Marantz CD-50 and CD-60, TDA1541, CDM4/19

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Thanks! I really appreciate you taking the time to help :)

While searching ebay I came across these, any good in the spots you put the Mundorfs?

Those are MKP 4.7uF film caps. They are for the signal path and not PSU. Those are ideal for coupleing the opamp output to the sockets on the back if you want to bypass the muting transistors or just to replace the small green Muse BP that are the std output coupling. I think in my large post yesterday, I mentioned 4.7uF MKP's for this purpose. :)
 
Those are MKP 4.7uF film caps. They are for the signal path and not PSU. Those are ideal for coupleing the opamp output to the sockets on the back if you want to bypass the muting transistors or just to replace the small green Muse BP that are the std output coupling. I think in my large post yesterday, I mentioned 4.7uF MKP's for this purpose. :)

Yes, that's what I was reffering to, you used Mundorf filmcaps there in one of the pics you posted on page2. :)

Sorry if I was unclear.
 
Right !

C'mon then..hurry up - get them in and let us know :D

This thread is getting good now - bravo
It's nice that UV101 is here for you - you could not have a better
coach - have you seen his work and read his stuff ?
( hide your ears UV please :eek: )

My machine is clocked how it is because of his paper on advanced re clocking.

...and you certainly won't appreciate the sound of NOS once you hear what happens when you silence the SAA7220 with it's own p - supply and prevent it from doing clock distribution - it's quite amazing.

Andrew
 
Was looking at my unmolested CD50 this evening and realised I forgot cap 2612 which is the local decoupling for the RAM that attached to the SAA7310 decoder chip. As these operate in the digital domain, I'd change my recommendation for these 2 chips to solid polymer electrolytic like Nichicon PLE or OsCon SEPC. These are extremely low ESR and excellent on digital rails but definitely not recommended on analogue rails.

Anyway, the temptation was too much, A reg on the 7220, A clock directly feeding the 7310 and 7220, 8 Rubycon 470uF/16v ZLG (Opamps, TDA and 7220), 2 Nichicon solid polymer 330uF/6.3v (7310 and RAM) a couple of LME49860 audio grade opamps later and I've got something thats a million miles from its original wooly self.

Detail has jumped right out, soundstage is fuller with much better placement. Treble jumps out, mids are smooth and bass is tighter, more accurate and deeper. Everything sounds more controlled. To be honest, you really wouldn't recognise it as the same player.

I'll replace the PSU caps tomorrow and swap out the MUSE BP for some basic film caps.

I'd actually forgotten how much difference these changes make and its not even settled in yet! ;-)
 
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Thanks for the kind words Andrew. Its nice to be appreciated but I cant take all the credit. There are many very clever people on this forum, I'm fortunate enough to have taken in what people have been prepared to share, try it for myself and share my own experiences. I have a real soft spot for anything that has a TDA1541 in it! The great thing is, you can get a 2nd hand player for very little and with a few carefully selected components, turn it into something that would put a lot of modern commercial stuff to shame which is so satisfying. All this modding has lead me to make my own clocks and regs. 1st on vero and more recently on some PCB's I had made. This makes it all the more affordable and even more enjoyable. Its also nice to give something back here too ;-)

Anyway, here's couple of pics of tonights little effort!!! Enjoy :)

IMG_6650.jpg


IMG_6649.jpg
 
Right !

C'mon then..hurry up - get them in and let us know :D

This thread is getting good now - bravo
It's nice that UV101 is here for you - you could not have a better
coach - have you seen his work and read his stuff ?
( hide your ears UV please :eek: )

My machine is clocked how it is because of his paper on advanced re clocking.

...and you certainly won't appreciate the sound of NOS once you hear what happens when you silence the SAA7220 with it's own p - supply and prevent it from doing clock distribution - it's quite amazing.

Andrew

I'll get there :)
Parts has to arrive first.

Was looking at my unmolested CD50 this evening and realised I forgot cap 2612 which is the local decoupling for the RAM that attached to the SAA7310 decoder chip. As these operate in the digital domain, I'd change my recommendation for these 2 chips to solid polymer electrolytic like Nichicon PLE or OsCon SEPC. These are extremely low ESR and excellent on digital rails but definitely not recommended on analogue rails.

Anyway, the temptation was too much, A reg on the 7220, A clock directly feeding the 7310 and 7220, 8 Rubycon 470uF/16v ZLG (Opamps, TDA and 7220), 2 Nichicon solid polymer 330uF/6.3v (7310 and RAM) a couple of LME49860 audio grade opamps later and I've got something thats a million miles from its original wooly self.

Detail has jumped right out, soundstage is fuller with much better placement. Treble jumps out, mids are smooth and bass is tighter, more accurate and deeper. Everything sounds more controlled. To be honest, you really wouldn't recognise it as the same player.

I'll replace the PSU caps tomorrow and swap out the MUSE BP for some basic film caps.

I'd actually forgotten how much difference these changes make and its not even settled in yet! ;-)

Great :)
I'm getting my parts together, TSUP's will be here on monday, just ordered 8 Rubycon ZL 470uF/25V, 2pcs LM317 w heatsinks and 2pcs 4,7uF/400V MKP's (the ones I linked to).
 
Only 1 of those regs is mine, the one on the 7220 is an audiocom reg which is struggling with the current delivery, but was all I had to hand last night.

Alas, no plans for selling regs at the moment for a couple of reasons but the main one being as a professional courtesy to a couple of sellers who regularly contribute on the forum and who have helped me out lots in the past few years. Its the same reason I only occasionally sell something I've modded and dont just ship em in and ship em out (like a few have done after lightly touching on some other very good threads here on the forum). What I will say is that its worth investing in a couple of premium regs as and when the purse allows for sure.

Google opamp voltage regulator, should give you a few ideas to try on vero. Thats where I started.

Another interesting fact is that any of the mainstream commercial clocks are pretty much a very good low noise reg feeding a high quality oscillator. The only problem is finding decent oscillators at the right freq for a CD player ;-)
 
There are a couple of threads in the forum with very good implimentations of 317 regs. Also in the data sheet, there should be a diagram for a TPR (tracking Pre Regulator) these can also be very good but my question would be, Why do you need a voltage regulator to build a discrete voltage regulator. ;) Look at the some of the more exotic designs, Jung, Sulzer etc. They use a transistor or Fet as the output device. The D44H11 is often used. Depends on how far you are prepared to go....no pain, no gain!!

Check out Rays (6h5c on this forum) rayregs. Simple 317/337 regs made on veroboard to fit the std TO-220 footprint. There is some useful info on his site relating to clocks and other tinkering too. Nice guy, I've built a couple of his DOS boards for the later Marantz players.
 
There are a couple of threads in the forum with very good implimentations of 317 regs. Also in the data sheet, there should be a diagram for a TPR (tracking Pre Regulator) these can also be very good but my question would be, Why do you need a voltage regulator to build a discrete voltage regulator. ;) Look at the some of the more exotic designs, Jung, Sulzer etc. They use a transistor or Fet as the output device. The D44H11 is often used. Depends on how far you are prepared to go....no pain, no gain!!

Check out Rays (6h5c on this forum) rayregs. Simple 317/337 regs made on veroboard to fit the std TO-220 footprint. There is some useful info on his site relating to clocks and other tinkering too. Nice guy, I've built a couple of his DOS boards for the later Marantz players.

Thanks!!
I'll read up on regs during the weekend :)

Got the Decouplingcaps for TDA1541A today, wima MKS2 0,22uF/63V.
Should I parallell these with the SMD's already there or remove the SMD's first?

Also got some grease for the plastic gears and for the clampbearing(ok to use there?).
 
Those smt caps are 100nF 63v 10% according to the SM. I'd say they are probably ceramic. Personally, I'd try without them (Thats how I have my CD960).

You should also look at the DEM cap. In my clocking doc, there is a section written by EC Designs on the theory of cap values resulting in a "lock" of the DEM circuit.

With respect to the grease, I seem to remember the fact that the cogs fatigue being blamed on the use of the wrong type of grease being used during manufacturing. Based on that, make sure you remove all the old grease (its possibly gone hard by now anyway). I have another theory on the reason they all fail! 1 they are old and some plastics go brittle when old. Secondly, you push the drawer to start it closing. This by default will put a high load on the cog. It's designed to move slowley driven my a high speed motor and not to be pushed slowley in order to drive a high speed motor!!!

My advice is to use the play button to get the drawer to close (may also work with stop, i'll try later when I get in) This way, its the motor doing the work, not the teeth on the cog!
 
Those smt caps are 100nF 63v 10% according to the SM. I'd say they are probably ceramic. Personally, I'd try without them (Thats how I have my CD960).

You should also look at the DEM cap. In my clocking doc, there is a section written by EC Designs on the theory of cap values resulting in a "lock" of the DEM circuit.

With respect to the grease, I seem to remember the fact that the cogs fatigue being blamed on the use of the wrong type of grease being used during manufacturing. Based on that, make sure you remove all the old grease (its possibly gone hard by now anyway). I have another theory on the reason they all fail! 1 they are old and some plastics go brittle when old. Secondly, you push the drawer to start it closing. This by default will put a high load on the cog. It's designed to move slowley driven my a high speed motor and not to be pushed slowley in order to drive a high speed motor!!!

My advice is to use the play button to get the drawer to close (may also work with stop, i'll try later when I get in) This way, its the motor doing the work, not the teeth on the cog!

I've got a new wheel/belt on the way, should be here next week.
I'll replace the one in the CD-60, the grease I ordered is supposed to be specificly for this purpose.

Sorry for asking as you probably allready answered(information overload? :D ) but what would you recommend for the DEM cap?

Now to the regulars:
Should I just build one for the pos. in for the SAA7220?
Where do I connect the reg in from the unregulated side?
Where do I connect gnd in/out).

PS. I think I'll paste all of your advice in a word doc, use that as the "mod-service-manual" :)
 
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