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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chesterfield, UK
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Hello! For many examples of taking audio feeds before op amps and transistor stages ( either amplification or muting) I'd recommend you look in on the Lampizator ( Lukasz Fikus Lampizator). I've worked on a few Kenwood players but always DP-xx90's. Looking at the board it's a certainty that you have both muting transistors and capacitors in the audio signal path. Might be worth lifting the lead from the board and taking your L&R direct from there? The DAC is a Philips TDA1547 - I know Lukasz did some work on this chip in one of his projects. Good luck!
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Oxford
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There's a fair bit about the DAC7 (TDA1547) as its a nice sounding chip. It should be possible to take the output from the dac via a single opamp stage and DC blocking caps straight to the output. Could do with a manual really ;-)
If you wanted to go mad, you could bypass the built in opamp I/V on the DAC and build a separate I/V ;-)
__________________
When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk Restek Fantasy, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Virginia
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Just leave everything there in place (it won't make a difference) and replace the OpAmps with something decent. You might need to add decoupling caps between OpAmp power pins and ground.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Oxford
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That's probably the best advice to be fair. Decent Opamps with their local decoupling caps will significantly help. Also check for dc blocking caps after the opamps but before the muting circuit. Swapping these for mkp type will help. If you take a picture of the pcb with the dac and opamps, we should be able to point out the candidates for upgrade ;-)
__________________
When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk Restek Fantasy, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Hello
I also has a nice highly rated Kenwood DP3300D about 20Lb but sound awful. Built very nice inside, I'll open up and take some pictures. If is possible to improve the sound that would be great. Greetings Gabor |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Which opamps should i use to replace the old ones and what capacitance for the decoupling caps? As the current opamps are sip8 type, so i will have to make two adaptor sockets for new ones. I have fortunately found a schematics for such adaptor on the internet.
![]() By the way, should i remove the mute transistors? Last edited by ngovanhinh; 21st December 2011 at 01:51 AM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Dear SoNic_real_one ,
Which opamps should i use to replace the old ones and what capacitance for decoupling caps? By the way, should i remove mute transistors? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chesterfield, UK
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I've used Burr Brown OPA627BP's - big improvement over the normal ones used in CD players, but there is plenty of choice. For the minimum effort, Sonic's input is fine. Marantz used the TDA1547 with their HDAM system in the CD-17, which turned out to be a discrete transistor stage and sounds great. This is closer to UV101's suggestion, but involves more reading & work!
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