not "tested" other "features" ... Someone knows models of DVD players / recorders "suitable" for such use?
And, again: any news about a POSSIBLE (?!?!?) way to get those "notorious" Teac 5010A or 5020A?
DIYCDP_Clip_01.MOV - YouTube
Work_STILL_In_Progress ...
As I said, I have several CD-RW and DVD-ROM and I have tested 6, but I used one of the three Pioneer "slot-in" because it seems (SEEMS...) mechanically quieter than the others, although I still have not "tested" other "features" ... Someone knows models of DVD players / recorders "suitable" for such use?
And, again: any news about a POSSIBLE (?!?!?) way to get those "notorious" Teac 5010A or 5020A?
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