Hello to all,
I wanted to upgrade the output op amps in my Philips CD200 player, but after the mod the player doesn't work anymore
At the first testing it didn't read TOC, and one of the relays started to buzz, Then I checked if everything was connencted right, angain buzzing, after two more power ups it is not even buzzing anymore. It seems that the MAB8410 B002C went bad since it runs hot short after powering up.
Is there any way to get this IC or can I arrange the funeral of the machine?
I wanted to upgrade the output op amps in my Philips CD200 player, but after the mod the player doesn't work anymore
At the first testing it didn't read TOC, and one of the relays started to buzz, Then I checked if everything was connencted right, angain buzzing, after two more power ups it is not even buzzing anymore. It seems that the MAB8410 B002C went bad since it runs hot short after powering up.
Is there any way to get this IC or can I arrange the funeral of the machine?
I think you're jumping to conclusions a little bit fast when you blame the issues on the MAB8410. You could be right, but I'd check a few more things first. Also, keep in mind that a MAB8410 is a mask programmed microcontroller, so you'll need one with the right program.
The first thing I'd be checking is all the power supply rails for both level and ripple. Buzzing relays make me suspect that one of the rails may be extremely noisy, and the relay coils are driven by the same 5V rail as all of the player's logic ICs. You're best off looking with an oscilloscope, but checking with a multimeter on both AC and DC ranges may do the job.
If you haven't already got the CD200's service manual you can download it from here.
The first thing I'd be checking is all the power supply rails for both level and ripple. Buzzing relays make me suspect that one of the rails may be extremely noisy, and the relay coils are driven by the same 5V rail as all of the player's logic ICs. You're best off looking with an oscilloscope, but checking with a multimeter on both AC and DC ranges may do the job.
If you haven't already got the CD200's service manual you can download it from here.
I pulled out the MAB, since it is in socket, the ic itself is the short. Also when I pull out the ic, and power up the player the 15 leds are lighting, if I put back the MAB even if I disconnect the +5V of the decoder board the 15 Leds are not lighting. I measured the clock leg of the connector which goes to pin3 if the ic is not in the socket there is a certain signal, but with the ic in there is nothing.
I didn't make any other mods, except that I replaced the caps in the power supply, but it is working fine so I don't think it would be a problem.
However I have two theories:
-ESD failure; however I did careful precautions to prevent this.
-There are two connectors very close to each others with no signings and exactly the same coloured wires: one is with the data signals, like the clock which goes to MAB's pin 3, and the other is with the negative supply rails, I rechecked the connectors but I reconnect them many times too, so I could accidentally swap the two connectors, if so then -12V went to the clock input which is high enough to kill the ic I think...
However I have two theories:
-ESD failure; however I did careful precautions to prevent this.
-There are two connectors very close to each others with no signings and exactly the same coloured wires: one is with the data signals, like the clock which goes to MAB's pin 3, and the other is with the negative supply rails, I rechecked the connectors but I reconnect them many times too, so I could accidentally swap the two connectors, if so then -12V went to the clock input which is high enough to kill the ic I think...
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