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#11 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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As I understood the higher frequency the better. That means a low jitter 80 or 100 MHz XO has to be used. That frequency and it's harmonics WILL show up at the output in my implementation.
And where do I find a low jitter 80 or 100 MHz module that is suitable ? I guess the answer is building a discrete clock which takes space and will stress the design/test stage severely. The version I will redesign is in fact a redesign with another CAD program of a built and tested DAC that was plain good. It also adds to the total cost of the project and it delivers a risk of people having problems with the RF etc.
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'm using a crystal close to 100Mhz. The reclocker might add to the price, but it also can be optional on a board. Somebody who wants to use it, can install all the parts, and somebody who doesn't want it, leaves the spaces empty. With careful bord layout, it can be somwhere on a side and wouldn't interfere with a main circuit.
I'm also using separate transformer for reclocking circuit. From what I remember it was major improvement over the bare bone TDA 1543 circuit.
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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Quote:
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
It may depend on where the boards will be made. You will e-mail Elib?
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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Quote:
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It's only audio |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
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Somebody suggested to me yesterday that 2134 was better sounding than OPA627 in NAD output. Did you try this one?
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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????? What does NAD output mean ???????
That somebody has obviously other experiences than me. OPA627 is way better than OPA2134. I did test this. That doesn't mean OPA2134 is bad. When you need a double opamp it is OK, maybe OPA2604 is a better choice but that depends on taste/implementation I guess. Nowadays I would use LM6172 but only after careful examination of the cdplayer/schematic in question. Of the oldies I did like OP249 too. IMO it is a pity that single opamps are so seldom used in good cdplayers as the creme-de-la-creme is found amongst single versions. That makes way for building discrete, I know
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
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NAD 514 CD
I'm also aware that everything depends on implementation. BTW, I'm still feeding 3V (or so from DAC) directly to OPA 627. I guess I should do something about it?
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Do count me in as well.
Ralph ps perhaps allready start a wiki ?! |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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www.dhtrob.com seems down but I found this listening session:
http://home.zonnet.nl/horneman/dhtrob.htm
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