Burning CDs

[otto88]

To burn CDs of .WAV files to play on ordinary CD players, what sort of media should I use, to have maximum compatibility? eg, CD-R(?)

Thanks

 

[otto88]

or simply to copy backup CDs ~ I'd think that the answer is the same . .

 

[SY]

I don't know if it's the "best" or "most universal" way, but I use standard CD-Rs, the kind you buy at Office Despot. Works fine in my computers, CD players, and car stereo.

 

[Pano]

Yeah, me too.

 

[mk57]

me three

 

[otto88]

Thanks guys - and to put multiple albums onto one disc, what DVD format might work in CD players - eg DVD-Audio??

I would be taking my music to a friend's event, and want a format I can rely on working

 

[sgrossklass]

Thanks guys - and to put multiple albums onto one disc, what DVD format might work in CD players - eg DVD-Audio??

None. No BR either.

I would be taking my music to a friend's event, and want a format I can rely on working

Then you can only rely on redbook, i.e. audio CD. Modern CD players tend to support MP3 CDs, but it's not a given.

And by all means use quality CD-R, like Taiyo Yudens.

You can also use a USB stick in case there's a computer around. Or bring a portable MP3 player (+ adapters).

 

[otto88]

Thanks sgrossklass

A USB stick might be good. What is BR?

 

[stratus46]

Thanks sgrossklass

A USB stick might be good. What is BR?

BluRay. You should look into a burner for archiving. 25GB of bulk storage for <$1 US. Burners <$100 US

G²

 

[otto88]

Yes, i should also get a BR burner for archiving, thanks!

 

[Zero Cool]

I like Mitsumi CD-R's better than the Taiyo Yudens. have had better luck with them holding up over time!

 

[otto88]

I like Mitsumi CD-R's better than the Taiyo Yudens. have had better luck with them holding up over time!

Over time, what sort of problems can develop?

 

[lcsaszar]

Factory stamped CDs use aluminium reflective layer, but burned CDs use organic layer. Organic compounds are less stable and will decomposite over time.

Also the RF signal (eye pattern amplitude) from a CD-R is much less than from a factory CD. Even there are differences between aluminium and gold layers, the latter being very rare.

The other issue is that the Red Book defined audio CD is 74 min, but you can't purchase 74 min CD-Rs nowadays. This could be an issue with first generation players.

And my personal opinion is that more recent stuff is generally inferior to old stuff.

 

[otto88]

Thanks oshifis

Apparently Kodak Gold were the best, but are no longer made . .

I will try Kodak's current CD-Rs

 

[lduarte1973]

i´ve used Memorex cd´rs for 10 years now without problems on computer,cd players (arcam,sony,cambridge audio) , car even dvd players.

 

[Gobble]

Factory stamped CDs use aluminium reflective layer, but burned CDs use organic layer. Organic compounds are less stable and will decomposite over time.

Also the RF signal (eye pattern amplitude) from a CD-R is much less than from a factory CD. Even there are differences between aluminium and gold layers, the latter being very rare.
.

I have purchased many gold layered CD-Rs but heard nothing unusual or remarkable about them. They are made in India by a company called Moser Baer which is OEM to many brands.

I hear very good results with Verbatim AZO CD-Rs though. i.e to say - record the same album on a AZO and non-AZO CD and the AZO will sound better. You will not be disappointed with these.

--G0bble

 

[lcsaszar]

I found some interesting information here:

CD-Recordable FAQ - section 7

 

[lduarte1973]

I found some interesting information here:

CD-Recordable FAQ - section 7

good article , i agree with TKD being the best around , more expensive than memorex though.

 

[benb]

or simply to copy backup CDs ~ I'd think that the answer is the same . .

CD-ROM drives on any computer you're likely to use almost surely have better read performance than older CD players, so I don't see it as critical for data (except that data should be backed up in several media - flash drives and portable hard drives as well).

Of course a CD-R for playing music isn't a backup, it's an "end product."

I don't know if it's the "best" or "most universal" way, but I use standard CD-Rs, the kind you buy at Office Despot. Works fine in my computers, CD players, and car stereo.

It depends - my car stereo doesn't even play regular aluminum CD's anymore. Maybe it's time for a new car.

good article , i agree with TKD being the best around , more expensive than memorex though.

I used to do this (burn low-run CD-R's for things like LP transcriptions) about ten years ago, back when CD-R's and drives went down to 1x write speed. The lower speed write of course takes longer, but is (was) much more likely to make a CD-R playable on first-generation players. I have a Multitech CD player I haven't even plugged in in years that was "good" for testing marginal CD-R's on, it probably needs new electrolytics by now.

Try different speeds on your burner, see which burn plays back best on a first-generation player. Look at the error signals with a scope, if you can find them, or even the eye pattern of the signal directly from the pickup. This probably needs to be done in conjunction with different brands of CD-R's as well, so it can become a science project involving tests of hundreds of CD-R recordings, each brand at each burn speed.With all that effort, it deserves a web-page writeup. There should have been someone doing this every year for the last decade or so.

The "good news" is CD's are dying, and more and more people have devices that can play music from a thumb drive filled with mp3's or even .wav or FLAC files.

 

[Pano]

Every DVD player I've seen will play MP3 and most will do WAV and WM as well.
Don't remember seeing MP3 playback on a CD player, but haven't looked.

Also, FWIW. CD-R brands like Memorex and various others buy from whomever. It's hard to know who made them. Actually a big pastime for some figuring out who made the latest crop of cheap CD-Rs. You can luck into some good deals.